New Amp Build... need a good name? Please Scrutinize!

Scottcurry13

TDPRI Member
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Nov 3, 2022
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59
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Boston Area
I named my latest amp Dr Evil.
EB78D34B-74D3-49E3-9802-9F6A4AB0E100.jpeg
8BEC3D69-F5BA-4C95-ACED-B3F2EC46ECF2.jpeg
 

lowatter

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SC
Very nice work. How 'bout "XTONE"? Admittedly it's what I named my 1974X(ish) build but feel free to use the name if you wish. It's not like I'm in production or anything.
 

Festofish

Friend of Leo's
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Fremont, MI
The Marsh Prince reminds me of Lemiwinks and Catatarfish. How about Stan after Stan Marsh. If you like Southpark that is. :D
 

Sam VanLaningham

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Location
Bend Oregon
Hey what is the gauge of the chassis? are the minor bends in the sides just imperfections in 18 ga or thicker steel (impossible to make perfect by hand!)?

Ive built a few chassis myself. My first one was with way too thin metal…..over time, i had a few issues, grounding etc. I think the flex of the chassis would break down solders, especially the grounds to the body. I fortified it with 16 gauge steel bands wherever i could and that worked aok (still moved it to a 16 ga hammond chassis later).

No flex in chassis?
 

mountainhick

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Hey what is the gauge of the chassis? are the minor bends in the sides just imperfections in 18 ga or thicker steel (impossible to make perfect by hand!)?

Ive built a few chassis myself. My first one was with way too thin metal…..over time, i had a few issues, grounding etc. I think the flex of the chassis would break down solders, especially the grounds to the body. I fortified it with 16 gauge steel bands wherever i could and that worked aok (still moved it to a 16 ga hammond chassis later).

No flex in chassis?

Good eye... There's learning curve making these boxes.

It is imperfect by virtue of it being the very first from my brake before the bugs were worked out of it. I did do a little hand work to finish it. I made the brake, and it is OK but not perfect itself. I have also done the second box, and it too isn't perfect. I'll continue to refine.

I don't know the gauge, maybe 18g. It is stiff, as stiff as a couple factory boxes: hammond organ amp and magnavox amp chassis. There is noticable flex if you push on the long edges of all of them. I am not worried about solder joints as I use none on the chassis, only earth and ground which are bolted/mechanical. A face plate will take care of any appearance issue once it is in the cabinet. I am into imperfection anyway. While amazed at some guys' perfect work here that looks more perfect than factory built, I actually like a bit of organic hand made imperfection, dovetailed wood cabinets vs tolex, imperfectly hand etched brass face plates vs laser work etc. No excuse for what may be perceived as cosmetically shoddy, some people don't like the organic end of it, but functionally not shoddy.
 

mountainhick

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@mountainhick Looks like nice work!

Far as a name goes, get yourself a badge or emblem off a car, truck, or large kitchen appliance and stick it on there. Here are a few of my builds.

1967 Ford Mustang:
SDC-Done-Montage.jpg


1970 Mercury Cougar:
Cougar-Amp.jpg


1940s International Harvester tractor:
Torque-Amplifier-Montage.jpg


1966 Chevrolet Nova:
Nova-SS-Amp-Small-CR.jpg

I LOVE these badges! And I frequent the U-pull-it type junk yards a couple times a year. Will definitely get a couple next time. Great Idea!
 

King Fan

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Heh, you're gonna be sorry you asked us for name ideas. :) In my case, make it lame name ideas. But if you're thinking Swamp, there's always, with apologies to Eminence, "Swamp Thang." Not very seriously, but Beatle Bailey and Sarge serve their country at "Camp Swampy." And in honor of the FAME studios crew, you could do "The Swampers" or just "Muscle Shoals."
 

mountainhick

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Heh, you're gonna be sorry you asked us for name ideas. :) In my case, make it lame name ideas. But if you're thinking Swamp, there's always, with apologies to Eminence, "Swamp Thang." Not very seriously, but Beatle Bailey and Sarge serve their country at "Camp Swampy." And in honor of the FAME studios crew, you could do "The Swampers" or just "Muscle Shoals."

Not sorry, quite flabbergasted. It is pretty entertaining!

I do wish though that the technical questions I asked near the beginning about the cathode wire lead dress etc (Post #5) didn't get lost in all the name calling.
 
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Sam VanLaningham

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Bend Oregon
No excuse for what may be perceived as cosmetically shoddy, some people don't like the organic end of it, but functionally not shoddy.
If i sounded judgemental, sorry! Not at all. Looks just fine aesthetically to me (i think i have less attractive examples on this forum no less:)). I just saw the bends and was hoping it wasnt because the metal was too thin? Sounds like youre good!
 

mountainhick

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If i sounded judgemental, sorry! Not at all. Looks just fine aesthetically to me (i think i have less attractive examples on this forum no less:)). I just saw the bends and was hoping it wasnt because the metal was too thin? Sounds like youre good!
No worries, not taken as judgemental. The bar is high here though, and some perfectionists might judge. That's OK too.

I do want to know from the collective here when I show something that could actually be functionally faulty.
 

ping-ping-clicka

Doctor of Teleocity
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10,137
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left coast
@mountainhick Looks like nice work!

Far as a name goes, get yourself a badge or emblem off a car, truck, or large kitchen appliance and stick it on there. Here are a few of my builds.

1967 Ford Mustang:
SDC-Done-Montage.jpg


1970 Mercury Cougar:
Cougar-Amp.jpg


1940s International Harvester tractor:
Torque-Amplifier-Montage.jpg


1966 Chevrolet Nova:
Nova-SS-Amp-Small-CR.jpg
I've gotta say this is in the very best sense of the word : SLICK!
Very professional looking piece of kit.
My good ness I'm impressed.
On last thing , how'd ya do it ?
 

Peegoo

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Beast of Bourbon
On last thing , how'd ya do it ?

Cheers, brother.

Do you mean, how did I stick the emblems on? It's easier than it looks.

If that's the question, these die-cast badges have bayonets on the back that are designed to press into a B-clip swaged into the sheet metal of a vehicle's body panel.

Car-Emblems-Badges.jpg


So the thing to do is make a paper template by pressing the pins into a piece of paper resting on something soft, like a single layer of terry towel. This will leave little impressions in the paper.

Use an awl or other pointy tool to poke through the paper at each pin location. Cut out the template, lay it on the surface where the badge is going, and set the badge on it. Check to make sure the badge is centered and straight (or oriented the way you want). Without moving the template, lift the badge up. Mark through the template holes. This is where you drill the same diameter as the pins. A tiny bit larger than the pin diameter is a good idea so you don't have to hammer the badge into place.

I use a toothpick to add a tiny bit of Titebond (less than a full drop) in each hole. This helps hold the badge in place since I like a sort of loose press fit. Gently and evenly press the badge down flush.

Mooy Importantay: these emblems are usually made of pot metal (Phillips metal/white metal/etc.), which is extremely brittle and will not endure any sort of abuse, bending, or twisting. It will break if you look at it funny. The chrome will flake off. So be very very gentle with these things.

Note: you can improve the appearance of these badges by applying flat black paint into recesses in 'closed' letters; look above at the O and two E's in the Monterey emblem. Those little recesses will get black paint before I install it.
 

ping-ping-clicka

Doctor of Teleocity
Ad Free Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2019
Posts
10,137
Location
left coast
Cheers, brother.

Do you mean, how did I stick the emblems on? It's easier than it looks.

If that's the question, these die-cast badges have bayonets on the back that are designed to press into a B-clip swaged into the sheet metal of a vehicle's body panel.

Car-Emblems-Badges.jpg


So the thing to do is make a paper template by pressing the pins into a piece of paper resting on something soft, like a single layer of terry towel. This will leave little impressions in the paper.

Use an awl or other pointy tool to poke through the paper at each pin location. Cut out the template, lay it on the surface where the badge is going, and set the badge on it. Check to make sure the badge is centered and straight (or oriented the way you want). Without moving the template, lift the badge up. Mark through the template holes. This is where you drill the same diameter as the pins. A tiny bit larger than the pin diameter is a good idea so you don't have to hammer the badge into place.

I use a toothpick to add a tiny bit of Titebond (less than a full drop) in each hole. This helps hold the badge in place since I like a sort of loose press fit. Gently and evenly press the badge down flush.

Mooy Importantay: these emblems are usually made of pot metal (Phillips metal/white metal/etc.), which is extremely brittle and will not endure any sort of abuse, bending, or twisting. It will break if you look at it funny. The chrome will flake off. So be very very gentle with these things.

Note: you can improve the appearance of these badges by applying flat black paint into recesses in 'closed' letters; look above at the O and two E's in the Monterey emblem. Those little recesses will get black paint before I install it.
aaaaw, he said , so your a technician not a witch, that's a relief.
thank you for taking the time to explain the magic.
this is such a cool appointment to the beautifully executed case.
I tip my my hat to your style and grace.
oh yeah , the addition of the Super Sport logo is the cherry on the top.😎
are you in the process of creating a fully functional road case for the amp?
 




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