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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by bruceruth1988, Jan 25, 2021.
OK then that begs the question what are the 6 holes at the back of the bridge for then?
There are 6 holes on the vertical surface and 6 holes on the horizontal surface.
There are two ways to string a telecaster style guitar - so called "top loader" (the holes in the vertical flange) and "thru body" the holes in the main plate. Thru body requires some little ferrules in the back of the guitar.
There are theoretical (and strongly opinionated) reasons for both, largely having to do how the string tension is anchored into the body. With the top loader approach the strings are trying to rotate the bridge forward lifting its back off the guitar. With the thru body approach the string tension is anchored into the body wood itself and there is more of a downward component at the bridge saddles. Some people feel that the latter approach somehow increases the sustain of the instrument. Other bridges might have the strings anchored to a stop bar tailpiece or floating trapeze tailpiece or the block of a tremolo. The mechanical forces are different for each of them.
(if you are really interested I could go look for the vector diagrams)
With the body and top YOU made I'd do the toploader, no through body holes YMMV
If you want the option for both I just posted this on another thread.
To Freeman's sensible reply, I'd add that not all top loaders are born equal. The location of the string holes can vary a lot from one bridge to another, the can go as far up as the line defined by the three intonation screws, and go as far down as the bottom angle of the stamped plate. This, as well as how far toward the neck the saddles are pushed to intonate correctly & how high they are to accommodate the action, has an impact on the string angle, which in turn changes the tension and feel of the bridge.
On your bridge, those holes seem to be quite high up, which I don't think will be a problem - it'll feel a bit looser than the string-thru option, but unless your son wants a country twanger, which the humbuckers are depart from anyway...you'll be fine.
Looks great, will you be polishing it to a shine/gloss, or leaving it a kind of satin finish?
I will be using Brite tone instrument finish in gloss then polishing(by hand) to a gloss
I haven't logged in to TDPRI in a long while, and needed something fun and inspiring to read. This thread has done the trick. Building a guitar for your kid is awesome. It looks like it is going to come out great. What a great community.
I've been watching this thread since the day it came out, and I totally agree; the community here is great, and I too will be excited about the final product.
Hey just checked back for an update... So, did you finish?
Well it has been a while since I last posted so here are my updates.
My son decided he liked how it looked after wet sanding with 2000 grit so a satin sheen it is.
Looking for a recommendation as to which pots should be volume and which should be tone. Thinking vol on top and tone on bottom but looking for your input.
Are the humbuckers mounted the right direction or does it not matter?
I have the switch set to go side to side. Is that right or should it be up and down?
Here is a pic of the jack.
Which connection should be ground and which should be output?
Here is a pic of the way I have the bridge grounded.
That is a length of shielded cable. I have the inner wire connected to the bridge and the inner wire and the shield soldered to the copper foil.
In this pic you can see the foil in each pickup pocket has the same wire soldered in and then going the copper foil inside the electronics cavity in the next pic.
The soldering does not look good in the pictures but it is just the bad reflection. I have tested continuity from the bridge to the foil in each pocket.
I also have continuity from the bridge to the back of each pot and the ground connection on the switch.
Here is a pic of the electronics box with the pots and switch with nothing connected yet.
Here is the back of the guitar.
As always I deeply appreciate any and all comments.
Hey, Bruce, wondering what happened to you. Guitar is looking good. A few answers to your questions. I would stick with the usual 2V2T configuration because its what people are used to - I don't want to have to fumble around if I want to turn something up or down.
Looking at your first picture - the top two pots are the neck pickup (they are "up" when the player looks at them, the pickup is "up" relative to the strings). On the right in the photo is the volume, left is tone. Same thing for the lower pots - they are bridge ("down"), right is volume, left is tone.
The switch is usually oriented so it goes up and down as you look at the picture, again, up being the neck pickup.
Pickups are usually oriented so the adjustable slugs are away from each other. The bridge is correct, the neck needs to be turne 180 degrees.
I'll just add that this has been a pretty interesting thread. I remember your first questions and frankly thought there might be a snow ball's chance in hell that you would ever build what you first talked about building. All I can say is you did it, it looks darn good and your son is going to be overjoyed with it. Good job!
Freeman, as always you are a great help. The only remaining question is about that jack. Which terminal is ground and which is output?
Oh, one other thing. The pots seem to have a good connection to the copper foil, do I have to solder a wire from the foil to the back of a pot as well?
What I see in the picture is that the terminal on the right is the "ring" which is the barrel of the plug and is grounded. The other one is the "tip" and the hot wire from the switch goes there.
When I shield compartments I usually solder a wire to the foil and to the common ground point "just because". Often humbucker controls aren't shielded - yours looks good and give you that added protection. Be sure to run a ground wire to the bridge - doesn't have to be soldered, just fan it out under the bridge when you screw it down.
As Freeman said the ring is ground (black wire).