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Non-yellowing Clear Coat suggestions?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by built4speed, Nov 10, 2015.

  1. built4speed

    built4speed Tele-Meister

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    Can anyone suggest a non-yellowing clear coat that will work for a guitar finish? I'm currently trying to clear a flame maple topped body that's been dyed blue, but anything I try (Tru-oil, lacquer, wipe-on poly) is causing yellowing on the lighter grain, causing the lighter sections of grain to look green. I'm hoping to stick with blue, but if I can't find a solution, I may have to pick a different color.

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Clear poly stays clear and doesn't yellow over time....

    I just did a few bodies with this stuff... goes good....:)
     

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  3. nofrets

    nofrets Tele-Meister

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  4. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    Most acrylic Lacquers will do it for ya...

    Ron Kirn
     
  5. Cat MacKinnon

    Cat MacKinnon Friend of Leo's

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    Ron, have you found an acrylic lacquer clear that dries pretty hard? The PerfectMatch clear has a craptastic track record, but have you had better luck with any of the other off the shelf stuff?
     
  6. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    I use Sherwin Williams when acrylic, or it's characteristics are required... It does fine, however it does take longer to cure adequately than nitro does...

    the only place I would suggest it is over a brilliant white ya want preserved, or over any pale blues, such as Sonic, or Daphne... the faint amber hue of Nitro causes those to "go greenish"..

    If you're spraying over a "warm" tone... then the nitro is a better call in my opinion..

    rk
     
  7. built4speed

    built4speed Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for the suggestions all. The Sherwin Williams acrylic sounds promising, but it doesn't appear to be widely available here in Canada. I'll try source some locally available acrylic or water based poly.
     
  8. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    Check with local Custom Kitchen cabinet makers.... they all use professional suppliers for their chemical coatings, that's what the "pros" call the paints they use....

    They can direct you to their suppliers.... visit 'em... most of the guys working there wanna be Jeff Beck too... so you will have a common ground....

    Tell 'em what ya wanna do... and bingo, you will have access to professional advice that doesn't have a "dog in the hunt" as to a lot of useless conjecture about different paints and how they impact anything relative to a guitar.. that alone makes the trip worth it...

    as an alternative, automotive finishing supply shops will also have similar Guitar info hungry employees... however they may or may not have acrylic clears, they will have polys that are water clear and damn near impervious to anything short of an IED...

    rk
     
  9. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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  10. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity

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    ya gotta remember... almost all coatings will yellow to some degree as time passes... it has more to do with the bunk in the air than anything else.... but the UV light is a heavy hitter too...

    also, not only does the finish turn yellow/amber, the wood does too... so if it's a clear finish over natural wood, you have no chance of avoiding it..

    Some finishes have a UV inhibitor in 'em, but that's not perfect, specially over wood. . . over the steel in the fender of your '71 Plymouth Fury sure... but over Ash.. no chance . . . the wood's gonna yellow despite anything you do..

    the best at resisting are automotive polys... but they're gonna be costly... expect 100 bux and up, to buy the finish, the hardener and the thinners necessary... and get the stuff out of your guns as soon as you're through... If the goop cures in the gun... be sure ya did it to a pair of 'em, so you can screw 'em to a board and make bookends, 'cause that's all they will be good for thereafter...

    Oh... and ANY rattle can Polyurethane is nothing like the polys used by Fender.... I mean, the Lacquers they use are more like those used in the 50's than the rattle can Polys are like those used on modern production lines...

    that's not a diss of the production polys, they are superb.. it's a diss of the rattle can cra*... I wouldn't use that stuff to kill a roach . . it would be an insult to the roach's family. :eek:

    Oh.. Note to the granny dress wearing Birkenstock shod...... Roaches are not an endangered species in Florida... killin' 'em with extra rattle cans of whatever's within reach is a pleasant way to spend a late evening during a shower as they skedattle looking for high ground... Psssstttt... got ya .. ya little pesky, nasty, sob... I specially like watchin' 'em try to figure out how to escape a shot of 3M-77..

    Ron Kirn
     
  11. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Target Coatings Super Clear SC9000 is a waterborne lacquer that is as clear as it gets, no color shift when covering artwork or colored undercoats like your application. It's very hard stuff, more difficult to sand than the other coatings, but i'd recommend it for this applicaiton. In case the resin ingredient matters to you, SC9000 contains polyurethane resins and is water-clear whereas their EM6000 has acrylic and has a "straw" color to it, and WVX is amber.
     
  12. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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    I agree with all of that but you can buy a quart kit of 2k automotive urethane for between $30 and $40 bucks, that is enough for about 3 instruments ;)
    I also (like Ron) don't recommend the use of polyurethanes sold at home depot, lowes, walmart etc. Those are nothing like the ones used by fender, PRS, music man, ESP, and all of them.
     
  13. AlterEgo

    AlterEgo Tele-Meister

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    I am in the minority and by all means Ron is THE source for the best information on all things guitar including finishes but as a guy who has to spray inside I'm limited to water based finishes so my house doesn't catch fire. I use varathane water based gloss floor finish. It's crystal clear, is ready to sand/buff after 12 hours and after about a week is pretty darn tough without a plastic feel and look. I've found it to be much harder than general finishes and target coatings products. Because it is so clear it can tend to look a little sterile on natural wood so when doing a natural finish I spray a couple coats of shellac first to warm up the look and pop the grain but then top with varathane. If you have a ventilated, solvent safe area then by all means go with the other suggestions here but if you don't, varathane is a worthwhile consideration and has been my go to finish for over a year now with great results. Just my $.02
     
  14. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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    Varathane is great but it does yellow a little bit.
     
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