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My turn. How do I...

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by bender66, Mar 22, 2017.

  1. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    ... or, more importantly, how would you get this finish?
    image.jpg
    I see a slightly darker brown/burst around the edge? That's all.

    Here's my victim. A beautiful PGK kit with matching neck.
    image.jpg
     
  2. Mr Green Genes

    Mr Green Genes Tele-Afflicted

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    It looks to me like a burnt finish- the wood is scorched with a blowtorch, then sanded back. The softer veins in the wood burn deeper than the harder veins, so sanding the surface takes the harder areas back to the natural color, but the softer areas stay dark. I sure wouldn't do that with the body you have, though.

    If you have a scrap of the same wood as the body, you could try dying it a dark brown, then sanding it back and applying a lighter amber dye. The two-step dye process is sometimes used on flamed or quilted maple, but I don't think that body is a good candidate for that, either. Both techniques depend on varying densities in the wood in order to be effective.

    I would just maybe use a very light amber or brown dye, maybe a subtle medium shade bursting around the edges, then either use a coat of fresh shellac and top it off with some nitro or hit it with some Tru Oil. Either of these will bring out the grain and figuring in the wood. French Polish might be another option.
     
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  3. Henry

    Henry Tele-Holic

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    Or a dilute solution of black Japan and solvent?
     
  4. Mr Green Genes

    Mr Green Genes Tele-Afflicted

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    Here's a pine board that has been burnt and sanded back

    th.jpg
     
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  5. Henry

    Henry Tele-Holic

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    And a dark burst round the perimeter...
     
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  6. Axis29

    Axis29 Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    I'd say they stained it with a black stain, sanded it back to enhance the grain and then did the black burst around the edge.

    That's a cool looking blank you got, by the way!
     
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  7. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'll disagree with all of the above respectfully, except Henry's part about the black spray around the edge.
    However that burst could have been rubbed into the edge on bare wood with layers of finish on top but looks too opaque to me to have been done this way.

    Limba/Ofram will darken almost to the color in the center of your first picture with a simple clear finish. I say almost because I see just a hint of amber in that picture which could be lighting or a slightly yellowing cured finish. The outside edge is just a black edge burst of an opaque black sprayed with a fine detail gun or an air brush.

    Here's how I'd do it:
    Sand 320. Grain raise. 2 or 3 times ultimately sanding to 400. 2 coats of clear shellac then scuff sanding 400, 1 coat of amber shellac. 400 scuffing 1 thin coat of Nitro or Poly.
    After that coat of clear dries I would tint some clear shellac with mixol black opaque pigment and spray the burst on the edges.
    --Wait WHY would I use Shellac again at this point?
    --reason:If I screw up the burst I can wipe it off with Denatured alcohol and start over. Once I have it as I want it I then would go back to the clear.
    So during those last few layers of clear you can tint those amber (depending on the type of clear) if there isn't enough of that golden look to it.

    In a completely different direction Tru-Oil provides that Golden Glow very nicely and looks awesome on Ofrem/Limba I did a Limba bass using shellac as the sealer coats and TO as the clear and has a very nice finish. TO doesn't tint very easily so you could after the TO dries do the shellac burst thing and then still top with nitro or more TO.

    Lastly if you decide to grain fill try Crystolac clear filler or CA. Limba can take on the dyes and tints of regular pore fillers with not so nice results. It takes some additional prep using sealers to avoid those issues.

    Good luck, post some more pics!
     
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  8. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thanks for that breakdown Dr. & all the replies.

    I had the CA in mind already because I didn't want anything to affect the already great color of the wood. The neck & body are incredible & I got them at a stupid price.

    I like the idea of using the shellac as insurance at that stage too. I also see a slight hint of amber or something a little warmer in there. I like it.

    This might be a good reason to sort out my airbrushes that I've never used.

    I'll get some daylight pics tomorrow. This thing looks incredible in person.
     
  9. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    I swear I just saw a similar finish on a strat body when I Googled how to spray a burst.

    It was on stewmac. Hmmm.

    Here it is...
    http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online

    Erick Coleman taped paper to the top and bottom, off the face just slightly to allow the border to feather over the edges.

    It's exactly what I'd like to try, tho with different colors.
     
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  10. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Your link doesn't work.

    Is it this?
    http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Onlin...w_to_spray_a_sunburst_using_aerosol_cans.html

    * I think that's right. I like the paper trick. Good stuff.

    Looking at my original image closely, the bevels of the SG shape get the dark burst, not the top, until the bevels disappear at the lower/rear bout of the body where there are no bevels.

    SG's are kind of a complex body, 'eh?
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2017
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  11. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Sorry about the link. I don't get along well with TDPRI when I'm accessing thru my phone...something always gets lost when I try to do the cut and paste.

    But you did find the article I was referring to.

    The Dr.'s suggestion to use tinted shellac would probably work to get the burst as you'd like. Any overspray past the bevels could be cleaned up with alcohol, right?
     
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  12. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Natural light.
    image.jpg
    image.jpg
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    image.jpg
    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017
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  13. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    image.jpg
    image.jpg
    DrAsat- I've recently gotten linseed oil based paint to tint tru-oil. Have you ever tried it?

    I used some old TO to tint though, even ran it through a coffee filter. I need to test it on scrap.

    The Warmoth image looks very subtle though. Don't know how much amber I could get to show on this wood.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2017
  14. Axis29

    Axis29 Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    That body and neck is bee-you-tee-full!

    I cannot wait ot see the finished product!
     
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  15. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Mentally compiling a list here.

    Beyond initial sanding prep would you grain fill neck & body seperate or glue them up before grain filling?

    My thinking is grain fill seperate, masking off the neck pocket/neck heel & glue after as to not get glue in/on raw wood that would mess up taking a finish after.
     
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  16. beezerboy

    beezerboy Tele-Meister

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    sweet bit 'o wood there.... very nice
     
  17. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'm really liking the images of Tru oil & black limba.
    image.jpg
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    image.jpg image.jpg
    Never realized there was a rear image of my initial post.
    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
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  18. piece of ash

    piece of ash Friend of Leo's

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    Your choice of clear aside, you have large open cells in that grain. Black TIMBERMATE would do much to accent those cells.

    1) Mix black TIMBERMATE with water until you have a smooth slurry... about like pancake batter.
    2) Rub this mix ACROSS the grain everywhere... don't get it in cavities and such. Use a rag, a thumb, playing card, credit card, etc...
    3) Apply another coat after a few hours if the cells are not filled entirely... your guitar will be black at this point.
    4) Starting with 150 grit and ending with 320 grit, sand away the excess filler to your liking. You will see the original color of the wood return, but with the pores black.

    Stain over it... stain under it... oil... lacquer... whatever. But, fill the grain, and make it pop. Play with it a bit... perfect your technique on another piece of wood... like mahogany. And this is all reversible... and repairable.
     
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  19. bender66

    bender66 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thank you for all the steps POA.

    I have the feeling this is already going to darken a lot though. Black Timbermate for sealer might be getting too dark for my taste.
    *after entering the search engine wormhole I think you're onto something with black timbermate POA.

    I'll swipe it with some naptha soon & take a pic to give me some idea.
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2017
  20. piece of ash

    piece of ash Friend of Leo's

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    Actually, timbermate wont really seal at all... it is transmissive... rather than blocking. There are some youtubes about timbermate... worth a look. One common comment is that so much less clearcoat is required. It really won't act like a stain in terms of color.
     
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