My CNC build.

[JayneV]

I am getting old and this is the proof.
According to YouTube, I have seen the video and also I am a subscriber at Peter's YouTube channel.
Thanks André!

Me too! I watched the video and realised I was already subscribed to Peter’s channel.

 

[nickhofen]

Me too! I watched the video and realised I was already subscribed to Peter’s channel.

 

[nickhofen]

First proximity switch in place .
I will have the switches on the machine's body ,not traveling with the axis, less cables this way.
Also the proximity is out of the way of the axis, so if something goes wrong the switch won't be smashed.

 

[nickhofen]

Slave is 3D printing more proximity supports for the cnc machine.

 

[nickhofen]

I have manage to make the cnc move.
All proximities are working fine, I have put NC (normal close) proximities so if any of them is disconnected or fail the break out board is going to lose the signal and stop the machine.
Also I set the soft limits.
I have a working area of 934mm*867mm*170mm.
Here is a short video of the machine doing an air cut.
There is a clicking sound that comes from the second motor of the X axis ,I believe is the lead screw bearing.

Edit: I trim down the video but it is still too big to upload it directly here, I will find another way.

 

[nickhofen]

The ugliest cnc ever!

 

[BluesBlooded]

Nicely done Nick!

I see you have a nice spindle. Is this the HuanYang 2.2kv? Watercooled?

In any case, just make sure you check your first runs properly because with mine, the spindle would stop spinning when I was using a 1/2 in spiral flute end mill. I never understood why. I never took more than 3 or 4mm deep cuts. The Amperage looked fine, no overload or anything. In the end I was only using 1/4 in cutters and never had any problems.

Just be careful until you trust your machine to behave properly.

 

[nickhofen]

Nicely done Nick!

I see you have a nice spindle. Is this the HuanYang 2.2kv? Watercooled?

In any case, just make sure you check your first runs properly because with mine, the spindle would stop spinning when I was using a 1/2 in spiral flute end mill. I never understood why. I never took more than 3 or 4mm deep cuts. The Amperage looked fine, no overload or anything. In the end I was only using 1/4 in cutters and never had any problems.

Just be careful until you trust your machine to behave properly.

Yes Andre this is the spindle, the HY 2.2kw, watercooled.
Thanks for the warning I will keep it in mind!

 

[R. Stratenstein]

Yes Andre this is the spindle, the HY 2.2kw, watercooled.
Thanks for the warning I will keep it in mind!

I was going to lie and say “I read the whole thread and loved it” but it goes back to 2017–so I only read a couple of pages, but it is-um- coming right along. Good work, Nick!

 

[nickhofen]

I was going to lie and say “I read the whole thread and loved it” but it goes back to 2017–so I only read a couple of pages, but it is-um- coming right along. Good work, Nick!

Nice to see you around buddy!

 

[R. Stratenstein]

Thanks, Nick!

 

[nickhofen]

Plan B in progress!
I fire up the 2.2 kw spindle and the MDF plates of the z axis, didn't handle very well the power of the motor....
So I decided to cut the 20mm thick aluminium plate, I found in a scrap yard for 80 euros , with my bandsaw.
Things went well.

 

[BluesBlooded]

Would never thought you could cut aluminum that thick with a band saw. Well done Nick!

 

[nickhofen]

Would never thought you could cut aluminum that thick with a band saw. Well done Nick!

Neither do I.
I just give it a try and everything went well.
I used a blade with many teeth per inch and dry cut, and it worked.

 

[LeftFinger]

They used to tell us to reduce the speed by half for aluminum then it doesn't build up on the blade

 

[nickhofen]

They used to tell us to reduce the speed by half for aluminum then it doesn't build up on the blade

Exactly that.

 

[Jim_in_PA]

Nice work and decision to use the aluminum. And yes, you can cut aluminium, copper and brass effectively with woodworking tools with a good band/blade choice and careful work, since they can be cut dry. Makes a mess, however, and do not use dust collection, especially if you have a single stage unit. 'Best to use a broom and your shop vac afterward. Eye protection is even more critical than with wood, too.

 

[nickhofen]

Nice work and decision to use the aluminum. And yes, you can cut aluminium, copper and brass effectively with woodworking tools with a good band/blade choice and careful work, since they can be cut dry. Makes a mess, however, and do not use dust collection, especially if you have a single stage unit. 'Best to use a broom and your shop vac afterward. Eye protection is even more critical than with wood, too.

Thanks Jim.
Very well said!!!

 

[Jim_in_PA]

BTW, you can cut non-ferrous metals with your CNC, too...messy job for sure, but with the correct feeds/speeds and tooling, it opens up additional value to having the machine in the shop. I'm planning on doing a little more of this going forward just because I find it interesting.

 

[nickhofen]

BTW, you can cut non-ferrous metals with your CNC, too...messy job for sure, but with the correct feeds/speeds and tooling, it opens up additional value to having the machine in the shop. I'm planning on doing a little more of this going forward just because I find it interesting.

Peter (CNC NUTZ) used this setup to cut aluminum.

André port this video a while back and this is something I definitely want to try!