NGD: Guild Starfire I SC

  • Thread starter WalATX
  • Start date
  • This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links like Ebay, Amazon, and others.

WalATX

Tele-Meister
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
195
Location
Illinois
Never go into a guitar shop with money. :D Or do. Life is short.

I visited my local (two) favorite guitar shops yesterday planning to look at a G&L Tribute Fallout (which I did, and which is lovely, and which I will have soon enough) and thought I was safe just looking at that one guitar. I have my semi-hollow needs covered by an Epiphone Sheraton II Pro, I don't need another semi-hollow. And that Sheraton beat out a Gretsch G5622 (Electromatic)... primarily due to the neck dive of the Gretsch. But anyway. I don't need another guitar. I don't. I certainly don't need that Guild Starfire I SC that plays really nice and sounds like a dream. Definitely not.


So anyway, I bought it. Photos attached.

This guitar solves a lot of my niggling issues with the Epiphone and the Gretsch. It is MUCH lighter than my Sheraton and is nearly perfectly balanced on a strap -- far less shoulder fatigue here. The neck is more stable than my Sheraton, and thus it stays in tune longer. The functional "guitar" parts of the guitar feel better made... it resonates like an acoustic and has better sustain. It's got some projection to it, even when unplugged.

Sound-wise this falls somewhere between the mellow vibe of a Sheraton and the spanky brightness of a Gretsch. Unfortunately it doesn't do the thick PAF thing the Sheraton does despite having humbuckers, but I'm not disappointed in the sound. It's clean as a whistle, articulate and chimey without being ice-picky, very pristine and forward. Reedy but not thin or edgy. I imagine rolling off the tone controls could get some warmth to simulate that dark Sheraton neck pup. Guild has a really good demo video up on Youtube featuring RJ Ronquillo on this guitar and its double-cut cousin if you are curious.

So here's the first complaint - the tone pots. Apparently they use linear instead of audio taper, so they do nothing until they're nearly off. That's an easy and cheap fix (for me, since I can solder), but it makes me wonder who keeps authorizing linear taper tone pots? Honestly. It's not even a cost saving, it's just bad design. I have linear tone pots in so many guitars and they are all useless.

The second complaint is that, on my instrument, the fit and finish is not great. It is probably average for a $400-$500 guitar. It is not up to Sheraton/Electromatic standards. That said, those guitars cost more, so they ought to be finished better, I suppose. Anyway, I took a needle file to some rough edges inside the F-holes, oiled the fretboard, put some 10s on (comes with 11s!), and touched up some roughness on the binding along the neck. The frets themselves were finished properly, and everything else I noticed being off is just cosmetic.

The single-coil splits are a nifty feature, and using both pups in middle position with the neck in single coil sounds different and good. But I don't see myself using the single coil feature as a stand-alone sound.

By far the best thing about this guitar is the playability and the unique sound. So I'm willing to overlook a few small issues - it is snappy, it feels more solid while playing than the Sheraton despite being much lighter, and is gig-able on a strap (the lack of which killed the Gretsch for me). What's not to like?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0013.jpg
    IMG_0013.jpg
    132.7 KB · Views: 140
  • IMG_0015.jpg
    IMG_0015.jpg
    174.5 KB · Views: 129
  • IMG_0017.jpg
    IMG_0017.jpg
    139.3 KB · Views: 127

mixmkr 2024

Tele-Afflicted
Joined
Dec 23, 2022
Posts
1,704
Location
kentucky
I've got a 67 Starfire III that I've had for 45 years now. Love the guitar but high fret access isn't there....but I guess you're out of bounds shredding past the 15th fret on those guitars. Was my main guitar all thru my 4 years of music school. Bought it a a music shop in Cambridge Mass for $100 back then. Nice pups..but alas, I'm still a rocker at heart.
 

backporchmusic

Poster Extraordinaire
Joined
Nov 28, 2006
Posts
6,357
Location
USA
Looks great! I have the blue DC version with the Bigsby. I swapped out the tuners for a tighter, higher ratio pair, and put a new bridge on it with more mass and no wire. It's solid, sounds good and stays in tune well. They are a great buy.
 

WalATX

Tele-Meister
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
195
Location
Illinois
I've got a 67 Starfire III that I've had for 45 years now.
I wasn’t aware of Guild’s history in electric guitars until I bought this one… literally ignorant of the hype, just bought it because it plays very nicely. So I’m happy to hear there’s some history there. That’s so cool to me you still have your original.

Looks great! I have the blue DC version with the Bigsby… put a new bridge on it with more mass and no wire.
What does a higher mass bridge do to the tone?

It’s very fortunate (imho) these guitars use standard Gibson/Epiphone sized hardware and pickups so you can swap things out and not worry about fit.
 

bender66

Poster Extraordinaire
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Posts
9,249
Location
on my bike
It’s very fortunate (imho) these guitars use standard Gibson/Epiphone sized hardware and pickups so you can swap things out and not worry about fit.
Perhaps, but I'd have wished for you that it had the original Guild humbuckers that are desirable.

Love the guitar regardless. Nice score.
 

WalATX

Tele-Meister
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
195
Location
Illinois
Perhaps, but I'd have wished for you that it had the original Guild humbuckers that are desirable.
True. My understanding (from a surface review) is that the HB-2 pups in this guitar are “based on” the original HB-1, put into a standardized humbucker case… is that just marketing bs?

I need to do some research, eh.
 

WalATX

Tele-Meister
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
195
Location
Illinois
Found a great thread on this for anyone looking for more info:

 

Donny Osmond fan

Tele-Afflicted
Joined
May 6, 2018
Posts
1,749
Age
50
Location
Uknown.
Never go into a guitar shop with money. :D Or do. Life is short.

I visited my local (two) favorite guitar shops yesterday planning to look at a G&L Tribute Fallout (which I did, and which is lovely, and which I will have soon enough) and thought I was safe just looking at that one guitar. I have my semi-hollow needs covered by an Epiphone Sheraton II Pro, I don't need another semi-hollow. And that Sheraton beat out a Gretsch G5622 (Electromatic)... primarily due to the neck dive of the Gretsch. But anyway. I don't need another guitar. I don't. I certainly don't need that Guild Starfire I SC that plays really nice and sounds like a dream. Definitely not.


So anyway, I bought it. Photos attached.

This guitar solves a lot of my niggling issues with the Epiphone and the Gretsch. It is MUCH lighter than my Sheraton and is nearly perfectly balanced on a strap -- far less shoulder fatigue here. The neck is more stable than my Sheraton, and thus it stays in tune longer. The functional "guitar" parts of the guitar feel better made... it resonates like an acoustic and has better sustain. It's got some projection to it, even when unplugged.

Sound-wise this falls somewhere between the mellow vibe of a Sheraton and the spanky brightness of a Gretsch. Unfortunately it doesn't do the thick PAF thing the Sheraton does despite having humbuckers, but I'm not disappointed in the sound. It's clean as a whistle, articulate and chimey without being ice-picky, very pristine and forward. Reedy but not thin or edgy. I imagine rolling off the tone controls could get some warmth to simulate that dark Sheraton neck pup. Guild has a really good demo video up on Youtube featuring RJ Ronquillo on this guitar and its double-cut cousin if you are curious.

So here's the first complaint - the tone pots. Apparently they use linear instead of audio taper, so they do nothing until they're nearly off. That's an easy and cheap fix (for me, since I can solder), but it makes me wonder who keeps authorizing linear taper tone pots? Honestly. It's not even a cost saving, it's just bad design. I have linear tone pots in so many guitars and they are all useless.

The second complaint is that, on my instrument, the fit and finish is not great. It is probably average for a $400-$500 guitar. It is not up to Sheraton/Electromatic standards. That said, those guitars cost more, so they ought to be finished better, I suppose. Anyway, I took a needle file to some rough edges inside the F-holes, oiled the fretboard, put some 10s on (comes with 11s!), and touched up some roughness on the binding along the neck. The frets themselves were finished properly, and everything else I noticed being off is just cosmetic.

The single-coil splits are a nifty feature, and using both pups in middle position with the neck in single coil sounds different and good. But I don't see myself using the single coil feature as a stand-alone sound.

By far the best thing about this guitar is the playability and the unique sound. So I'm willing to overlook a few small issues - it is snappy, it feels more solid while playing than the Sheraton despite being much lighter, and is gig-able on a strap (the lack of which killed the Gretsch for me). What's not to like?
Maybe it was made like the old Guilds? Or Guild wanted it that way and Samick made it that way for Guild? We all like different things.
 

schmee

Telefied
Ad Free Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2003
Posts
31,222
Location
northwest
Never go into a guitar shop with money. :D Or do. Life is short.

So here's the first complaint - the tone pots. Apparently they use linear instead of audio taper, so they do nothing until they're nearly off. That's an easy and cheap fix (for me, since I can solder), but it makes me wonder who keeps authorizing linear taper tone pots? Honestly. It's not even a cost saving, it's just bad design. I have linear tone pots in so many guitars and they are all useless.

The second complaint is that, on my instrument, the fit and finish is not great. It is probably average for a $400-$500 guitar. It is not up to Sheraton/Electromatic standards. That said, those guitars cost more, so they ought to be finished better, I suppose. Anyway, I took a needle file to some rough edges inside the F-holes, oiled the fretboard, put some 10s on (comes with 11s!), and touched up some roughness on the binding along the neck. The frets themselves were finished properly, and everything else I noticed being off is just cosmetic.

The single-coil splits are a nifty feature, and using both pups in middle position with the neck in single coil sounds different and good. But I don't see myself using the single coil feature as a stand-alone sound.

By far the best thing about this guitar is the playability and the unique sound. So I'm willing to overlook a few small issues - it is snappy, it feels more solid while playing than the Sheraton despite being much lighter, and is gig-able on a strap (the lack of which killed the Gretsch for me). What's not to like?
Something to think about:
There's actually more to it than linear vs audio. So that may or may not be the issue.
The wiring scheme can make a difference. "Modern" vs "50's" effects the tone shaping as you roll down. Not sure what they use. Best to Google this as it's confusing to me and long winded.
Also,
Cap values depend on what kind of tone you want, the smaller the number the less highs it rolls off as you turn the tone knob from 10 to 1. But the larger the value, the more quickly the tone changes.
An .047 will roll off the highs much earlier than a .022, a lot of guys on humbuckers use a .015 or .01 on their neck pup so they can roll the tone back and it doesn`t turn to mud. It all depends on what sound you the user wants, guitar companies just stick with the standard rule of thumb when sending out the door.

Some use .015, even with single coils. - the highs that are reduced when engaged are only of the highest frequencies. So, a .015 cap may reduce the top 5% of highs, a .022 cap may reduce the top 7% of highs, and a .047uF cap may reduce the top 10% of highs. With a higher cap, you reduce a larger frequency range of highs.

With the .015uF cap the very highest treble frequencies are reduced, not a large range of high frequencies are cut.
 

Telenator

Doctor of Teleocity
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Posts
16,577
Location
Vermont
Nice!
I have owned a few Guilds and they were fine guitars.
For better or worse, I always installed the missing inlays on frets 17 and 19. It always bugged me that Guild leaves those out.
 

WalATX

Tele-Meister
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
195
Location
Illinois
"Modern" vs "50's" effects the tone shaping as you roll down. Not sure what they use. Best to Google this as it's confusing to me and long winded.
I see you're also a connoisseur of overly complex Google searches :p

I had not considered Modern vs 50s wiring before; I will look that up...

Regardless, the tone knobs still don't do much (audibly) until about 2-1 on the knob. A waste of 80% of the sweep if you ask me. But a minor complaint.
 

schmee

Telefied
Ad Free Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2003
Posts
31,222
Location
northwest
I see you're also a connoisseur of overly complex Google searches :p

I had not considered Modern vs 50s wiring before; I will look that up...

Regardless, the tone knobs still don't do much (audibly) until about 2-1 on the knob. A waste of 80% of the sweep if you ask me. But a minor complaint.
Yeah, I hate it when the tone pot is just a jump from bright to muffled like a switch! But which Cap and Volume pot can have a lot to do with it also. Volume pots can effect the tone pot.
 

Blrfl

Friend of Leo's
Joined
May 3, 2018
Posts
3,976
Location
Northern Virginia
So here's the first complaint - the tone pots.

I have the legendary bad news and good news. The bad news is that if Guild is used the same pots and switches in your guitar as my SF-V, you're going to be pulling them out eventually. On mine, the switch has failed (the contacts that enable the neck pickup only work about 25% of the time) and the pots have gone through periods of being scratchy, although making sure to exercise them regularly has kept that at bay. The good news is that, since you're doing that fishing expedition, you'll be able replace them with whatever you want.

The second complaint is that, on my instrument, the fit and finish is not great. It is probably average for a $400-$500 guitar. It is not up to Sheraton/Electromatic standards. That said, those guitars cost more, so they ought to be finished better, I suppose.

That must be a price-tier thing. My SF-V was about $1,100 in 2018 and, except for the electronics, the build is exquisite and it's a joy to play.
 

WalATX

Tele-Meister
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
195
Location
Illinois
That must be a price-tier thing. My SF-V was about $1,100 in 2018 and, except for the electronics, the build is exquisite and it's a joy to play.
Absolutely, I’m not surprised at the detail of the fit and finish being a little “unfinished,” probably seems about right for the price. Luckily the guitar as an instrument is fantastic…
 

glenlivet

Friend of Leo's
Joined
Nov 7, 2018
Posts
2,259
Location
Marco.......Polo......
yea.... Wiring / POT choices in the new Guilds is pretty bad.
I have the Seafoam Green version of yours, and at some point will probably rewire the whole thing.


But congrats! I love my Guilds.
 

WalATX

Tele-Meister
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Posts
195
Location
Illinois
I have the Seafoam Green version of yours, and at some point will probably rewire the whole thing.

Thanks for the link. Loved the seafoam green and particularly the white as well, but wanted the standard bridge rather than the Guildsby.

I think this is an example of a guitar being greater than the sum of its parts…
 
Top