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Discussion in 'Other T-Types and Partscasters' started by Rick C., Oct 11, 2019.
That red white and blue finish looks fantastic!
Thanks so much. Done with Rustoleum 2x on Sycamore? body from Muslady. The body was not good enough to make it look good so I had to make it look bad.
Thanks. One Tele I have may wind up having something similar to yours. I'll keep it in mind. Good job!
I do have one Q: Where did you find a 24.75" scaled maple neck? (I don't necessarily need one, but I like that idea).
It was off of an old Peavey Patriot...hence the red, white and blue.
Thanks, again preactor! I had seen a used Peavey Patriot neck for sale but couldn't find the scale length. (I asked the Seller but they didn't respond). You've given me more ideas. Awesome.
Shaping the neck is easier and you will get a snug fit. Also, those necks are inexpensive.
Years ago I replaced a fender fretless neck with a mighty mite fretted one. The might mite was wider so I took of about 2mm of wood from the neck. It was for a project and did not want to spend much $ to get the job done. Happy I did not mangle the body as the lovely fretless neck is back on the mim jazz body as should be.
If you look back on page one, you'll see where I have to rout out the neck pocket (marked in pencil on masking tape). This was my first mock up, a guesstimate. It might have to be fully routed through the wood, but I may be able to leave some of the curvature. This would allow for a better (snug) fit.
I have a Mighty Mite Tele neck that is probably like you described = just a bit too wide.
But with my Washburn neck, I'm dealing with curvature on the sides of the neck = it has a more pronounced angle than a Strat neck.
I recently got a small "Drill Master" router at Harbour Freight. If I'm not mistaken, someone from TDPRI recommended it for routing cavities. I've never used a router, but have Tool & Die/ machinist experience. I'll practice on some spare wood, then rout the neck pocket.
It could turn out I'll just reshape the neck. But at this point I can't tell what would be best. Overall, I'd rather not mess with the neck (as I mentioned before = it could mess up string alignment). But thanks for your input!
A flat piece of wood half the width of the neck pocket with some 80 grit paper glued to the side rock it backwards and forwards in the pocket alternating between both sides
until that neck fits if you start taking anything off the neck it might end up with a alignment issue
plus a neck pocket is easy enough to shim up if you go too far
Most fender style guitars will have a little bit of give in the pockect to allow for moving the neck left-right to get good alignment. You can acheive this by slightly oversizing the pocket or sanding the neck. I am not a fan of super snug fits and I don't thin fenders are designged to have one. Those 4 screws exert a lot of force on there own.
Mod the neck pocket, not the neck...for many reasons, most of which boil down to "common sense."
Agreed. I'm making preparations to do it (may see if a Dremel will work to rout the pocket heel, but I have a router for that too).
BUT BEFORE I do anything, however, I'll use the original neck to align the [new] bridge = neither the original neck--nor bridge--will be used on this guitar.
Seems like I mentioned I'll be going to a guy's place to borrow his drill press for drilling bridge holes. Thus, this project won't be done real soon + I'm in the process of moving.
Obviously, the bridge alignment has top priority for now!