My first build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by emann, Feb 22, 2020.

  1. ping-ping-clicka

    ping-ping-clicka Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    hi, welcome aboard matey. :cool:
    this is the place , 'fer sure fer sure
    I am constantly amazed at the knowledge here and how freely it is shared.
    just remember...o_O no sex , no drugs,:mad: no wine, no women, no arguing, :confused:or you'll be speaking with the first :eek:mate
    and no religion! no philosophy , no potty mouth either, there are children about. and :Drelax and have a:p great time:lol:
     
  2. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I build from the Tdowns pdf that you can download from this site (the one Marty posted). Take the pdf on a thumb drive to someone with a D sized printer - an engineer, architect or a large office supply store. Get four or five copies printed. Check a couple of measurement to make sure the scaling worked when it was printed.

    I glued one copy on a piece of MDF and cut that out to be my body template. I drilled the neck and bridge holes thru the template so I can transfer them to my body. I start by establishing a center line on my body but there is nothing sacred about this - if my neck pocket ends up a smige off then the center line shifts. But it gives me a starting point.

    I route the neck pocket and built my neck at the same time - I make sure they fit each other. I shoot for the Fender standard (the Tdowns drawing seems to be correct) but there is a little wiggle in my shop - the important thing is they fit each other. At this point I have done nothing with the pickups or bridge.

    I put the neck in the pocket and either clamp is securely or screw it in place. I put straight edges on each side of the neck and draw lines extending the neck to the bridge area. The scale length on a telecaster is 25.5 inched - I measure that from the face of the nut (or the slot) and draw a line. My picture before showed it, here is another one

    IMG_3608.JPG

    I took this picture when I was double checking the edges of the fretboard, imagine that the cavities and holes aren't there. In the picture I'm measuring between the straight edges, dividing in half and that establishes the center line (do the same at the end of the neck).

    Even tho the plans give locations for the mounting screws on the bridge I don't use them. My pocket might be deeper or shallower than the plans, my neck might be different. What I know is the bridge MUST be a certain distance from the nut for correct intonation and playability. It can vary with bridges, but for most tele style bridge the mounting holes are 25.750 +/- 0.030 from the face of the nut. That puts the most forward adjustment of the bridge at the scale length - compensation always adds to the length of the string. You should be able to put your bridge at that location and measure from the nut to confirm. The picture in my last post showed two lines running across the guitar - the first is the scale length (25.5), the second is the mounting holes for the bridge (25.75)

    If you use a different scale or bridge all of this might change - I can direct you to help if you are doing something else. The StewMac fret calculator also has a little wizard to help locate the bridges that they sell

    https://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator

    Try running it for 21 frets, 25.5 scale electric guitar and look down at the bridge locations.

    There is a second part of this whole geometry thing, that is the angle of the neck and the amount that it standard proud of the body. Those things work together to determine if you can set the action all the way down the neck to be playable to your standards. Fenders are quite easy compared to some guitars but the principal is the same for all of them. I want the fret plane when extended to the bridge to be at the very lowest possible setting of the bridge adjustments - that will give you enough travel in the adjustment to get good action and not be ant the limits. I did a little discussion of neck geometry here

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/building-for-playability.991659/

    last but far from least, it is not too early to thing about setting up your guitar because everything you do now will affect your ability to do that. You might like to read thru how I do it

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/basic-setup.952636/
     
  3. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I'll give you one more link, this is a scratch build of a chambered tele style guitar. I did not put an f-hole on it because I think they look silly on a fender guitar, but thats just me. I think I show most of the steps building the neck and routing the body - the neck pocket is more or less to Fender standards. The guitar was built from the Tdown plans, the chambering is mine. Back access to the electronics, a bit of binding...

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/a-chambered-tele-ish-sort-of-thing.884657/

    Page 3 gets into laying out the bridge location and drilling the holes
     
  4. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    I've previously compared the T Downs pdf to the Thinline pdf I posted and they are pretty much spot on to each other. The T Downs is accurate for bridge placement so as Freeman suggested you should get it printed out. It will clear up a lot of your questions I think. If you don't have it here it is.
     

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  5. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    Hi and thanks once again to all.

    So I am attaching a picture of the bridge I plan to use as well as a schematic to ensure up to which line from the nut I should measure the 25.5" scale length. I have also indicated this query on the telebody rev E drawing.

    Sorry to be a pain but I hope this now clarifies for me this important dimension of 25.5" location...i perfectly understand from centre of neck nut but not sure on which part of the bridge then this refers to.

    Hope you can answer and that I finally GET IT!!!

    Thanks so much to all
     

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  6. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    That is a modern style bridge and I doubt the holes will match up with the drawings. What I would do is find the centerline of the neck to the body. I set the neck into the body and measure back from the nut edge to determine the scale length measurement. Then I would move the saddles about 90% forward of their travel. The break over point on the saddles ( top dead center) would go right on the scale length measurement. The extra 10% is fudge factor and gives you a little forward travel if you need it. Holding the bridge there, I'd mark the holes and then punch and drill them. You can also measure the width of the bridge and measure out half from the centerline to mark the position as well. Look at the pictures here in the thread I attached. You can see how the straight edges determine the scale length point, and how the protractor is used to get a line there perpendicular to the centerline of the body.

    see post 129 and beyond in this thread I did. The neck is attached here to the body.

    https://www.tdpri.com/threads/the-1...ed-ten-years-later.978623/page-7#post-9364784
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2020
  7. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    The line you are pointing to are the screw holes for a vintage/standard Tele bridge. The scale length is measured from the front (bridge side) of the nut to the middle of the saddles. I used the same style bridge on my last Tele build and it is a touch different. I use Marty's method and move the saddles forward about 3/4 of the way and measure from there. That gives you room to adjust for intonation.
     
  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    just to be fussy... you mean the point of the saddle that the string breaks over
     
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  9. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    ok...seems I now fully understood...taking also on board your comment of the modern style bridge...so i looked up for a vintage bridge that I knew I had somewhere in the drawers since this is a 69 and not a modern tele!

    hence note the attached:

    1. set full travel of saddle forward
    2. set approx 3/4 travel of saddle forward
    3. measure scale length 25.5" from front of nut (bridge side) to 3/4 saddle point
    4. mark and punch holes
    5. drill holes

    Your confirmation to this should hopefully close this mystery to me.

    look forward for the reply and once again thanks a lot
     

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  10. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Yep, that's what you want to do. The holes to the second bridge should match up to the holes in the Terry Downs Rev e drawing we all linked to you. The vintage bridge has more travel than the modern bridges due to the size of the saddles, as you can probably see. Make sure you accurately make a centerline and reference the bridge to that too.
     
  11. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Have you read my links yet?

    ps - if you had you would see that I have used Gotoh "modern" tele style bridges located per the StewMac calculator. If you look at the dimensions for a Gotoh bridge you will see that the mounting holes are 2.90 inches from the front of the plate, the traditional bridge is 2.879. Thats 0.021 difference, about the diameter of a D string.
     
    Last edited: Mar 4, 2020
  12. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    thanks.

    @FreemanKeller: not yet...hope I have some time this evening and thanks to all for your assistance.
     
  13. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    You bet Marty. Thanks.
     
  14. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    in preparing for the template, i plan to use my sander on its side clamped to a table. what kind of sandpaper roughness do you use on 6mm mdf panel. I usually finish solid wood with my orbital sander and I am aware that a beld sander can eat a lot..so being a bit weary as to grit i should use when finishing the edges of the mdf to the final template size.

    any recommendations pls.
     
  15. mkster

    mkster Tele-Afflicted

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    I don't like Mdf , because its hard to work with . I would try a rasp . I have seen so many people wasting time on mdf ...

    I always do it in two steps master template made of masonite because its really easy to work by hand (mostly rasp and finish with sand paper ), and precise .

    Then i use the masonite master to make a working template out of Mdf with the router. This one for convenience at least 5/8 because of the router bits needs it for the bearing .
     
  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Use a good quality plywood.
     
  17. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    so....started preparing found the pine and trimmed the edges roughly

    IMG_20200307_151711580.jpg

    planing surfaces and squaring up:

    IMG_20200307_151724051.jpg IMG_20200307_152015386.jpg

    then started the top from an 18mm piece of pine and marked it up to resaw...by hand:

    IMG_20200308_172102978.jpg IMG_20200308_173723457.jpg

    and a complete disaster:

    IMG_20200308_183303251.jpg

    Started with four cuts on the table saw which goes about 50mm deep all around...then continued by hand and apart of the fatigue in my shoulder it is definitely what I am not going to do on the actual one....any ideas of how you resaw your wood that gets you decent results...or perhaps I should go out and look to buy an amateur bandsaw.
     
  18. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I would have done the resawing by a ripping cut on each side of the board with a featherboard holding it against the fence. A few inches deep on each edge. Then use your handsaw to saw through the much thinner section. Ive done it this way with some walnut.

     
  19. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    oh i note that he is using a reciprocating saw...that should be much better than sawing by hand i reckon!

    thanks and will try it on my next sample
     
  20. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Your font size is getting hard to read..
     
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