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NGD - Cabronita

Discussion in 'Squier Tele Forum' started by xjazzy, Jun 25, 2015.

  1. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    Well, I wasn't planning to buy new guitars but this one was cheap and I'm selling another guitar and an amp so, my wife offered to put what was left to pay for the Cabronita as birthday present.
    I've been wanting a solid body with humbuckers for a while and so I ordered it to try.
    It just landed and I have to say I was not too thrilled about getting a new guitar.
    I've had two other Squiers (CV50's and Custom II) and, although I liked the CV50's, I was never a big fan of the necks.
    This one is no exception: skinny little neck! Well finished but I'm used to the fat neck on my Classic 50's so, this one is a lot thinner.
    It was a B-stock model but all the plastics were in place!
    I've found a little thing on the neck and a little spot near the pickup where the paint seems different! See photos.
    One of the saddles came with a screw all tight up and the other almost totally loose!

    The neck pickup was lower on the neck side than the bridge side so, I took it off to see what was doing that.
    I don't know why they do this but, the pickup cavity is deep and there were 4 springs!
    3 of the springs were on the bottom of the cavity attached to foam and the 4th was on top of one the other 3! As a result, I took the screws that hold the pickup and it didn't move a bit! The springs were doing nothing!
    I took 2 of them and put them on the screws so the pickup now goes up and down like it should when I rotate the screws.
    The pickup seems to stay a little angled to the neck side and I think the holes for the screws were not correctly done.
    Not exactly a problem since I can always adjust the pole pieces to correct height.

    I thought the bridge would be a problem but it doesn't seem to hurt my right hand when I play so, no problem there.

    I'm at work so I haven't plugged it in to hear the sound but, for now I'm thinking I might change the neck for something fatter with a rosewood board in the future.

    I've read about people putting a 500K pot, is that necessary?
    I have a pair of TV Jones on my Gretsch that I might try if I don't bound with the fidelitrons since I don't use the Gretsch much and I'm planing to use the Squier on the road this summer.
     

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  2. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    Well, just played with it a bit.
    Setup was bad.
    Did a little work on the pickups but didn't found a sweet spot yet.
    Bridge pickup lacks body and the neck pickup lacks definition!
    I don't know if the 500k pot would help but I may give the TV Jones a try.
    The neck pickup is a lot more clear than the Fidelitron but the bridge pickup always sounded too muddy in the full hollow Gretsch. It may work better in the solid body!
     
  3. src9000

    src9000 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Very nice. Congrats.
     
  4. emisilly

    emisilly Tele-Afflicted

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    I tweaked the magnet heights on mine for a good bit before I found the sweet spot. I found that even very minor tweaks had a dramatic effect.
     
  5. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    I noticed that too but couldn't find a spot where I like the balance between the two pickups.
    Do you stick to the 250K pot?
     
  6. davenumber2

    davenumber2 Friend of Leo's

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    They will sound better with 500k pots. I would change those out before swapping pickups.
     
  7. emisilly

    emisilly Tele-Afflicted

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    Kept the stock pot. Been thinking about swapping to 500 to make things a tad brighter.
     
  8. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Count me as one of those that voiced issues with that 250k pot. It's a HB. You'll be happier with 500k IMO. At least you'll be able to assess those pickups better.

    I love my Squier Cab.
     
  9. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    This week I'll try the 500k pot and a new neck with rosewood fingerboard.
    I'll report back ;)
     
  10. ukepicker

    ukepicker Tele-Afflicted

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    +1 for the height adjustment and 500k pot. I have that guitar and, after quite a bit of experimenting with heights and pole screws and pots (and a gotoh brass bridge) I got happy with it. The pickup screws on mine had very weak springs and I had to change them for tubing.

    I'm curious about the rosewood neck. I've been thinking about selling my cab lately - mainly because of the sticky neck and board. Let us know how it sounds after the change. I've got a couple of necks with rosewood lying around I might try on it.
     
  11. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    Well, did the 3h band rehearsal on Sunday with it and I liked it!
    Had to change some settings on the pedals but kind of liked the result.
    Noticed in the end that my shoulder hurt a bit. It's definitely a little more weight than my Classic 50's tele.
    The neck should arrive in the next couple of days and I really need to change the strings!

    [​IMG]
     
  12. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Scotchbrite the back of the neck? I did mine as well. I just assumed everyone does this to sticky necks.
     
  13. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    Well, the neck experience did not go so well.
    First it was a really tight fit! So tight I chipped the finish a bit when I took the neck off!
    But the worst was the height. The neck pocket is not deep enough to accommodate the neck.
    Now, should I just shave the excess from the neck or just forget the ideia?
    It's a Squier neck a little beefier than the Cabronita neck and I can keep it for cheap or just return it.
     
  14. ukepicker

    ukepicker Tele-Afflicted

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    Necks always take a little finessing. Seems like there was a thread once about installing a neck. I've found it helps to remove/replace by laying the guitar flat and pulling up (or pushing down). Some necks have a slight bevel to aid in a tight fit.
    The only trouble I've had with neck swaps was angle (needed a shim) and height (needed a really fat, full-length shim for the 22 fret overhang to clear).
    Every new neck requires a setup - truss rod adjustment, action height adjustment and intonation adjustment.
    Do you have a picture of the new neck on?
     
  15. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    Here's some pics of both necks.
    The new neck is around 2mm thicker. It looks a lot when it's in place!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     

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  16. ukepicker

    ukepicker Tele-Afflicted

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    Wow, that is quite a bit thicker. But if the neck will seat against the floor of the neck pocket and against that little wall between the neck pocket and the neck pickup (and it's straight and playable), it should work fine. The strings will be a little further from the body, that's all. I'd take that trade off for nice fat rosewood neck on mine any day.

    If you can't adjust the saddles high enough to make it playable, you'll have to shim the neck. I just did this and - believe me - a little goes a long way. We're talking millimeters and half-millimeters here.

    Here's some really bad advice about shimming that you shouldn't follow: I shimmed my first neck (a 63 silvertone) with 2 coins at the base of the neck pocket. It was perfect and I've left them there (wish I could find some 1963 nickels). On my last shim, I tried dimes and found that it was too drastic. So I used my belt sander to make a tapered shim out of a scrap piece of masonite. It worked like a charm and now the neck sits right and the saddles are at the prefect height and the guitar plays like it feels better about itself :)
    I had that neck off for adjustment about 6 times before I was happy. It was worth it - now it's great and shouldn't need any more adjustments for a long time.

    Something I learned the hard way - be very careful running your neck screws in and out of the neck block. Make sure you have the threads started where they should be when you start tightening - and maple is plenty hard for you to tell if they are started right. If you're not careful, especially with repeated in-and-outs, you can strip the hole and it won't hold a screw anymore (!).

    Good luck and Keep us updated on the progress!
     
  17. ukepicker

    ukepicker Tele-Afflicted

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    Oh - about the pots: Did you try a 500K yet?
    I tried 500K and 1M. The sound of the 1M was fine, but the pot taper meant that I went from quiet to full volume in less than a quarter turn. I settled for the 500k. After amp tweaking, I don't find my neck pickup muddy at all. In fact, I think it's rather articulate. And I love the smooth power of the bridge pickup. Overall, it's a great guitar for not a lot of money.
    The cabronita is one of the greatest iterations of the telecaster.
     
  18. xjazzy

    xjazzy Friend of Leo's

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    Well, I had the neck in place and I did tightned the screws.
    They didn't line up with the holes on the neck but the wood was soft and they slided in too easily!
    I just noticed I was making new holes on the neck after I took the neck out!

    As for the height, I don't want to play with the neck that high! I thought about shaving the back of the neck but I also needed to work on the holes for the tuners since they're too big for the vintage tuners so, I may just forget the thing for now and stay with the stock neck.

    As for the pot, I haven't got it yet!
     
  19. ukepicker

    ukepicker Tele-Afflicted

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    Maybe someone with more knowledge will chime in, but I would think that removing material from the body would be better than removing it from the neck. The finish on these squiers can be really thick - maybe just clearing it down to bare wood would get you close enough that you could shim it and be comfortable.
     
  20. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    You can't get 2mm out of the saddle adjustment? That'd be the first place I'd go before I started removing anything permanent.

    I'd say removing the finish on the neck heel would get you 1mm, maybe 2, but I'd try saddles first.

    ...& plug those old holes on the new neck. You don't want to start mashing wood around. Makes for a unstable neck I'd think.

    How bout some pics?
     
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