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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, May 16, 2019.
Welcome back, Preeb! You’ve come a long way from a rooftop shack in Tel Aviv.
Miss that shack sometimes...
These are just awesome! Thanks for posting. I am particularly interested in seeing the stop piece / floating bridge combo you come up with. I was wondering about leverage on the stop piece studs extending so far out of the body but you have addressed that above.
The STP floats but the ABR needs to sit on the top to transfer the vibrations.
What is STP?
Who makes this sander?
That shade of green screams Grizzly to me. Appears to have been modified though.
Very elegant way to float the top. Beautiful guitars!
Sorry... Stop Tail Piece.
I made it using a standard old belt sander and added the face sander assembly and tilting.
Acetone glue in nut slot
NuBone material nut
Final sanding has 3 steps: Coarse (120), water/Salt solution, fine (220).
Step 1: 120 grit sanding to remove any tooling marks and scratches and to round any sharp edges
Step 2: Special salts mixed in water and applied to the entire instrument outer surface except for the board.
I repeat this 3-4 times and wait for it to completely dry between applications (this is needed for lowering the moisture content on the surface from 6% to about 1%)
this is also the step where I start to see the wood and look for any flaws or glue stains etc...
Step 3: Fine sanding with 220 grit to remove any raised wood fibers. I also finalize the F holes and STP drills and go over every edge to verify perfection
Fingerboard is masked and the guitar needs to be sealed within a few minutes before the dry surface starts to suck moisture from the air...
Clear highly cut (mixed with alcohol) Shellac is sprayed to seal the wood prior to pore filling.
I like to minimize the finish film thickness and the Shellac only needs to seal the surface and bottom the pores and this is the reason I came up with the salt drying process. The wood sucks the thinned shellac in without much excess left on the surface.
Here are a few wet photos as I sprayed
And here are some dry photos a minute later.
The surface dries in seconds but I let it sit overnight to allow the moisture content to raise back to normal 6-7%
Just wow, the depth of concept, design and execution is just ineffable.
I just binge-read six pages.
Not tired - just thirsty for more.
Is it okay to shout Go Cat Go!
Interesting technique with the salt, Gil. What inspired you to come up with that?
I use the same salts (not table salt!!) To treat some of the wood I use and noticed that treated wood absorbs diluted shellac much faster than non treated wood.. so I played with it a little till I found the right combination of treatment/dilution/spraying.
Brillant idea preeb !
Great looking design. How about a P90 version?
Old school oil pore filler mixed from boiled linseed oil, 4F pumice, mineral spirits, lacquer and oil soluble dark mahogany aniline pigment powder.
Application is with a brush and then I force the stuff into the pores with burlap
Once it hardens a little about 30 minutes later I repeat and leave it until the shine is gone and it's looking a little hazy
then I scrape it flat and hang it for 48 hours. Very messy process... but it has to be done properly twice in order to allow a good surface for super thin lacquer coat.