Need help with T Nuts for a 2x10 baffle

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by tah1962, Feb 26, 2020.

  1. tah1962

    tah1962 Tele-Afflicted

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    I’m building a 2x10 baffle for my 1x12 cabinet. The baffle is being made using void free 3/4” birch plywood. In looking for t nuts, I’m having trouble finding any with a barrel longer than 7/16”. I assume I need something over a 1/2” so that once the t nut is mounted on the front of the baffle, the barrel is almost flush on the backside of the baffle.

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Also, are there better options than t nuts? Thanks.
     
  2. Jon Snell

    Jon Snell Tele-Meister

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    Lots to choose from here;
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/T-Nuts/b?ie=UTF8&node=1938558031

    A T nut is a captive nut for wood and as long, if you are mounting loudspeakers, there is enough thread to hold the speaker in all will be fine.
    Birch Ply is quite hard and you may need to use force to mount the T nut securely while you bolt your speaker in for the first time..
     
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  3. 1300 E Valencia

    1300 E Valencia Friend of Leo's

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    How long are the bolts? You won't want then poking out too far from the front of the baffle. You'll get holes in the grill cloth.
     
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  4. tah1962

    tah1962 Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks. The bolt length is fine and won’t come through the front to hit the grill cloth. I’m more concerned about having more available thread on the barrel. Baffle is 3/4” think and the longest barrel that I’ve found for 10/32 t nut is 7/16”. I would like the barrel to be as close to flush as possible on the back of the baffle. I don’t think a 7/16” barrel will achieve that.
     
  5. Jon Snell

    Jon Snell Tele-Meister

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    The bolts come from the speaker chassis through the baffle into the T Nuts. The speaker is mounted externally. Have a look at speaker cabinets that are in Music Shops for the fixing method.
     
  6. Jon Snell

    Jon Snell Tele-Meister

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    The strength is in the nut thread and any more than 1/4" is normal for strength.
     
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  7. Jon Snell

    Jon Snell Tele-Meister

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    Screenshot 2020-02-26 at 16.35.31.png Like this
     
  8. schmee

    schmee Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    It doesn't need to go all the way through, just use long enough screws. I haven't seen makers use ones that go all the way through.... except on thinner baffles... which often they are thinner than 3/4.
    BTW, most makers use #8 screws, and even with those some speaker patterns are a tight fit to get on due to variation in the manufacturing process/ hole patterns I guess.

    I personally don't like 3/4" baffles for small 1-2 speaker cabs. woofy bassy was my result.
     
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  9. tah1962

    tah1962 Tele-Afflicted

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  10. jhundt

    jhundt Doctor of Teleocity

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  11. jhundt

    jhundt Doctor of Teleocity

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    I used to strip these things out of all the old stereos/radios I found discarded on the streets. T-nuts work, but they are nowhere near as elegant as these things!
     
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  12. tah1962

    tah1962 Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks @jhundt. I like the looks of these and think they are a better option than t nuts. I’ll give them a try. Thanks again.
     
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  13. schmee

    schmee Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    I use those thread certs occasionally to repair stripped out holes on baffles etc, or for bolt on necks instead of wood screws. But IMHO, for speaker studs T nuts are superior. You wont pull one of those out. I have one baffle with those to hold it in the amp that I pulled the baffle the other day, the thread insert came out on one of four, it had been glued in with thick CA glue, guess I'll try epoxy next time.
     
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  14. koolaide

    koolaide Tele-Holic

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    Use threaded inserts. Just built a cab, looked at T-nuts went with threaded inserts. Nothing to interfere with grill cloth or speaker. no need for batten strips on baffle. Nice clean look and in MHO less likely to strip or come out.
     
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  15. telepraise

    telepraise Tele-Holic

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    I use hex flange threaded inserts, 8-32 with a washer on the bolt. I'm pretty sure its the same thread as what's on the studs in my Fender reissues. I find it helpful that the bolts are a lot smaller than the holes in the speaker frame, as no matter how carefully I measure, things don't always line up perfectly. 1/2" of thread contact is plenty, a typical nut is maybe 1/4" thick.
     
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  16. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    No need for longer T nuts and also no need for such thick and rugged baffle.
    A hard stiff baffle hurts the sound unless it’s a bass cab or a hi fi stereo cab.
     
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  17. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    You know you also need a raised edge so the cloth is not against the baffle right?
    A 1/2” baffle with 1/4” edges so the cloth is 1/4” in front of the baffle surface.
     
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  18. jsnwhite619

    jsnwhite619 Friend of Leo's

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    The length of the t-nut doesn't matter, they are all pretty much a stock size. You just need a screw long enough to reach it and hold. The t-nut holds by digging into the wood on the face of the board. Just measure the total thickness and get screws to match.
     
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  19. Warren Pederson

    Warren Pederson Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    Forstner bit? Take the wood down 1/8?
     
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  20. jhundt

    jhundt Doctor of Teleocity

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    does anyone remember the old special screws that they used to use? Black, countersunk philips-head; at the base of the shaft was a very broad and coarse-thread (was it left-hand thread?) to hold it in the wood baffle. These were screwed through the baffle from the front. Then the rest of the shaft was threaded to accept a machine nut which held the speaker in place. Those were the very best! except they had sharp points at the end of the shaft, and as a careless kid I punctured more than one speaker!
     
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