Need help with reverb tank codes

radiocaster

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I have a Frontman 15G and am interested in modding it into a 15R by adding the tank and extra components.

There seems to be a lot of wrong information on the net, but I think the best match for the tank seems to be 8BB2C1B.

Basically the only thing I'm 100% sure on is that I need an 8****1B, where 8 is the size and number of springs, 1 is no lock, and B is horizontal and open side down.

Now the 2nd and 3rd numbers are the input and output impedances. I'll assume they're correct for now.

The 4th number is obviously the decay. I may want a "3", that is a long decay instead of the "2" medium.

My main question is, could someone explain what the 5th number is about? It deals with the ground and insulation, but I'm not sure what to look for and what I would need, nor how interchangeable they are. I am asking because I found a tank with long decay, but it has a different number in this position than the tank previously mentioned.

I might get the one with medium decay anyway, but I am curious about this.
 

Wally

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I feel a flint pedal would solve all and more. Seriously can’t tell the difference between it and actual spring verb

+1….an outboard solid state reverb makes more sense than modifying a little SS amp, imho……you could use the Strymon with any amp you play through. A solid state spring reverb doesn’t sound like a tube spring reverb, anyway.
 

mrriggs

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The MOD reverb tanks have these little solder pads for grounding the jack. You can pretty much ignore the code and ground it however you need. If it's not grounded and should be then add a solder blob. If it is grounded and you want it isolated then suck up the solder blob.

RandallAmp02.jpg
 

red57strat

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I just replaced the reverb tank in a Fender Princeton 112+ solid state amp. It had an 8EB2C1B in it. Your amp may take the same one. I bought a replacement Mod tank from Antique Electronic Supply. They have a few articles on them in the Tech Articles page on their site.
 

radiocaster

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I just replaced the reverb tank in a Fender Princeton 112+ solid state amp. It had an 8EB2C1B in it. Your amp may take the same one. I bought a replacement Mod tank from Antique Electronic Supply. They have a few articles on them in the Tech Articles page on their site.
That's a good point. 8*B2C1B seems to be correct for that amp, but the input impedance recommendation seems to vary according to different people.

I've seen 8BB... 8EB.. 8DB...

and also some obvious mistakes like a D at the end when the orientation is obvious, and a number and letter changed in order.
 

red57strat

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Do you have access to the service manual? The one for the Princeton 112+ had the reverb tank number in it.
 

red57strat

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I just checked- the Frontman 15 Service manual says "REVERB SPRING 1BB2E4A". The same as many other Fender amps. I didn't see a service manual for the 15G.
 

radiocaster

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Do you have access to the service manual? The one for the Princeton 112+ had the reverb tank number in it.
Ah, ok. 1BB2E4A

I have the second version of the 15G, the first version of the 15R may have had the tank connected to the bottom of the chassis, which would explain the A at the end.

Assuming they're using the same code.
 
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Phrygian77

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How would that help my tinkering goals?

If you’re in a tinkering mood, gut that sucker and wire in a Champ reverb tube amp.

Nah, I like the distortion on this one. I'll probably change the speaker and add a speaker out.

So build your own better version. It's essentially just a bunch of op amps with a monolithic IC for the output. That 'distortion' circuit looks basically like a Tuber Screamer.
 
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