New to binding

yes. binding is available in different thicknesses... the most common being .040 and .060 inch.. the rout must be the correct depth otherwise you have a nightmare to deal with..

many use a kit such as this to rout the body correctly..

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...tools-for-binding/binding-router-bit-set.html

r

 

You can do multiple layers of binding to be thicker...like b-w-b or w-w w, or a combination of binding and purfling. There are also wood, fiber, and plastic strips.

Check these out.

https://www.lmii.com/33-bindings-purflings-backstrips/s-247/width-125_or_31mm

 

Since we’re discussing binding - I’ve had success with using just acetone to melt the binding for adhesion to the body. It’s much easier to install it and there’s way less (almost no) mess to deal with after. If there are any downsides to this method, I’d love to hear about it.

 

I've been doing it that way for a couple a decades now... NO adverse issues.. the only thing is, the binding must be "agreeable" .. If the acetone doesn't dissolve it some, it will not work..

r

 

Binding seems like a lot of work ...

I'll just buy a guitar with binding already on it, thank you ...

 

Practice with the router bit A LOT before you actually take the router to the guitar. It's super frustrating if you make a mistake and remove too much wood. I suppose you can make a patch, but your patch will never match the real thing.

And if the binding is a bit too thicker than your router bit, you can still installed the binding. After the glue has set up, you can trim the excess binding away with a scraper: https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...-tools/scrapers/stewmac-ultimate-scraper.html

I agree with rangecaster. I've done it, and it is a lot of work. But if I can do it, then it's not impossible

 

https://www.tdpri.com/threads/binding-101.1002709/

 

Don't do it!

Not a fan.... that's all.

 

Binding comes in a variety of thicknesses from 0.010 to 0.090 inch, with 0.060 (1.5 mm) a common size. Commercial wood binding is almost always 0.080 thick. Binding is almost always 1/4 tall.

You adjust the depth of the channel into the side (parallel to the top) by choosing the correct size bearing to use on a trim bit, or by using any of a variety of other devices - most of which somehow index off the side. The bearing is by far the easiest. The vertical depth of the cut (the 1/4) is set by how far the bit extends out of the router. Your bit is probably not the right one for standard binding - sorry.

Tele's are very easy to bind because of their flat tops and relatively gentle curves - arched tops are infinitely harder. I think binding give a guitar a finished look and it is functional to protect delicate end grain on soft woods like spruce or cedar.

The link that I posted above goes into binding in a lot of detail. One of the big choices will be what to use for adhesives between the plastic and the wood. Traditionally that was some sort of acetone based glue - either home made or commercial - it is messy and may give inconsistent results - what it is good for is making seamless miters (which you will not have on a tele). I am a big advocate of fitting your binding perfectly without adhesive, taping and clamping in place and then gluing it down with thin CA - I have never had CA fail and I can promise it is much easier to do.