Hi all, I'm working on my first DIY tele build (thanks for all of the great past posts for help!), and I need some advice on the initial setup. I'm following along with Freeman Keller's basic setup thread, and I'm paused at the neck geometry step. When I put a straight edge on the frets to see where the "fret plane" hits the bridge, I'm still above the saddles in their lowest position. FK's guide recommends that the straight edge just touches the top of the saddles, so I'm a bit high by about 1/8 inch. I have checked the tightness of the neck screws, and even lightly sanded the neck and the body joint to make sure the contact with smooth. The neck is an Allparts TRO-C (10" radius, C shape, 0.85-0.95 in. thick with rosewood board), the body is a swamp ash body from bayviewmusic on ebay (3"x 2-3/16"x 5/8" neck pocket), and the bridge is a Gotoh nickel vintage style bridge with the cut-down sides and 3 compensated brass saddles. I confirmed the 5/8" depth of the neck pocket and the 0.95 in. neck thickness at the neck joint with calipers. I have the truss rod loosened completely and I have confirmed there's no forward bow in the neck (and no back bow to the best that I can tell). At first, I thought it might be good enough and went ahead and leveled the frets. When I went to start the setup, I had to raise the bridge saddles a lot to make sure the strings didn't buzz in the upper frets (12th fret and above). I haven't gotten to anything with the nut yet. Given how much I had to raise all of the saddles to stop the buzzing, I decided to pause and ask for help. How do I go about getting the right neck angle/fret plane height? Should I reverse shim it to raise the angle? Should I induce a forward bow by tightening the truss rod? Should I sand down the back of the neck heel and/or the floor of the neck joint to keep the same angle and lower it by removing material? Thanks for any advice!