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New 5E3 build

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by Entropy, Apr 15, 2021.

  1. Entropy

    Entropy TDPRI Member

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    Hi everyone,

    I've been collecting all the parts to build a 5E3 (using Robrob's diagram), and have almost everything I need to start.

    I just wanted to check switch requirements to meet AUS standards. I'm sure I read somewhere that in the EU both hot and neutral need to be switched, but wasn't sure what is required in Australia (or how to find that info?)

    Sorry if it's a dumb question.

    I look forward to sharing the build and asking many more questions as I go.
     
  2. David Barnett

    David Barnett Doctor of Teleocity

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    Using a double pole switch for both hot and neutral is never a bad idea, even if it's not required.

    Besides, standards only really apply if you're planning to sell amplifiers commercially. If you're building for yourself you can do what you like, as long as it's safe and it works.
     
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  3. DrPepper

    DrPepper Friend of Leo's

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    Build for safety and you will be okay... (DPDT) (fuse hot before switch) (ground wire from 3-wire cord shortest of the 3 and grounded by itself to the chassis)
     
  4. Entropy

    Entropy TDPRI Member

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    Ok, thanks!

    Is there any reason to use a DPDT over a DPST switch?
     
  5. Commodore 64

    Commodore 64 Friend of Leo's

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    I thought you wanted ground wire the longest of the 3 in case the cord was pulled, ground would be last to go.
     
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  6. 2L man

    2L man Tele-Meister

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    Welcome!

    Double Throw stay On and you don't use for example your feet to keep amp On :)

    It is also handy when you can turn DT switch 180 decrees after 30 or so years and get many more yesrs of use ;)

    One good reason is that their availability is good which often make them cheapest option.
     
  7. King Fan

    King Fan Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    IME DPST is fine, but I use Carling switches with near-infinite MTTF. Not only is switching 'em both a good idea, as mentioned, regardless of local standards, but also it’s actually easier, since it gives you a nice tie point for your neutral instead of a splice in space.

    Rob has started drawing both switched in recent years — his 5E3 drawings aren’t his newest. Here's a similar amp showing the fuse in order, tho likely your mains wire colors will be different.

    9EC1EECD-0A08-4A0F-841D-4AAF139B567F.jpeg

    And yeah, the ground should be the *longest* of the three mains leads.
     
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  8. Uncle Daddy

    Uncle Daddy Tele-Afflicted

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    The Carling DPDT works well for a 5e3 chassis, bearing in mind some of the lugs will be behind the switch, close to to chassis wall. They don't work well in a Princeton Reverb style of cab as the lugs hit the bottom of the cab-ask me how I know! I much prefer this type, but they're getting hard to find.
    switch.jpg
     
  9. DrPepper

    DrPepper Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks, my memory was wrong... I was thinking bass awkwards...
     
  10. Entropy

    Entropy TDPRI Member

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    Sweet, thanks everyone.

    Two more dumb questions:

    1) What gauge wire should I use if I'm using an IEC socket? I have a heap of 18 gauge stranded in various colours that I got from tube depot at some point; will that work?

    2) I have heaps of these tagstrips: https://www.evatco.com.au/tag-strip-3-way. Are they ok for the dedicated safety ground connection? I can't imagine why it wouldn't work, but thought I should check.

    I've built tonnes of pedals and other low voltage stuff before but this is my first foray into mains wiring, so want to make sure I get it right!
     
  11. Commodore 64

    Commodore 64 Friend of Leo's

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    http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/Grounding.pdf

    "Fig. 15.2: The safety-earth bond should be made to a dedicated screw, close to the mains inlet"


    Your terminal block is probably fine, but those things are fragile as hell, and the only lug I'd u se is the center one in this case.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2021
  12. Commodore 64

    Commodore 64 Friend of Leo's

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    You might have been thinking IEC connector (see above post). And I use those mostly on new builds. In that case, you do want it short, since the actual cord is not hardwired in anywhere.
     
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  13. Entropy

    Entropy TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for this - I didn't realise you could get ring crimp connectors like shown in the PDF, but that exactly answers my question about what to use to make that connection.

    Also sorry, I should have mentioned I was planning on using the IEC socket rather than cord. I'm going to build it as a head unit, as I have a few cabs and power cords at home.
     
  14. Entropy

    Entropy TDPRI Member

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    I spent last night sorting out all the parts I've been collecting for this build over the past few months. The separate shipping really adds up, but I find it much easier to budget for spending small sums over long periods so it worked for me.

    The chassis is this one from Modulus. I like it - it's got a lot of space to work, and will mean the tubes will stand up rather than lying out the back. A few holes needed widening, and I drilled a few extra holes for the safety ground and stand offs but otherwise it's good to go.

    [​IMG]
     
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