Bruxist
Poster Extraordinaire
Pictures or it didn't happen
Lol, fair enough. I don't carry it daily anymore as I am afraid to lose it. Will get it out of my gadget drawer.
Pictures or it didn't happen
I have some of those as well. But not for EDC. They’re mostly holdouts from childhood. I’ve had too many non-locking folders fold up and bite me. In their defense, I was asking too much of them. But luckily it’s an easily avoidable problem.Nice. I always tend to go for the Victorinox multi tool knives personally though.
I thinknthe worst bite I got from a Victorinox was from the damn can opener.I have some of those as well. But not for EDC. They’re mostly holdouts from childhood. I’ve had too many non-locking folders fold up and bite me. In their defense, I was asking too much of them. But luckily it’s an easily avoidable problem.
That’s for sure! I have a small Gerber folding knife with a stainless steel blade. I swear I think it just laughs at my sharpening stones.Most stainless steels not only fail to hold an edge like carbon steel, they are also more difficult to put an edge on.
True. I came up in a different time. Knives weren’t popular, or any kind of fad. And weren’t collected by anyone but guys at school in trench coats and greasy hair who played way too much D&D. I’m not picking on D&D, I’ve definitely played my share, but we all know who I’m talking about. Lol.Most stainless steels not only fail to hold an edge like carbon steel, they are also more difficult to put an edge on.
Have you forced a patina on it? I’ve done it on several high carbon knife blades and it really cuts down on needed maintenance. It makes it dull and dark looking. It won’t have a mirror shine at all. But it seems to seal it well and make it much less susceptible to corrosion.Prior to this thread, I hadn't bothered seeing what my "new" (2 years of use) knife was made of. High carbon and chromium. That explains why it stays sharper longer than my S&W I had for ages before this Kershaw.
Higher carbon > everything else for kitchen knives. Wife makes fun of how protective I am of my favorite pairing knife.
My high carbon springsteel rapier needs oil or it rusts. Fortunately, everything else I own with higher carbon content aren't high maintenance.
I notice that you seem to have a preference for Swedish made edges!I have several Moras...carbon steel in each of my tool boxes, stainless in my tackle box, and one in each vehicle. They are inexpensive and that is not reflected in their quality. These things are fantastic tools at any price.
They used to be a lot cheaper until the 'bushcraft' goobs started talking them up.
When I'm in the woods, I take a Fallkniven F1 and a small Gransfors Bruks hatchet. These have served well for many years.
Not tried it on the knife. I might try vinegar and rem oil next time I sharpen it.Have you forced a patina on it? I’ve done it on several high carbon knife blades and it really cuts down on needed maintenance. It makes it dull and dark looking. It won’t have a mirror shine at all. But it seems to seal it well and make it much less susceptible to corrosion.
A four hour soak in plain old white vinegar will do it. I do that, then dry, then clean by using a light coating of some kind of oil. Light machine oil, 3 in 1, or in a pinch even Vaseline. Then wipe super dry and clean. After that it’s never been an issue unless I put something away wet. Which I know I shouldn’t do. Lol.
A rapier is incredibly impractical. Unless your name is Enigo Montoya, and a six fingered man killed your father.Not tried it on the knife. I might try vinegar and rem oil next time I sharpen it.
The rapier is long and impractical. 17 year old me got a deal on it and wanted to have a real sword with a functional blade instead of stainless giftshop variety. Obviously a freaking rapier is one of the least practical bladed things to own. Shoulda gotten a cutlass or a wakizashi. Those at least make good machetes.
Looks like I could sell it for a couple hundred bucks. If I can get a pawn shop to do $200+ in trade, I may part with it. Otherwise, it's fine in the closet.
Have you forced a patina on it? I’ve done it on several high carbon knife blades and it really cuts down on needed maintenance. It makes it dull and dark looking. It won’t have a mirror shine at all. But it seems to seal it well and make it much less susceptible to corrosion.
A four hour soak in plain old white vinegar will do it. I do that, then dry, then clean by using a light coating of some kind of oil. Light machine oil, 3 in 1, or in a pinch even Vaseline.
Great info!! Thank you. And I was already up on the finger print thing. I always clean well before. But I hadn’t thought of the wicking thing.An issue with vinegar or ferric chloride (Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, etc.) is the acid can wick into the space between the scales and the tang through the handle, and continue to corrode the steel if it's not all completely neutralized. You can prevent this by first applying Vaseline or light oil where the blade enters the handle, and then wiping it completely dry.
On of the easiest ways to do an acid etch on carbon steel is to use plain ol' cheap yellow mustard, because it contains vinegar, and it's a gel and stays where you apply it. Even the stuff in the little packets from the deli works great. Tomato ketchup works too, but mustard contains more vinegar than ketchup. I've not tried mayo!
Clean the steel with alcohol first to remove even the tiniest bits of fingerprints or you'll end up with an etch that shows your fingerprints. You don't need to do the police's work for them
If you're a stickler for sharpness, keep your knife in its leather sheath only when you're carrying it because the acids used to tan the leather will dull the blade over the long term.
The Scandi grind kinda rocks.I notice that you seem to have a preference for Swedish made edges!
The Scandi grind kinda rocks.
don't cut yer thumb off........dohMy fave folder of all time, the Kershaw Shuffle II blackwash.
like it so much I bought an identical one as backup View attachment 1102625