New to Telecaster -- How low is your action on a 7.25 radius

...Ok so my high e is right at 2mm.

 

So what about the rest of the strings? You guys all set them at different heights for different playing styles? What’s the difference between a 7.25 or 12 radius? Obviously 12 is flatter but the myth of a round 7.25 radius being old school and you choke notes out because the stupid thin frets and round radius is a joke.

Fenders site comes up on google and says 4/64 for the high E. Start there and keep raising the action on that one string until it doesn’t choke out.

 

If "baseline" is what you want, then simply read Fender's setup guide...then watch it not work because you're not playing like the average person. I can tell you right now, however, that your strings are already higher than Fender's recommended starting points. So you're obviously not their version of the "average" player with the "average" needs, and/or your guitar has some issues.

In the time it takes you to Google and read the guide (which should have been your first step), you can turn a few screws on your bridge saddles and get the thing working.

When you have it set to the point at which it works without choking...you're set to the point at which it works without choking. If that string height doesn't work for you (after giving it a real chance), then it doesn't work for you...and then we can troubleshoot (e.g. technique, style, strings, frets, etc.), starting with a video of what the "choking" is, at your preferred string height. But for now, stop searching for some general theory derived from the specifications of a bunch of clowns on the Internet, and just start turning screws till the damned thing works. Step one is knowing how far up you need to go to get what you want in terms of bending.

 

Dunno, never measured action on any guitar I own (or owned). I set it where it’s not too low, not too high, just right, like Goldilocks...and all my guitars’ actions are different, but just feels right to me for each guitar... am not very particular as long as it intonates and plays well...numbers add up to nothing

 

Yes. I also own a Classic 60's Tele and it as well doesn't choke out anywhere near my max bends.
I just re-checked them - *almost* 5/64 on both 62 AVRI and Classic 60's. Enough so I can get the meat of my finger underneath.

 

There are a couple other things to consider: Some necks have been set up with some amount of fall-away. Bridge radius also matters. In addition to the importance of level frets, they need to be crowned properly. The more worn your frets are, the harder it is to crown them properly. Some necks are not a consistent radius. If they have been worked in the past, they may measure 7.25" across the center of the board, but may be a tighter or looser radius toward the edges. Also, the radius of the frets may not match the radius of the neck if they have been leveled incorrectly.

I rarely measure anything on a guitar, but I am not a professional. Most of the time I simply go by eye and ear. Of course, many people may consider my instruments unplayable...

 

So with fenders starting point at 4/64 and you’re choking out then I’d start looking at frets popping up, neck relief, that kind of the setup part. Yeah like everyone else is saying, raise it until it doesn’t buzz. You may have “crazy high” action now.

 

Can you explain how flattening the radius at the bridge on B/E strings helps to prevent choking out?

 

I never measure. Roy Buchanan could bend beyond measure on his old Tele. That being said, I don't like 7.25 radius as much as 9.5 up to 12, because it favors chords and twang while legato playing goes better with flatter necks. I find that 9.5 favors everything pretty well, really. Above 12, in shredder territory, I find that barre chords feel a little awkward.

 

Is it bad that I struggle to bend any string more than 1-1/2 steps, regardless of radius Maybe I need one of those springy hand exercisers.

OP - I think your question is a valid one, as you’re trying to get a baseline for what is possible. My brief experience (this is the first 7.25” neck I’ve owned) is that you can get a very playable action. Might be a good time to learn how to level and crown if you haven’t already. The guide @Ronkirn put out there has helped me tremendously. The investment in the tools was paid for long ago and I don’t hesitate to level/crown (if needed) every guitar I buy.

 

Sure, its just raising the action on the B/E strings relatively higher than the rest. Instead of raising the action on all the strings, you only work the unwound strings up a little higher.

 

Just out of curiosity (as I usually go by feel) I just measured action @ 12th fret on my 3 Teles (which all necks are 7.25" radius -my preference) : it's 4/64 on the high e (and... 5/64 low E). I don't know if this is considered high, med or low action, but to answer the OP, this allows me to do full step bends without fretting out in the upper neck (12-21st frets). This setup (along with minimal neck relief) gives a slight buzz on the '52 AVRI, though, which I know is because this one needs a crown and level job (frets show a little bit of wear in the 10-12th fret area).

 

Lighter strings? I'm a 9-42 man on Fenders. Bendy goodness.

 

This is the first mention I've seen of neck relief, and it's important. Try to get the neck as straight as you can, 0.006" or straighter, and then you should be able to get good bends with the action at 4-5/64", which is a little on the high side for my taste but still very playable. Your fretwork needs to be more accurate the straighter you get your neck, so you may find some fret buzz as you work into a lower action.

For what it's worth, 1.7mm is right in between 1/16" and 5/64", which puts you right in the ballpark for Fender's recommended specs. Check that neck relief, adjust if necessary, and then reset action at the bridge. This should get you better results.

 

I grew up playing a Strat with a 7-1/4" radius neck because - well that's all they had that I could afford, an old used Strat bought in 1966 .

I've always played with a high enough action that I could play slide with no problem (as long as I don't go too nuts ).

Never have any problem with choked bends on a 7-1/4" radius neck .



edit; if I've learned anything over the years - you have to have your guitar setup with an action that suits you and your playing style.

The prescribed action heights are just a guide, nothing is written in stone .

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