Tele_Tom64
TDPRI Member
Are you having dead spots and lots of rattle without bending? If so, to me that just sounds like frets are not level, or the neck has negative relief (back bow).
But if this is while bending-
Are your other guitars 7.25in radius? That limits how far you can bend before cutting out compared to a flatter radius.
At what fret does this start? I find my guitars need some "fall off" in the upper frets, starting above fret 17 or so, to avoid cutting out. I do this by building up extra tape a few frets back so the file rests at an angle, then gently file. Each higher fret becomes slightly lower.
There's a phenomenon called "tongue rise" with bolt on necks where the wood might swell a bit near the end, requiring this kind of extra angle when leveling. But I found it helps new necks, too.
I suggest reading up on set up., and esp. relief. I find I can only lower the action if I have the neck nearly flat. A quick way to measure: Holding down the G or D string at frets 1 and 16, then pressing the string right on top of fret 8 shows how big or tiny the gap, and therefore how much relief there is.
I don't like using that anymore. Too much of a difference between doing that and checking with a notched straight edge on the neck or standard straight edge on the frets.
Strings said I had almost no relief while the straight edge said different. Strings, even that short, can and apparently do droop enough to affect what you perceive to be your relief. Straight edges, even unnotched, don't droop.
Considering we're working with up to 0.012" or 0.31mm, there's not a lot there to lose to droop.
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