Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by newuser1, Jul 21, 2019.
I just bough a 13" Rigid thickness planer and was wondering what is the best way to avoid snipe?
I think if you can build a solid base on each side that will support the board as it goes through that helps...but I've never done that. My method is just to plan on leaving a few extra inches on each side that can be cut off or sanded down depending on the project.
I don't get any snipe on my DeWalt 12.5" planer. Contact Ridgid?
I find that what works best for me is to have two sacrificial piece of wood that are around 6 inches long that you feed in immediately before and after the piece that you are planing.
Yup, a few extra inches of wood should solve that. It's pretty common
I purchased metal extensions for both sides of my Dewalt planer and made sure they are very planer with the planer bed. One thing that helps is to use the shortest board needed too. Be very careful as you grab the board from the exit can reduce it too. The slower/finer speed can help as well.
Do you mean that gouge near the middle (I think that’s what I’m seeing) that usually happens if you try to plane too much off at a time or if you try to force it through too fast.
Also might depend how well the piece was milled before going into the planer
To avoid snipe do not go out in the woods in the middle of the night with a burlap bag.
Some times you need to keep them bags under lock & key, ifin you don't, they will be full of snipe by sunup
Snipe is caused by lack of pressure bars and rigidity on light duty planers. You can put extension rollers in front or back of them to help a little but it's part of the design of those little portable planers. I have had snipe from my last three planers. Jet planer/molder, Delta 13, and Dewalt 735 13. I hold the board up upon entry and exit. It still snipes.
Snipe is a fact of life in the wood shop... the way you eliminate it is to cut your blanks long enough so the snipe occurs outside the intended work... I've used pretty much every smaller home grade planer around... snipe, snipe, snipe... I've. Made in and out feed tables.. the only thing I got outta them was a few more splinters...
I finally settled on a Grizzly Item# G1021X2 .. I still get snipe... but it's not problem. its outside the work area. and if not, the panel sander takes care of it..
The last twenty bodies I hand template routed, I first planed level with this kind of tool, no sniping.
Like guitars, I found the trick is all in the setup.
Spend a lot of time getting your indeed and outfeed tables as level as possible with the planet bed, and as rigid as possible.
The biggest cause of snipe is the wood rocking a bit on indeed and outfeed, when the hold-down rollers engage or disengage.
Beautiful plane! I'm a big fan of planes as I can joint an edge much faster with a sharp handplane than with any power tool (with the proper set up). I have a Record jointer plane that is (to me) the Cadillac of planes - very stable, flat, precise and a joy to use.
You can help mitigate snipe by making sure your planer's feed system is properly adjusted, your material is properly supported (including manually hold it it up a little at the beginning and end of the pass if necessary and ---> work with flat lumber. IE Fact joint it first. There's no assurance you can eliminate snipe and some machines seem to be more prone to it than others, but if you follow those three steps you'll suffer less of it.
Pushing down on the piece when in feeding and pulling up when out feeding helps but using extra long pieces and then cutting is just a cost of doing business...imho
Snipe happens. The woodshop here has a big industrial planer...snipe, snipe, snipe. I ran my body blanks thru it diagonally, so that the snipe occurred in the corners. Bandsaw out the body shape and the snipe goes in the trash.
I watched one guy run a large quantity of stock thru the big planer...he actually built a simple jig to help get rid of snipe, worked pretty well but seemed like overkill to me.
I'll try some of the suggestions, and the worst case scenario will be to have a little extra wood on each side
Thats a clever idea. Harder to apply with 13" bench top planer, but still a potentially useful technique on smaller pieces.
For the OP, I've got the same Rigid planer and I find that its a good idea to minimize the amount of wood you are taking off with each pass. As everyone has pointed out, snipe is a fact of life with these tools, but its generally less of an issue if you take shallow cuts.
DeWalt dw734. $399. No snipe. Ever. And I've run hundreds of boards through and have replaced the blades...