New Design Proto Build - Sly

preeb

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NECK

There is no way I can think of to save on neck material or work so I will be using the same wood and roughing as I always do. The only difference will be in the neck joint angle so this will be a Sly only neck

IMG_20200713_120613.jpg
 

preeb

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FINGERBOARD

To save on Fingerboard material is very easy... use anything but Brazilian Rosewood (-;
But.. I'm not going to do it. There's a very magical and long tested relationship between Mahogany, hard Maple and Brazilian RW that proved to be the "right" recipe and I'm too old to change that..
I air dry my BRRW and once stable I will bake it to drip out any leftover sap. This cannot be done on sliced board size blanks so the material is rather large.
I select the darker boards to be quarter sliced (Bone-59, Lyra) and the lighter multi colored ones to be flat sliced (Brighter in tone).
Since the Maple volume is lower on the Sly (like on the Bone H) I find the brighter boards better in the overall matching.
I have many billets that were cattle fence poles in Brazil and were legally processed through the Cites Org and the BR government years ago when it was still possible. Out of which, the perfect billets are used for one piece BRRW necks, the less perfect are sliced into fingerboards (yield varies..) and some billets are too figured or have irregular grain coloration... those are perfectly good sounding pieces but they are always being pushed to the bottom of the pile in search for the even straight grained or darker stuff...
So now is the time to use them

This is a fingerboard grade billet which is multi colored (disregard the wax on surface )

IMG_20200713_095936.jpg




It has some nice colors and non straight grain which is a good candidate for a slab cut. I may have a few knots to work around too...

IMG_20200713_095957.jpg
 

preeb

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I mark the usable outline avoiding less attractive areas..

IMG_20200713_100950.jpg




Flip and drill the indexing pin holes

IMG_20200713_101405.jpg



like that

IMG_20200713_101426.jpg
 

preeb

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rough outline cut

IMG_20200713_101234.jpg




Loaded to the CNC fingerboard jig (I will be using the CNC extensively for the Sly build for obvious reasons)

IMG_20200713_102142.jpg




11" initial Radius

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dot marks drills

IMG_20200713_103041.jpg




Fret slots... I usually do the slots by hand as it is the fastest way but I plan on letting the CNC work on Sly's while I'm attending to other jobs in the shop (-;

IMG_20200713_104355.jpg
 

preeb

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For dots I will use clay dots. Same original NOS material used on old Fenders. It is a nice touch for a simple yet classic vintage vibe look. If you have played an old F neck you know what I'm talking about (-;

The dots are cut from an original 50's sheet material and sanded on one side so you can see the darker faded side and the way they look fresh..


IMG_20200713_103438.jpg


IMG_20200713_103442.jpg
 

preeb

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The Sly board will have no binding (of coarse) and since I cut the fret slots on the CNC I didn't run the slot all the way to the edge. This way I will (maybe... as this is time consuming) be able to trim the fret tangs for a clean side fretwork.

IMG_20200713_113848.jpg



IMG_20200713_113852.jpg



Note how the colorful slab board with the clay dots is so "earthy" looking compared to the MOP inlays on the Lyra boards in the background. Fun stuff..

IMG_20200713_125731.jpg
 
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preeb

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MAPLE TOP


My Maple tops are usually thicknessed down to 3/4" to allow for some bowing removal at build time. This means I can resaw one side into a full 1/4" top.
my resaw kerf cut is 1/16" which means about 1/8" after sanding. This means 1/2 the price for material at the price of the resawing time... nothing is free in this world..

IMG_20200713_125650.jpg





My only issue is that I have no extra width for truing when the thin 1/4" bows... but I have some other method to deal with that.
I soak the concave side with water and cover with a wet towel overnight. This will reverse the distortion and allow for perfect jointing tomorrow

IMG_20200713_125805.jpg
 
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moosie

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Great stuff, thanks for sharing!

Two questions, if you don't mind...

First, about the bowed 1/4" top, do you mean wet the conCAVE side? You want that side to swell, to force it straight, no?

Also, way back when you jointed the center body billet. I'm not clear on how you did it. I would have used the jointer to do one side, and TS for the other, then planer for thicknessing, as per normal. If I read correctly, you didn't use the jointer at all on this piece, but fed it through the planer edgewise... both sides? I see that getting them parallel, but not necessarily straight.

Just trying to learn...
 

preeb

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Great stuff, thanks for sharing!

Two questions, if you don't mind...

First, about the bowed 1/4" top, do you mean wet the conCAVE side? You want that side to swell, to force it straight, no?

Also, way back when you jointed the center body billet. I'm not clear on how you did it. I would have used the jointer to do one side, and TS for the other, then planer for thicknessing, as per normal. If I read correctly, you didn't use the jointer at all on this piece, but fed it through the planer edgewise... both sides? I see that getting them parallel, but not necessarily straight.

Just trying to learn...

Yes.. Concave.
The usual way... Jointer first side (there was no photo) and then thickness planer for the other side
 




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