1. Win a Broadcaster or one of 3 Teles! The annual Supporting Member Giveaway is on. To enter Click Here. To see all the prizes and full details Click Here. To view the thread about the giveaway Click Here.

nosmo's 2012 Challenge Build Thread -- COMPLETED

Discussion in '2012 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by nosmo, Mar 14, 2012.

  1. tklaavo

    tklaavo Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    503
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2011
    Location:
    Finland
    I like that you took a picture in the situation.. I would have been running in panic for a bucket of water.. :)
    I've had that happen in a pile of wood chips when routing with a cheap bit. It's frightening, could start a major fire.
     
  2. kwerk

    kwerk Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    5,125
    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2010
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Wow, this is looking fantastic! I can't wait to see where it goes from here!
     
  3. Ryden

    Ryden Tele-Meister

    Age:
    47
    Posts:
    423
    Joined:
    May 7, 2008
    Location:
    Sweden
    Don't forget to post here once a week or you'll be disqualified! If you can't (altough i hear that they have internet on Mt Everest too nowadays) ask for exemption. I'd be real sorry see this build dropped.
     
  4. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Muzikp - You're close I operate ROVs in the oil field.

    Obviously posting should not be a problem but you never know.

    I do have a bunch of pictures from Friday morning that I'll put up as soon as I can. The problem with a 'real job' is you have to do stuff sometimes.
     
  5. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Thanks kwerk
     
  6. devo_stevo

    devo_stevo Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    127
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2011
    Location:
    Brigham City, Utah
    Well, that's a real bummer that you won't be around for three weeks. I understand the work thing though. I've been working 45-50 hours a week lately on a project and building a guitar and spending time with my wife and four kids and traing for a 200 mile bike race coming up in September and.....etc.

    Life's busy. Don't forget to finish this when you get back though. You're doing great so far and it looks like you have a pretty darn good idea of what you are doing and what the end goal is.
     
  7. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    200 mile bike race?:eek: I get winded walking to my truck!

    By the way, your guitar is looking good.
     
  8. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    So......I marked the positions for the fret slots Thursday night.

    [​IMG]
    There sure are alot of numbers, I mean can you even SEE .001"?

    Anyway, once I had that laid out, and drank some Jamison's to clear my head, I gave up for the night.

    Friday, bright & early (about 10:30) I cut the slots.
    [​IMG]

    Then I built a jig.
    [​IMG]

    I want a compound radius (I know, you can't have a compound radius, you can have a different radius on each end of the fingerboard, and that's what Warmoth calls it) something like 12" & 16".

    So I made these ends for the jig.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I had to make something for the ends to ride on, so I used a bit of Delrin type stuff I had and some little rollers from HD. See the slots in the ends of the jig? I tried pins kind of like the neck contour jig I've seen here, but that didn't work. Had something to do with geometry I think. So this is phase 2.
    [​IMG]

    Then I mounted a test piece of pine.
    [​IMG]

    Used a little anti-idiot tape so I wouldn't hit the screws (I don't really like 2 sided tape. I know lots of people use it and it works great for them, but I don't trust it) I do like the blue tape though.
    [​IMG]

    And gave it a shot. Yep, I think this might work.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    7,770
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2011
    Location:
    Oklamerica
    Bummer that you'll be out of it for a few weeks, but please keep it going so we can watch you finish when you get back.

    By the way, I really like your radius jig. I've been working on one that operates on the same principle (end plates that can be different radii), but it's not working all that great. I may have to steal some of your design to improve what I've done.
     
  10. tklaavo

    tklaavo Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    503
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2011
    Location:
    Finland
    Nice jig! I have also built a compound radius jig around the table router, and it is so crude compared to yours... I'm going to show it sooner or later in my thread.
     
  11. Michael Terry

    Michael Terry Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    148
    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2011
    Location:
    Portland, Oregon
    I am so subscribed, i cant believe this is a first build
     
  12. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Roger - Help yourself. The end plates are removable so you can make them whatever radius you want. The bigger the difference in the radii, radiusses, whatever, the more the carrier rolls in an arc, if you know what I mean, It actually travels farther on the 16" end than it does on the 12" end. You can see in the pictures I had to knock the stops out a little on the 16" end so it would travel far enough on the 12" end to get the whole 2 1/2" FB. I think its more of that stupid geometry stuff.

    tklaavo - I'd like to see your jig. I'm sure I could steal some improvements from it.
     
  13. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Thank you Mike. Can I call you Mike?
     
  14. Muzikp

    Muzikp Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,273
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2010
    Location:
    Sacramento
    ROV :confused:

    Ridgid Orbiting Vulcanizer
    Rapid Oblong Vehicle
    Robust Overweight Vortexer
    Rusty Oldsmobile Valve
    Remnants Of Volkswagens

    I give up.
     
  15. emoney

    emoney Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,000
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2012
    Location:
    Hudson Beach, Florida
    Roaster Of Venison..............duh
     
  16. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    I knew somebody would ask.

    This is an ROV.
    [​IMG]

    Remotely Operated Vehicle. 3000 volts & salt water, not the best combination if you think about it.
     
  17. jstream

    jstream Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    569
    Joined:
    Nov 11, 2011
    Location:
    Milwaukee, WI
    call me slow (and I am) but I don't see how that jig works. If you get the time, could you expand? I can wait till after the challenge if necessary.
     
  18. Picton

    Picton Friend of Leo's

    Age:
    45
    Posts:
    2,666
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2009
    Location:
    Reading, Massachusetts
    Excellent fix on that boneheaded truss rod mistake. Even better than the repair is the message on the painter's tape.

    We'll miss you, and DO make sure you post; I don't want you disqualified. Your build is just too nice.
     
  19. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

    Posts:
    7,770
    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2011
    Location:
    Oklamerica
    This is sitting upside down in this pic. The little wheels that you see actually ride on the end piece in the pic below. A router sits on the top with the bit protruding through the slot that you see. While the sled rides on the end plates, the bit shapes the fretboard.

     
  20. nosmo

    nosmo Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    4,576
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Location:
    Lake Jackson, TX
    Thanks Picton, I have internet so I should be OK. I still have some pic of things I did before I left home.

    The jig has two parts. Lets just call them the base and the carrier. The base has a slot down the middle, I think it is 1 1/4" wide, but its not that important as long as the collet on the router won't hit it. There is a guide (scrap MDF with a straight edge) screwed to the router table on both sides of the base to keep it centered on the router. The base has to be able to slide along its long axis. At the ends of the base I used two small plastic rollers that the carrier end plates ride on.

    The carrier has end plates that can be different radii. The picture of the pine test piece mounted shows the bottom of the carrier prett well. Once the fingerboard is mounted, you lower the carrier onto the base between the ends. It should roll on the rollers pretty smothly. It can twist some so you have to make sure it stays in contact with the rollers. When you try this (practice run with the router off, or better yet off the router) you will find that the end plates can go past the rollers and drop the carrier/FB onto the violenly spinning router bit. This would be bad - so I put some stops on the edges of the end plates. After another test run I found that the bigger radius end would roll farther than the smaller. So I knocked the stops out a little. I also put some anti-idiot blue tape to mark the end of travel in both directions so some idiot would not run the screws that mount the FB blank into the bit. It would be better to put hard stops at the ends, but you need a pretty long router table for that.

    OK - it's built and now you want to shape a fingerboard. I found it was best to have the base at one end and roll the carrier all the way to one side (away from me) so the bit would not hit it when I started the router. Power on, roll the carrier until you hear the bit start to take off some wood, then slide the base to the other end. Then you can either roll the carrier a little more and slide the base back or you can roll the carrier so its not cutting, slide everything back and make all the cutting passes from the same end. Does that make since? I found it was better to make all the cuts from one end (I think right to left).

    You could also try to roll the entire radius across the bit, move the base and roll the carrier again until you got to the other end, but when I tried that it left alot of cut marks and was not nearly as smooth.

    Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure:

    Lay out the end plates & cut them
    [​IMG]

    Sand them smooth
    [​IMG]

    Here's a test cut across the radius - see the tool marks? If you do the whole FB across like that you'll have a bunch. You can also see the mounting screw that you don't want to hit with the bit. That pass was at my end of travel.
    [​IMG]

    This is a better view of the whole thing (I was saving this one for later but what the heck)
    [​IMG]
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.