New Amp Build... need a good name? Please Scrutinize!

[mountainhick]

Just finished wiring and inspection, next after a rest, startup procedure...

I've triple checked, but PLEASE SCRUTINIZE!!!

Also it needs a name, The closest I've come up with is The Marsh Prince. It is essentially a 2 triode pre much like a 5E2/5F2, but with different tone pot value, and V1 cathode switch that goes between Fender values and Marshall values.

I don't know whether the cold clipper mode on the second triode will be any good at all without a subsequent stage, but can change that resistor easily.

I also added a Robrob style pre PI FX loop. Not sure how it will do here.

And Pre PI MV.

I left room for an additional tube if it needs something kind of in space #1.

Scratch built, using the first chassis from the Sheet metal brake I made.

The circuit is adapted from: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/phew-...-small-chassis-pp-6aq5-please-review.1100225/

However, I made some mods since that discussion, the circuit and layout is slightly different. I will post an updated schematic soon.

I used 2 of the 3 three position switches on a 3 gang rotary switch for the cathode switching here https://www.tdpri.com/threads/thoug...r-bypass-schemes.1102291/page-2#post-11439848

V1 6N2P pre
V2 6AV6 PI
V3 & 4 6AQ5 PP Cathode biased
ANTEK 05T200
Edcor XPP-10-8-10 10 Watt 10K primary, 8 ohn secondary.

 

[2L man]

Looks good but I can't help with your new baby name

I would mount those long radial electrolyts and perhaps also yellow polycap. A dap of silicon is easy for electrolyts. Or drill holes to board close the end and tie to board. Perhaps silicon for poly too if its legs allow pressing it closer to chassis? If green and white resistors run hot try to move electrolyts more away of them?

 

[chas.wahl]

My very cursory scrutiny: the cathode resistor cheek-by-jowl with its bypass cap (and the resistor on the opposite side) is a recipe for meltdown.

 

[mountainhick]

Looks good but I can't help with your new baby name

I would mount those long radial electrolyts and perhaps also yellow polycap. A dap of silicon is easy for electrolyts. Or drill holes to board close the end and tie to board. Perhaps silicon for poly too if its legs allow pressing it closer to chassis? If green and white resistors run hot try to move electrolyts more away of them?

My very cursory scrutiny: the cathode resistor cheek-by-jowl with its bypass cap (and the resistor on the opposite side) is a recipe for meltdown.

Thank you thank you for the Cathode resistor warning! And @2L man also green dropping resistor to B+2 to screens...

Welcome thoughts about adjusting their placements. Looks like a fairly extensive rework at first glance. I am certainly up for it, but if there's something simpler I don't see...

 

[mountainhick]

Another question: I flew a couple of the V1 cathode switch wires up and over... the two yellow wires. Could these become a source of noise, hum, RF? They are Cathode not signal wires. Green signal wires to grids run under the board.

And another: I'm unsure about orientation of the coupling caps from PI. currently shield ends go to PI plate and cathode.

 

[SerpentRuss]

You didn't use the screen taps, did you? I definitely would have given that a shot. How about "The Hickster" or "7-Pin Grin"

 

[mountainhick]

You didn't use the screen taps, did you? I definitely would have given that a shot. How about "The Hickster" or "7-Pin Grin"

Yeah, I ordered the OT after I had already assembled the board months ago. Screen taps still a future option...

Thanks for the name suggestions!

 

[mountainhick]

If green and white resistors run hot try to move electrolyts more away of them?

My very cursory scrutiny: the cathode resistor cheek-by-jowl with its bypass cap (and the resistor on the opposite side) is a recipe for meltdown.

2L and Mr Prine

Surgery... There will be room for hot resistors. Will look good once completed.

This board was laid out for a smaller chassis, then I chose to use a bigger one. I wasn't too happy with the cram job in the power section anyway, so...

 

[mountainhick]

Updated. Due to mounting stud locations I went a little more spread out than needed for component comfort, but I had the room, so...

Look pretty good, not perfect.

 

[King Fan]

That's a tidy build; nice one.

I hate to be negative about anything here, but "Marsh Prince" somehow suggests swamp gas more than a Marshall-y classic tweed. "Prince Tone"? "Sugar Shack"? "Special Sauce"? "Secret Recipe"? ummm, "Jim loves Leo"?

 

[mountainhick]

That's a tidy build; nice one.

I hate to be negative about anything here, but "Marsh Prince" somehow suggests swamp gas more than a Marshall-y classic tweed. "Prince Tone"? "Sugar Shack"? "Special Sauce"? "Secret Recipe"? ummm, "Jim loves Leo"?

Not quite up to your level of tidy, but I'll take the compliment!

I'll have to play it, hear it and potentially tweak on the way to a name. I kind of like the "swamp" vibe, but not swamp gas. Let's hope it doesn't sound like farts.

 

[Powdog]

How about HOT MESS.

 

[Mexitele Blues]

 

[pinchegil]

 

[Peegoo]

@mountainhick Looks like nice work!

Far as a name goes, get yourself a badge or emblem off a car, truck, or large kitchen appliance and stick it on there. Here are a few of my builds.

1967 Ford Mustang:

1970 Mercury Cougar:

1940s International Harvester tractor:

1966 Chevrolet Nova:

 

[gabasa]

Prince James (as in James Marshall)?
Nice work!

 

[mountainhick]

How about HOT MESS.

Is my work that bad?

 

[Powdog]

Is my work that bad?

Naw man, I just meant you have a lot of things going on there. The wiring looks tight.

 

[ping-ping-clicka]

Just finished wiring and inspection, next after a rest, startup procedure...

I've triple checked, but PLEASE SCRUTINIZE!!!

Also it needs a name, The closest I've come up with is The Marsh Prince. It is essentially a 2 triode pre much like a 5E2/5F2, but with different tone pot value, and V1 cathode switch that goes between Fender values and Marshall values.

I don't know whether the cold clipper mode on the second triode will be any good at all without a subsequent stage, but can change that resistor easily.

I also added a Robrob style pre PI FX loop. Not sure how it will do here.

And Pre PI MV.

I left room for an additional tube if it needs something kind of in space #1.

Scratch built, using the first chassis from the Sheet metal brake I made.

The circuit is adapted from: https://www.tdpri.com/threads/phew-...-small-chassis-pp-6aq5-please-review.1100225/

However, I made some mods since that discussion, the circuit and layout is slightly different. I will post an updated schematic soon.

I used 2 of the 3 three position switches on a 3 gang rotary switch for the cathode switching here https://www.tdpri.com/threads/thoug...r-bypass-schemes.1102291/page-2#post-11439848

V1 6N2P pre
V2 6AV6 PI
V3 & 4 6AQ5 PP Cathode biased
ANTEK 05T200
Edcor XPP-10-8-10 10 Watt 10K primary, 8 ohn secondary.


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That's a very tidy inside you got there. Really it's so neat. I take it this isn't you first rodeo.
Impressive looking.
Marsh Prince is very logical, and How about a singers name , like "Yma Sumac Special"
She was known as the Inca Princess and sang with ornette coleman before yoko ono

 

[Brian J.]

call it the Beaver Squeezer, cause that combination of words just sort of rolls off the tongue