My First Build - Let The Chips FLY

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Engraver-60, Jan 21, 2009.

  1. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    You could have hot glued it to a straight piece of stock and used the stock as a straight edge for the fence.
     
  2. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    My hot glue gun is useless. It's all clogged up with grey GRS Thermoset. I have to get a new one.
     
  3. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    Rule one of building a neck. Do every operation that requires a square flat surface for indexing while that surface is square and flat.
     
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  4. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    I know that stuff now, but back when I made these neck blanks (10 years ago) it was fun to just make them look like necks. June 2, 2010 to be exact:
    [​IMG]
     
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  5. RatBug

    RatBug Tele-Meister

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    I have fallen behind on my build, and don't contribute as much as I would like, but I can at least post this.

    From my build, I got stuck in the same position. I was so excited to actually get a neck shaped piece of wood that I forgot about the truss rod route. This is how I fixed it.

    RatBug's 2020 Brotherhood Build - My 1994 Dream.
     
  6. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks for the comments, links to other methods and general niceties. This will also be a great guitar, because I have spilled blood for it. While trying my brand new set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels to straighten and clean out the groove, I slipped and went into the top of my left thumb. Paper towels and masking tape make pretty good bandages when the first aid kit is upstairs. Really glad I had not sharpened them yet. I know factory sharp really isn't, but I just wanted to see how they looked on the table. OUCH. I used the 1/4" wide chisel as a scraper to deepen the channel.

    I think I'll fill in that runaway ramp with some Durham's Water Putty.
    [​IMG]

    This stuff is the whammer-jammer for small mistakes. I've had to plug woodpecker holes (1.5" diameter) with leftover wood turnings, and glue, then cover with Durham's, and those peckerwoods don't try that spot again. Now I can see why Woody Woodpecker was thought up as a cartoon. Those guys are just plain crazy and intense. He's bored 3 holes in my WRC siding in the past year. But I digress (as usual).
     
  7. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    I got the Durham's on the runaway ramp, and decided to slot the fretboard. It took a while to remember how to use it, and setup for the Fender scale. I also decided to use the Stainless Steel 1051 frets. I've got like 30 feet of the stuff from a Jackson closeout back 15 years ago. I read the thread by Colt W. Knight regarding how he really like them, so I thought - WHY NOT. telebaum fretbd slotted.jpg
     
  8. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    I've been trying to recreate the 3D Rhino of this body, mainly to think through the nuances of this build. I believe the Tele Deluxe is closest to the type of controls configuration that I am shooting to resemble - 3 knobs, and a 5-way Strat type selector. Master Volume, Master Tone, and a push-pull for the mini-HB volume/split coil tap.
    body layout.jpg

    It's been so long since I used Rhino 4.0 it's taking a while to convert things. Marty, you've really gotten talented at Rhino, got to say that.
    rear view.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020
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  9. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I'm sure not as good as it as some here, but I can do pretty much what I want up to a point. I don't have the patience for a LP carved top.
     
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  10. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    deleted
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2020
  11. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    double post - sorry.
     
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  12. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Yeah, I was playing with trying to run the recurve cutout around the top curve, and I could not get it to go. Maybe if I place the closed curve at several locations along the top curve, I can get it to create the solid. Then with a solid representing the carved out portion, I can do a Boolean Difference from the 3/4" thick top. I'll play with it some more tonight. The top basically now has more of a German carve than an LP carve, so getting the simulation should be pretty straight forward.

    I used to be able to do many things with Rhino, because it was the jewelry design engine for me. But having used CATIA for 8 years has made me forget the commands of Rhino. If you can send me the 3dm for a tele neck, that will save me some time whittling away. Thanks for watching.

    What do you think of my controls layout (Strat pickup not shown in middle yet)
     
  13. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I think I'd put the bottom tone/ vol more forward in the normal position because the plug end might interfere with that spot or at least crowd it...
     
  14. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    [​IMG]


    I have already moved them up, and standard Deluxes have the lower tone right in line with the output jack. I may try to move it forward some and see where that fits with the blade switch, in the place where the lower volume knob is shown.
     
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  15. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Last night I glued the fretboard onto the neck, with the 2-way truss rod installed. I measured 18.38" from end of neck to saddle side if nut slot, drilled a couple a index pin holes for short wire nails, and glued and clamped. This morning I used my wooden radius block (9.5" radius) and started to radius the fretboard. Slow going, so I switched the 12" Radius block I had printed for the LP build, and used Klingspor 2" wide sandpaper. This cloth backed sandpaper is the best. I discovered it while taking woodturning classes at John C. Campbell Folkschool a couple of years ago. I started with 80, then 120, 220, and finished with 400 grits. Then I french polished with garnet flake shellac dissolved in DNA. I noticed a couple of flat spots down near the nut, and up by the 22nd fret. So, I started over with 80, then thru all the grits and re-shellaced. I thinks it's looking pretty nice. Next re-slot to depth, and bevel the top edges of the frets, and move onto fret installation.
    telebaum neck-1.jpg
    More progress later, and more picture, too. I've found all of my old telecaster Solidworks blocks from my college class in 3D design, and started installing them into the 3D Telebaum model.
    iso-view-1.jpg
     
  16. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Last night I re-cut the fret slots to fit the stainless steel 6105 fret wire, and cut the frets to a little over length. Man, that stuff is difficult to cut. I ended up using the cutter on a pair of vise grips to crush it enough to bend it and break it. I am glad I decided not to bind the fretboard. Cutting those tangs would have been a nightmare.

    Have you ever had one of those AH-HA moments? I just spent 2 hours this morning trying to make maple dots for the bubinga fretboard. Cheap HF plug cutter and Dewalt hand drill was not cutting the maple. I gave up, came upstairs to get a coffee, and then it dawned on me - AH-HA - I have 1/4" diameter maple dowel rod. What a fool. I could have had them cut holes drilled and installed in place in much less time. I'll take pictures later once I have the dots and frets installed.

    The bubinga really sanded and polished up well. Sure wish I would have remembered to do it on Scrap Paul. I did play SP-1 for 2 hours yesterday, with a looper I got used, BOSS RC-3. That thing is pretty powerful, and I am starting to remember how to tap my foot.
     
  17. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    OK - I got the dots installed, CA glue on the ends to helps them be stable, and side dots installed, and the stainless steel frets all installed and trimmed flush, beveled, and rough edges taken off. I went thru 2 Mizzy Heatless wheel grinding the dang fret ends. Got to order more of those. I used one stick plus about 5" of the second fret wires.
    telebaum neck fretted.jpg

    I probably took too much off the headstock end trying to flatten it. It's only 7/16" thick now. Oh well. Mark it up to experience. Or lack of it.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2020
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  18. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    OK - Update time - I determined the toggle switch was burnt out on the Shopsmith. So I ordered one, and it came in,and I replaced it. Why did Shopsmith make the access hole so small and sharp edged? Plugged it into the same outlet as before, and flipped the switch - NODDA. I spun the shaft up to some speed with the sanding disk, flipped the switch - NODDA. OK, maybe the outlet is blown too? Yep. It's alive. OK, where's the darned Jacobs Chuck now? Cleaned and searched high and low for 2-1/2 hours - nowhere to be found. Tired, dusty and quite aggravated I left the shop, looked down in some spare parts from work, and there lay the chuck.

    I went upstairs to cool down and get a drink of iced water, then went back to the Shopsmith. What the heck, try the Wagner Safe-T-Planer. Should've left well enough alone. The weight of the power head slowly made the Wagner take slightly deeper, and deeper bites. OOPS - the whole back is now gone. The cavities of what was to be a thinline are now exposed from the back. Time for a design OPPORTUNITY. Luckily I have some spare bookmatched flame maple slabs , 1/4" thick, that I can apply,and correct this mistake. It is going to be better on the back than it is on the front.

    Like I've taught my jewelry students - no such thing as a mistake, just a design opportunity. News at eleven. Pictures to follow.

    2-1/2 hours of cleaning to find the chuck and 20 minutes of Wagnering, and now I can clean all over again.
     
  19. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Here's the OOPS BACK, and the new flame maple for the rear caps. oops back.jpg new flame back-1.jpg

    If I don't screw this up, too, the back will be finer than the front. I'll probably try to either faux bind the edge, or use some of the ABS white binding I already have (used it on Scrap Paul. This will also give me a chance to completely layout the controls cavity, and the access panel (I think I can cut the cover directly from the lower back plate with a large frame jeweler's saw and a #1 blade). I ordered a 5-way rotary switch (a la PRS style), and it should be here tomorrow. Then I can define the locations and make and make a template for the cover, and the controls' holes locations.
     
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  20. tubegeek

    tubegeek Tele-Afflicted

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    You could just make it a lefty.
     
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