NGD: Classic Series '72 Telecaster Thinline

[bluesholyman]

About 6 months ago I acquired a Squire Vintage Modified '72 Thinline and sold that to get this and keep the wife happy. I managed to score it at half price of new (this is a 2021 although they are now discontinued) as it has a glaring piece of damage on the lower bout where the arm rests - I don't even notice it when playing, but for the discount I managed, I will deal with it. Other than that, it plays wonderfully - one of the main reasons I got it - feels every bit worth full price new, but a steal with the discount.

The pickups are "mild" compared to the ones in the VM tele which were quite aggressive. I initially thought they were the same pickups (in both), but the VM apparently has Fender Designed pickups and are built most likely by the cheapest overseas factory that meets Fenders specs. So that difference surprised me. These WRHB are "nicer" for lack of better word and actually remind me of the Powertron/Supertron set I have in a USA Fender Ash Thinline - the guitars sound remarkably similar at first comparison.

My thin line herd remains at 3 and I am very happy with this acquisition. Need to do setup, new strings, pickup adjustments, etc., although its quite close to how I want it.

As for that damage, my wife has been having me help her with a large polyurethane pour on a desk she is refinishing. I have her supplies and a really good idea how to fix that, although the missing chunk of wood will require some thought and creativity. Not in a rush there though - it may just become an arm contour.

 

[Boreas]

Nice find!

Gonna be hard to make that nick go away! With that much meat gone in that area, I think I would take a sander to it and make a nice bevel for arm comfort. But be careful as that lesion may be all the way through the top where it joins the side - into the glue joint. Don't overdo it. That being said, I have filled some pretty big divots with clear epoxy, if you want to stay with the rough look without getting splinters!

I have been more than happy with the WRHBs on my Squier VM 72 Thinline. But I also threw a Bigsby on it, so there's that. That can alter the tone a lot. What pot values are in your new one? Perhaps that is the difference in tone. Or simply lower pickup heights?

BTW, these are my resistance readings if you want to compare.

 

[Fendereedo]

Congratulations hngd!

 

[mimmo]

Congratulations!

 

[msalama]

Congrats mate! If I were you, I'd just seal that nick with clear epoxy (or whatever's suitable really) and forget about it. Just play her, because that's what she was made for!

 

[brookdalebill]

Groovy!

 

[bender66]

Nice find!

Gonna be hard to make that nick go away! With that much meat gone in that area, I think I would take a sander to it and make a nice bevel for arm comfort. But be careful as that lesion may be all the way through the top where it joins the side - into the glue joint. Don't overdo it. That being said, I have filled some pretty big divots with clear epoxy, if you want to stay with the rough look without getting splinters!

I have been more than happy with the WRHBs on my Squier VM 72 Thinline. But I also threw a Bigsby on it, so there's that. That can alter the tone a lot. What pot values are in your new one? Perhaps that is the difference in tone. Or simply lower pickup heights?

BTW, these are my resistance readings if you want to compare.

View attachment 1059849

And removed the outer sleeve of the roller bar? Did you use needle bearings there also?

OP-Theres a sale on the cunife WRHB with all that money you saved.

 

[Boreas]

And removed the outer sleeve of the roller bar? Did you use needle bearings there also?

OP-Theres a sale on the cunife WRHB with all that money you saved.

Ball bearings, not needle bearings. So far they haven't worn out!

The pivot arm uses needle bearings - likely because it has to counteract the full tension of the strings, whereas the roller is just deflecting the strings. This is a lot less stress. This is why Bigsby just uses bronze or nylon bushings on the roller. I figgered ball bearings would be good enough.

 

[bender66]

Ball bearings, not needle bearings. So far they haven't worn out!

The pivot arm uses needle bearings - likely because it has to counteract the full tension of the strings, whereas the roller is just deflecting the strings. This is a lot less stress. This is why Bigsby just uses bronze or nylon bushings on the roller. I figgered ball bearings would be good enough.

Sorry. You already told me that. I'd forgotten already. I did order some needle bearings to try them. If not, I'll go the loose ball route.

 

[Boreas]

Sorry. You already told me that. I'd forgotten already. I did order some needle bearings to try them. If not, I'll go the loose ball route.

They should probably work, but the alignment may be a little trickier. The reamer I used bores at a taper. The longer length of the needle bearings may be an issue - tight on one end, loose on the other. You may need to use a drill instead of a reamer.

 

[bluesholyman]

BTW, these are my resistance readings if you want to compare.

Both pickups came in right around 8.5K, 4.3k in the middle. the neck is just a tad hotter than the bridge but its so close its negligible.

 

[marc2211]

Congrats! I had one of these I bought in a local store as it played so so nicely. It really was lovely.

A music stand dropped next to it during practice and made a very minor scratch/dent in the finish… and I stupidly couldn’t live with it, so sold the guitar.

This is one of the very few I regret selling

 

[blue metalflake]

Nice one