my project today (buffing station)

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by dougk, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    Stayed a bit late at the shop today to start putting this together.

    [​IMG]

    and with the covers off
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Basically I mounted the drive motor on a board that attaches to the cab with door hinges. The weight of the motor tensions the belt, seems to be working pretty well.

    I have to pick up a 3 step pulley for the motor tomorrow and the wheels and compounds should be showing up any day now.
     
  2. Shepherd

    Shepherd Friend of Leo's

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    That's a wicked idea putting the motor on the bottom. Saves a ton of space. Thanks. [​IMG] Might have to add some weight or bolt it down to stabalize it but great idea.
    Did you get that from Grizzly? With a 3/4" shaft the biggest pads they have are 10", I was hoping to get one of the bigger pads but they are all 1 1/4". Might have to try it with these but I wonder if that's safe.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    You can actually use these to adapt up to the 1 1/4" bushed wheels. Thats what I (just) did. I did get the arbor from Grizzly (about time I made use of the catalogs they send to us all the time).

    Yep a little extra balast if needed in the base is already planned for.
     
  4. Shepherd

    Shepherd Friend of Leo's

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    [​IMG][​IMG]Awesome! I must have spent an hour on their site trying to find those. Thanks
    Any tips on what to use for that setup like pad size or do I need a set for rough polish and a set for final polish? It says max size is 10" but could you go bigger if you use a pedestal setup like yours?
     
  5. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    I'm using 12" wheels because I thought 17's might be to much load on those bearings. We'll see though (also I am a bit tight for space).

    As far as wheels and such go- Im a total noob to the buffing wheel process so I wouldn't listen to my advice beyond that point lol.
     
  6. Shepherd

    Shepherd Friend of Leo's

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    Hey Doug, thanks for the great idea. I just finished mine based on your design and it saves a ton of space. The belt was flopping around quite a bit so I had to make up a tensioner for it. I was going to use the 17" wheels but I was over at Grizzly the other day and was told to stick with 10's cause the bearings cant take it. I got the 12's anyway, see how it goes.
    View attachment 19970

    DSC00044.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2009
  7. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    That came out fantastic!! Were twins now!!

    A couple pictures of mine in action
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I have 12's right now too but Im ordering the 17's. Even if it wears the bearings out, first off the ones on there aren't that great at all and secondly I can get better (Timkin) replacements from my autoparts house. When I get ready to buff out my current batch of firebirds Im going to need the extra room.

    But I went with the 12's for the exact reason... thought 17's would be stressing the bearings quite a bit.
     
  8. tdowns

    tdowns Former Member

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    Absolutely brilliant. I wish I had thought about that when I made mine.

    [​IMG]

    One thing I'll pass along about mine...after using it a while, I thought my belt was slipping. Buffing a project with pressure would slow down the buffs. I tightened it 6-ways-to-Sunday to try to make it work. It turned out the belt pulley inside the arbor had loosened. I assumed it came from Stewmac tight. It's a good thing to check.

    That Coral Tele is a beauty. Thanks for sharing.
     
  9. Shepherd

    Shepherd Friend of Leo's

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    Wait a minute, paint yours white and they are the same arbor. Stewmac must use the same manufacturer. Definitely check all the set screws. I forgot to mention that. When I first started mine up there was a clunking sound. The pulley set screw was loose. I checked the bearing retainer set screws and on one side both were stripped and the bearing was walking. I returned that arbor for another and loctited all the set screws. Funny thing when I first started it up, all these threads came flying off the buffing wheels. For a minute there I felt like I was in a parade. :eek:
     
  10. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    Oh man, that first hour or so till the wheels get broken in is miserable. I walked out of the garage looking like one of the foster farms chickens!

    Honestly, Im thinking about calling a metal fab buddy of mine and see if I can have him cut me a 1 1/4 shaft that is about 6" wider on both sides. Have him cut the threads and put some GOOD bearings in it.

    Course... Im probably over engineering it. Frankly, its working just fine as it sits now.
     
  11. tdowns

    tdowns Former Member

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    Come on now. You should feel obligated to the TDPRI to post the chicken pictures!!! :eek::lol:
     
  12. Home Grown Tele

    Home Grown Tele Tele-Holic

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    Doug you dog!! Making your dad buff his own guitar. :twisted:

    How come you didn't post that pic over at the Ranch?? Or did you and I missed it??
     
  13. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    I did! It might have gotten lost in the server crash. He wanted to buff it I swear! Its actually *fun* now (compared to before LOL).
     
  14. treadwm

    treadwm Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for posting this, Doug. I've been searching the forum for a buffing solution like this.
     
  15. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    Well I thought I'd update this, did some reworking on my arbor today. Since I switched to acrylic I learned the hard way that I needed to slow the buffer down some, I was getting checking from the heat generated at the speed it was running. There we're other contributing factors but I always wished I could slow the buffer down another 1-200 rpm but was limited on the pulley sizes. I've also been wanting to move up to the 17" wheels to get some more access inside the horns.

    The problem was moving to 17" wheels would increase the tip speed. I did some math (thank you google) and was coming up with the following:

    Figuring a motor RPM of 1750 shaft speed (current motor) of ~900 rpm:

    Tip speed of a 14" wheel: 55 feet per second
    Tip speed of a 17" wheel: 66.7333333 feet per second

    If we could get the motor to 1200 rpm figuring a 1:2 reduction in rpm (~600rpm)
    Tip speed of a 14" wheel: 36.6666667 feet per second
    Tip speed of a 17" wheel: 44.44 feet per second

    So I did some looking around, thinking I could add a layshaft to add an extra pulley to help slow things down. The problem with this was lots of added parts, most likely rebuilding the station all together ect. Then started looking at DC motors with controllers but we're talking big bucks (1k+).

    Finally I just dug deep through the Grainger catalog and came up with the PERFECT motor. Here's the link to Grainger. 100 bucks and even though I ordered this one it actually was a 1/2hp which is even better.

    :edit: get the 1/2 HP motor. Also, add a fan blade to it so it has continuous airflow. After a couple hours of straight use mine over heated.

    So besides having a shaft RPM of 1100 vs 1750 (HUGE improvement right there) it also had a 1/2" shaft instead of a 5/8". I found an 1.5" pulley to fit which helps slow it even more.

    Now I have 2 arbor speeds that seem to work very effectively, using a 1.5" pulley and the middle 3" pulley on the arbor Im getting 550rpm and on the 4" pulley Im getting 415rpm.

    So recalculating tip speed:
    @ 415 rpm: 30.8 FPS
    @ 550 rpm: 41 FPS

    both of which are just about perfect it seems like. So those of you using a similar setup I'd seriously consider this motor!

    Here's a picture
    [​IMG]

    8)

    :edit 2: I am completely enamored with this setup. I buffed 22 guitars in Dec' with it and its absolutely perfect. The speed is great, the size of the wheels are fantastic.
     
  16. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    I like your buffer it looks so nice and neat. I built one a couple years ago I hope to buff a guitar next week I’ll get some pics up. The only suggestion I might give you on mine on all the square corners I put that self stick foam pipe insulation on them just spread them open and stuck them on. I also use 12” wheels I bought 4 and doubled up each side after buffing a couple guitars I found one wheel per side works better. I also have a 4 step sheave, my motor 1750 RPM I still think I could slow it down so I think I’ll look into that Grainger motor. I know after I built mine I took all my guitars apart and re-buffed them. Once again nice job on the buffer
     
  17. dougk

    dougk Tele-Holic

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    Dave- absolutely spot on about the foam. I've done similar since those pictures.

    Hey make sure you come out to the Guitar-B-Que / Jam Night we're hosting in the shop on 4/24. :D
     
  18. SacDAve

    SacDAve Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    Can you give me some more specific information about Jam night sounds like it might be fun? Be forewarned I’m dynamite on the table saw but just a balloon popping on the finger board.
     
  19. Shepherd

    Shepherd Friend of Leo's

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    Holy crap those wheels are huge. If you left the faster motor in there it would probably get lift-off :p.
     
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