Neck relief tools

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by portside, Jan 29, 2019.

  1. portside

    portside TDPRI Member

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    Wow, thanks to you all- that was quick; great tips & suggestions! Already have the capo, feelers, copy paper & picked up an edge ruler. I'll continue learning about it before trying it out on my Squier & where I'm not so concerned about first time user error.

    Again thanks for all the help, any other suggestions are welcome.
     
  2. jhundt

    jhundt Doctor of Teleocity

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    can't remember, jim, it is just something that Fender guitar players have been saying since forever.
     
  3. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Could be the suggestion that Leo hid the truss nut so hobbyists wouldn't mess with it is a result of all the internet posts saying stuff like: "I keep tightening the nut and the action just gets worse and worse", or: "I tightened it up but now it doesn't seem to turn, plus the allen wrench looks kinda rounded on the end".
     
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  4. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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    I think it was more of a manufacturing decision.
     
  5. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    For someone who's not practiced at the 'feel' method, use the capo, string-as-straight-edge method with a feeler gauge.

    Personally, I have difficulty with both 'feel' and the feeler methods due to a neurological problem. For necks who's frets are known to be at least pretty good, I use a machined straightedge (really straight, .003" over 18"). Lay it on the frets, and use the feeler.
     
  6. teleplayr

    teleplayr Tele-Afflicted

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    I've only used a 6" machinist rule, tool for truss rod adjustment and my eyes.

    I was curious once and broke out my feeler gauges, capo, ruler and used the directions that Fender & Gibson recommended on their websites. (This was after using my method for over 30 years).

    After using their recommended methods I found my action was actually lower than their spec's, with no fret rattle.

    I fret the "E" String at the first & last fret and look for the distance between the string and the top of the frets about mid point. I set my action at 2/32's at the last fret.

    That method has worked for me for years.

    I have a friend who's a professional luthier and asked him to check out my adjustments years ago and he told me it was all fine.
     
  7. brookdalebill

    brookdalebill Tele Axpert Ad Free Member

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    I just eyeball it, too.
    I sight the treble (high E) side of the neck.
    The high E will be under tension, so it will be straight.
    If the neck is concave with respect to the high E, I tighten the trussrod till the neck is straight.
    I do the inverse if it’s convex.
    I like my necks dead straight, with heavier strings, and high higher action than most folks I know.
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2019
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