My first build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by emann, Feb 22, 2020.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  2. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    thanks to reply.

    re the control plate that was going to be another query from my side...I was thinking that i have to buy a control panel and disassemble the plate to install knobs and switch on the pickguard...

    the pickguard i am getting is this type as attached...can you please indicate if I need to buy some other form of assembly for this type of thinline pickguard please?
     

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  3. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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  4. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    great and thanks for the link...looking at the website I also found this:

    https://www.axesrus.co.uk/TeleWiringThinline-p/arutelassthin.htm

    Since I already have another pickguard already available this would be the assembly I would require right? I would then need the knobs and the switch cover I reckon.

    Also another query - do i need shielding paint..some say to use it and many other assemblies are then without it..and advise here please?
     
  5. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    That would be a tele thinline control set. You may need nuts, trim washers, and lock washers too, as the pic doesn't now them. Knobs too. Get the right knobs for the pots. There are US and Metric sizes.
     
  6. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    thankyou.

    another query: is the inner part visible through the f-hole painted in some way before the top cover is glued to the back or is it left as bare wood on the thinlines please?

    if yes, any idea what colour is used when the guitar is butterscotch blonde?
     
  7. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I think it probably depends on who is the builder. Looks clear here:

    https://reverb.com/item/30373346-fender-telecaster-thinline-1974-natural

    https://reverb.com/item/31725678-fender-telecaster-thinline-1976-sunburst

    http://www.es-335.com/2014/05/08/sloppy-paint/
     
  8. OldDude2

    OldDude2 Tele-Afflicted

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    Hey Y'all - Welcome
     
  9. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I don't "paint" the insides of any of my guitars but when I do an f-hole that is where I locate the builder's label. I also mask the insides of the f-hole before I close the box so I don't get overspray inside. You can removing the masking tape by breaking it loose around the edges (I use a dental tool called an "explorer") and pushing it inside, then fish it out thru the hole(s).
     
  10. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    from the templates I printed from the pdf I note that the light grey items are almost faded that I cannot discern them.

    Also I have some queries as to which holes on the bridge I need to work with and if I need to take any measurements to be able to locate the correct set.

    Can you please have a look at the attached to better understand the question.
     

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  11. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Use the dimensions off of this drawing, which is the Tdowns Revision E drawing up in the sticky on the main page. the link is post 585.

    Really you should probably have the bridge you are going to use available before you drill holes.




    tele.png
     
  12. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Look at the page labelled Thinline and it's the one you want.

    As Marty said, get your bridge first. Generally the templates have an index of the different colored positions - in your case the string through holes - but this one doesn't. Having the bridge will answer your question.
     

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  13. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    However, let me add one comment to what Marty and Richard just said. The drawings give very accurate measurements for both the bridge location and the neck pocket configuration. If you are like me you can't build to thousands of an inch accuracy. The relationship between the neck in its pocket and the location of the bridge are absolutely critical to the guitar working correctly when it is finished.

    I built my body and neck more or less simultaneously and get the fit perfect. THEN I locate the bridge relative to the neck - if the centerline of the neck is off by half a degree relative to the body no one will know, if its off a half a degree relative to the bridge you have a nightmare.

    I always have the actual bridge I'm going to use in my hands when I start building. Not so much that there are difference between bridges (there might be) but I like to put the bridge on top of the guitar and take a straight edge and check and double check and triple check the geometry and finally after checking it again, drill the holes.

    Here is a guitar under construction. The neck is built and fitted to the pocket, I'm locating the bridge relative to the scale and fret plane. The bridge is sitting on the work bench so I can double check wit it

    IMG_4688.JPG

    By placing the straight edge on each side of the neck you can establish the true centerline
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2020
    Jim_in_PA likes this.
  14. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    One more thought. Most of the commercial templates for routing cavities have center lines etched into them and at least a couple of counter sunck screw holes that are usually mounting holes. I use the StewMac bridge cavity template and screw it to the top with two of the mounting screws which are located as per my last post

    [​IMG]
     
  15. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for all the details. Need some more clarifications.

    So most importantly when inserting neck is ensuring that centreline of the neck is spot on to centreline of the bridge correct?

    With the template prepared, can I mark out and route the bridge pickup and then set up the bridge itself in relation to the pick and then mark out and drill the respective holes? Or do I need to measure 7.37" from the neck pocket to mark out the bridge screws and from that mark the neck pick up cavity?

    Since I am following the thinline template I am under the impression that it is the pickup position that would then determine the location of the screws for the bridge and so with the bridge in hand and maintaining centreline with the neck I can then locate its actual position.

    Finally @Freeman KellerFriend, the ruler in your photo is for alignment purposes or you are taking some particular measurement (25/5") and marking out bridge position out of this measurement please?...as I note the ruler spot on on the 25.5" from which part are you measuring this dimension - presumably somewhere off the neck but can you indicate the full ruler position in a picture if possible to understand correctly actual end points.

    One last thing, any idea how to get the faint lines in the pdf template showing in a readable manner when I print as I still cannot get this showing correctly.

    Regards to all.
     
  16. Preacher

    Preacher Friend of Leo's

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    A couple of notations.

    On your F hole, typically they leave the inside of the guitar free of finish like an acoustic. But I know of some who spray some black in that area to conceal the inside, I think it is the choice of the builder.

    On the back, if you have not cut the control cavity access, don't. You will not need it on a thinline as you can take the pick guard off and have access to all you need. The control plate you have has all the parts you need, you just need to be able to transfer them to them to the pickguard.
     
  17. Preacher

    Preacher Friend of Leo's

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  18. emann

    emann TDPRI Member

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    @Preacher; thanks for the detailed reply and mostly understood I think now. In view of the templates, would you have the thinline model in acad as I can also print off a dwg file if you can send it to me by chance.
     
  19. bettyseldest

    bettyseldest Friend of Leo's

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    I've used the toneriders on a couple of builds, I like them, they have plenty of fans on here.
     
  20. Preacher

    Preacher Friend of Leo's

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    sent you a PM
     
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