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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by gangreen, Sep 23, 2014.
They do fit in with the fanned frets nicely.
With apologies to my middle school geometry teacher I believe those are rhomboids, not trapezoids.
rhombus I think... equal length sides... rhomboids don't have all 4 sides the same length.
more typically considered a parallelogram.
Those parallel-rhomba-gram-azoids are gonna be cool by any name. Reminds me for some reason of a crystal shape. I vote for abalone or pearloid in there though 'i think' they might be a challenge to cut out.
I like the whole enchilada - looking forward to seeing how it plays/sounds.
You will love the rich warm tones of the base strings with that 27ish inch scale.
I have just completed my second and with the lessons learned will be starting my 3rd soon.
Mine are 25 -27 scale.
I found on my first that I lost some effective fret board range due to the slant of the frets near the body. On my second (the red one) I increased the neck length by one inch. This worked out great for me.
My build thread:
Routed the cavity cover recess to 1/4" deep.
Drew the planned contour lines. 1/2" around the bout. Then whatever looks good over the horns.
Routed the contour lines free hand. Have done this with the trim routed in the past but it gets bogged down. Used the medium router 2 1/4HP with a 1/2" spiral cut bit, free hand still. Went much quicker and was easier on the router and the routerer.
Side view of the terraces.
After gently grinding down to the terrace marks with the angle grinder and a 60 grit disk.
Beautiful workmanship! How did you do the routing for the cavity cover recess. Did you make a separate template for it or do you have a router bit for this. I have found this is my least favorite thing to do. This and cutting the actual cover. What material are you going to use for the cover?
These are 3/4" MDF templates I use for routing.
Cover template sitting on cavity.
I used to shape the covers by hand but the never fit like a puzzle piece. So I make MDF templates that fit tight and then tape 1/4" stock to the cover template and shape it on the router table with a pattern cutting bit for half of the curves and a flush trim bit for the other curves. Need two bits and to flip the piece so that you are always routing down hill. Otherwise it will tear out and throw it across the room. Hypothetically.
Carpet tape on the back of the template. I'll show more detail when I get to that step.
I also stopped and appreciated this picture. nice.
yes, like the picture too!
Used a 1/2" Forster bit to take the cavity front down to 5/16" thick. Have tried the smallest bowl bit on the drill press and it still jumps around more than I can stomach. Trimmed the edges of the cavity.
Headstock thickness down to 0.55". Hemmed and hawed about how to approach the nut slot but in the end I like the ends of the rosewood parallel to the nut slot. Did it straight first. Used the spindle sander to thin the headstock.
After a once over with 150 grit on the random orbit.
Cleaned up around the fretboard and matched the slight angle of the horns to that of the fretboard/neck.
Sand. Sand. Sand. Sand. Sand. Clay dots on the fretboard.
Do you know what this is?
Sand. Sand. Sand. Sand. Back shaped.
Frets in. First few guitars I set frets with a dead blow mallet. Then got a fret press. Works well but at times you need 3 or 4 hands to hold guitar, hold fret, pull the handle, etc. so now I cut and gently start the frets with the hammer and then seat them with the press. A nice compromise.
Just be aware tha the radius will change ever so slightly over the length of the fret board due to the angle of the frets.
I like to run the corner of a piece of paper along the edge of each fret (both sides)
if the corner slips under the fret to the tang, then the fret isnt seated properly and could use a whack with a hammer.... I use a hammer for the above mentioned radius issue.... and cuz im too cheep to buy a fret press caul.... and cuz chicks dig manly men with many hammers.... like thor... yeah.....
I'll give each one a few Thor-like, John Henry-ish whacks for good measure whether they need it or not. Brings to mind, "Thank you. May I have another!?" Thanks for the tip.
Ok man I'm going to have to try this 'fanned fret' thing. Really looking forward to seeing how this plays/sounds.
Frets beveled, leveled and dressed.
Locations for the megaswitch and volume and tone pots.
2/3" holes for pots and 1-16" x 1-1/8" channel for the switch.
Thinned the cavity top to 1/8" under the switch.
Took the nut slot depth almost through the rosewood. Left about 1/32". Adjusted the width and started shaping the nut. Rough string alignment and spacing so I can locate the bridge pieces. Bass E scale is 26.5" and treble E scale is 24.75". Going to add 3/16" to those measurements for bridge locations. Unless somebody tells me otherwise before I drill the holes.
usually your high E should be bang on the scale should it not? 3/16" on the bass side seems about right tho.