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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Treadplatedual, Feb 12, 2019.
I guess the other option is to slightly alter the shape with my belt/disc/orbital sanders. I think if I removed maybe a millimeter or so, it wouldn't be nearly as noticeable, but then getting the sides identical would be a bit rough.
Hey, would anchoring the template a quarter inch shorter then taking small passes (say only 1/8 at a time) work to fix that blowout? I know the shape won't be perfectly on, but no one will notice from the audience
That is certainly what I would do, I think you will be unhappy trying to patch it. Thats a good lesson in routing - as you know the direction you feed into the bit makes a big difference in the way it cuts. Were you using a hand held router or a table?
The other big boo boo people make is to drill the output jack hole, then try to do the round over. The follower bearing drops in the hole and you get to say the magic words...
Yeah, it was a router table.
I did the first half or so with a 1/2 inch top bearing bit 1/8 inch at a time, and it went flawlessly.
I flipped over and tried to very gently use my Freud 3-flute bit to finish the remaining 3/4 in one go, but got stupid.
Fixed it by attaching the template about 3/8 of an inch up. Added 1/4 roundover. Looking much better, I feel like less of an idiot! But lesson learned, take your dang time!
Nice save! It's gonna be beautiful
Good save. That wood is lovely.
So, I'd initially thought about just scrapping this body and buying more wood, the place I get it from has a number of boards of this stuff and it's very reasonable (i spent 65 bucks for 3 feet of this jointed). Even so, nice to know I can make my own body blanks for that cheap instead of paying ridiculous stewmac prices for example. That said, trying to figure out where my stewmac truss rods are so I can start the neck, I ordered over a week ago, got the fretboards in 2 days but the truss rods don't even show as shipped yet. Go figure.
Rex... wow is that gorgeous... do you have any pics of the finished guitar?
So, about to start on the neck. This is what I'm most apprehensive about, since it has the greatest chance to make or break my build.
The pres-slotted fretboard I ordered from Stewmac looks great, but has developed a little warped-ness from acclimating to my house. Is this something I need to worry about, as in, should I send it back, or will the clamping/gluing to the neck itself solve the problem?
Thanks again for all your input guys.
Its hard to say without seeing it but two things. First, you should be building in more or less the same humidity level as the wood was dried and stored, and which your guitar will be stored when it is done. That is normally around 40-45% RH. Our houses are frequently far less in the winter (20 % or even less) - that can cause your wood to move. It is a particular problem with thin plates in acoustic guitars but fretboards will also shrink. I can't give you any advice on humidifying your work area but at least be aware.
Second, I'm one of those people who fret their boards before gluing to the neck. The boards always take a back bow from the compression of the frets in the slots - when I glue the boards onto the necks I always clamp against a fairly stout caul and the back bow always comes out.
Awesome! I guess I'd been planning to fret after attaching it, since I want the board trimmed to match the neck sides. How do you do this exactly?
Happened to me the other day. I’m doing a new cap top on my Rick Turner Model 1, so the jack hole was already there. Didn’t even think about it as I was doing the round over - then “ping”, nice little blow out. I was absolutely gutted at the time, and yes, some choice words were said!
Pretty much managed to fix it with some magic dust and glue trick, and final finishing show hide all evidence.
I had the presence of mind on my first body to roundover first. I'm glad you and Freeman brought this up, so I can remember it forever, kind of like how one of Ron Kirns's build threads taught me to always and forever route near the neck heel first so I don't accidentally round it off under the heel plate.
Most people fret after they've glued the board to the neck but I like to press mine in and its really hard to support the neck under the press. A Fender neck is pretty easy but I build acoustics and Gibson style guitars - the angled heads and big heels get in the way.
My other reason for this order is that I bind many of my fretboards. Once I have done that the width is defined accurately - if I'm not binding I still size the board to it final dimensions. Do the inlay and fret it, trim the fret ends but don't do the final dressing, then glue it to the neck. One thing I don't like is that I can't drive brads thru the slots to locate it - I've been able to come up with some pretty good clamping cauls. The neck at this point is roughly shaped but slightly oversize, it has been fit to the body and I know the geometry is correct. Once the board is glued on I can do the final shaping, most of the time the back of my neck curves slightly into the bottom of the f/b. A very minimum is taken off the bottom of the side of the neck or binding, I use that as an indicator to limit my carving.
Of course the whole time I'm also trying to fit it to the templates. I think I covered it in my two build threads and I'm doing an acoustic neck as we speak - should be some pictures in WOYWBT by the weekend.
Talked with my uncle (who started a well-known bass company in the 90s, but has long been building one-offs for friends/doing refret work and the like), who really likes using the "Don Cheeder(sp?)" method of slightly enlarging fret slots with a dental drill bit, then using epoxy to hold them in, as it prevents any backbow from the frets. He's had some success doing that for the past 30 years, but it's a bit advanced for me at this point, I think I'll stick with hammering them in at this point, at least until I can get an arbor press or something to try pressing them in.
Based on the fretboard I have slightly warping (probably due to humidity changes, and front to back not side to side if that makes sense), I'll likely put the frets in after gluing it to the neck in this case.
Don Teeter. Grandfather of a lot of the stuff we do routinely today. I'd stick to a normal installation and save the epoxy for your 10th neck.
It seems like every one you talk to does it differently
and I think that is just fine. Fender necks are easy - Leo designed them that way. And of course if you are making a one piece neck then by definition you are fretting "after the fretboard has been glued on".
I do use a little drop of CA under the fretwire, particularly on bound necks - again, some do, some don't. Some people use AR or HHG. I figure that anyone refretting one of my guitars in the future is going to know to use a little heat when they pull the frets. I've never done the epoxy trick, but there are some folks who claim it makes the guitar sound better. I did get to refret an old '30's guitar that had bar frets - those had to be glued in with HHG.