No-truss rod neck construction

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by epizootics, Sep 24, 2019.

  1. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Just curious how much relief you have and what your action is.
     
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  2. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I've got an unfinished 24" scale neck blank here, hardwood...

    I'm tempted to make this one without a TR and put the frets straight into it .... a real one piecer..

    would a 24" scale neck be less likely to bow without a TR?....

    24 neck1.jpg


    24 neck2.jpg


    24 neck4.jpg
     
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  3. epizootics

    epizootics Tele-Meister

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    Cool beans! Any idea what the wood in question could be? As always, I'm lost when it comes to identifying Ozzie timber.

    In my book, a 24" scale neck is less likely to misbehave under tension from the strings than a longer scale neck, with or without a truss rod, because (1) it takes less tension to tune your strings to a given pitch (which can however be nullified by using a heavier string gauge, like many people like to do with shorties) and (2) because the same bow would leave the nut closer to the plane defined by the top of the guitar on a shortie since the arc would be shorter. Also, for a given neck pocket length, the neck-pocket-to-overall-neck-length ratio increases if you make the neck shorter, and because the neck heel is usually thicker - and screwed down against the body - it is the part of the neck that is least likely to bend.

    ...at least that's my rationalization (and partly why I went for a short scale on this build), but I might be overlooking a bunch of factors :)

    A true one piece neck is more likely to bend under string tension than one with a glued-on fretboard, but if your wood is well-seasoned (which seems to be the case here - it looks like reclaimed wood from interior construction?) and hard enough, and if you don't profile it too thin...I'd say you'll be fine!


    By the way, the neck from this particular build still hasn't moved one bit in spite of the big changes in temperature and humidity our flat goes through in the winter & spring.
     
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  4. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    It's a piece of old building hardwood, probably a dressed stud... a Eucalyptus of some sort, spotted gum maybe?... nothing exotic...it seemed nice and straight, not too heavy...

    I usually buy necks for builds... this will be my first carve when I put my mind to it.... I'll have to size it and radius the top and will need a jig of some sort to curve it... hard stuff this, it would be a hard sand to radius it....and cut fret slots..

    here's the back...

    24 neck3.jpg
     
  5. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    ..or go and get one of my old twisted necks and steam the board off... that might be another way to go..
     
  6. epizootics

    epizootics Tele-Meister

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    I use a set of 6" long radiusing cauls a friend CNC'd for me a while back, but can be find for really cheap on eBay...No matter how hard the wood, if you start with good quality 60- or 80-grit sandpaper, you'll be done much quicker than you think. I like the shorter cauls because they give me the option of adding relief in the middle of the neck prior to fretting.

    Necks are nowhere near as bad as they seem. However, you may want to go with a truss rod for your first one - it gives you more options down the line if something goes wrong. This being said, and looking at the Janka hardness for spotted gum, you'd probably be fine without a TR.
     
  7. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I'll need to remove 5mm off the top.... routing it off in a radius jig will help remove that material bit by bit to get the thickness right...

    or flat plane it more and put a rw board on....
     
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