I wish I had bought one of the 1 x 15 VV RI's back when they were cheap.
Yeah I know. A local player I know had 2, (maybe 3?) real 64 VV's at one time maybe 12-15 years ago. He fell on hard times back then (drugs) and I considered "pawning" one for him, figuring he'd never get it back. But I decided not to. DUH!The Fender 1964 Vibroverb RI Handwired is a different amp in comparison to the 6G16. The biggest difference is the tremolo circuit, which is an opto-isolator circuit in that BF 64 VVRI(AB763) but is bias vary in the 63 VVRI(6G16). The 6G16 also has tapped treble pots which yield a different midrange, ime. And yes…I always wanted one. I have owned a late 1963 blackface AB763 VV. I should have kept that one…it was a ‘rough’ player and sounded great. The other one that has passed through my hands was a dead mint 1964. a buyer didn’t even hesitate or even play through it before count8ng out the asking price.
@Rickofender, congrats and enjoy that amp.
congrats
Welcome to the forum.
Had one of those with brownface cosmetics. I've also had a couple of Custom Vibrolux Reverb Reissues. To me, they sounded identical, or very close. Way too much amp for me these days.
Have fun!
Modded to original specs. Now it’s tube rectified?My version. Modded back to '63 VVR specs. Love the blueframe speakers.
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Congratulations on a great amp and welcome to the forum. I owned a ‘63 VVRI and loved it. I had Alessandro GA10-SC64’s in it when I sold it.
It was a keeper amp unit I sold it to help fund buying a vintage ‘62 brown Vibrolux. I missed the reverb in my ‘63 VVRI so now unfortunately, both amps are gone.
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Yes, I had a ‘63 RI Reverb Unit at one time and I also own a great sounding Reverb pedal (Catlinbread Topanga). Water under the bridge both amps are now gone.Reverb can be purchased, can it not???
Not quite. VVR RI specs but I did add a Weber Copper Cap to simulate the rectifier tube. Works pretty good but you probably won't notice much difference unless the amp is pushed. Even then it's not really necessary.Modded to original specs. Now it’s tube rectified?
I tried one of those in mine and then a week later had it put back to stock. Really didn’t notice a difference either.Not quite. VVR RI specs but I did add a Weber Copper Cap to simulate the rectifier tube. Works pretty good but you probably won't notice much difference unless the amp is pushed. Even then it's not really necessary.
I've got one Princeton with a ss plug-in rectifier and the stock 5AR4 in my PRRI and it's a subtle but noticeable difference in volume and attack (there are other variables, admittedly). I tried a 5y3 in the PRRI and it sounded great--tremolo was deeper and swampier--but the amp ran hotter and the right amp strap was noticeably warmer to the touch. Swapped it back out.Fwiw, I hear the difference between a GZ34 and solid state rectifier…even in clean modes. I am not saying that it is like day and night, but there are differences. For one thing, the attack is sharper and quicker.
With the lower voltage yielded by the 5Y3, your power tubes were rebiased and were drawing more current, I would think. The 5Y3 has the same current draw as does a GZ34, so it was not 8n and of itself causing the PT to heat up.I've got one Princeton with a ss plug-in rectifier and the stock 5AR4 in my PRRI and it's a subtle but noticeable difference in volume and attack (there are other variables, admittedly). I tried a 5y3 in the PRRI and it sounded great--tremolo was deeper and swampier--but the amp ran hotter and the right amp strap was noticeably warmer to the touch. Swapped it back out.