Most Vintage Accurate Parts

[SnakeSandwich]

So im pretty new to Telecasters and am looking at putting together a Nocaster replica, and Im wondering who sells the most accurate to vintage spec parts.

Im using a Musikraft Blackguard neck and body, but have no idea who makes the best pick guard, bridge control plate, knobs, saddles, ferrules, etc...

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

[moondogz]

http://www.glendaleguitars.com/

IMO. Also read what Dale has to say about bridge plate thickness... and good luck.

 

[JBennett]

(link removed) makes them like they used to.

 

[BritishBluesBoy]

+1 on the two above. Get your bakelite pickguard from Callaham guitars...

(link removed)

 

[Barncaster]

Hey Snake,

It's Marc Rutters @ www.ruttersguitars.com. If you want it accurate down to the tool marks, metallurgy and finish, it's Marc. He's a machinist with a guitar habit.

Barncaster

 

[koolaide]

Hey Snake,

It's Marc Rutters @ www.ruttersguitars.com. If you want it accurate down to the tool marks, metallurgy and finish, it's Marc. He's a machinist with a guitar habit.

Barncaster

+1 Marc is first class...

 

[adirondak5]

Marc is great to deal with , his hardware is fantastic , vintage or hotrodded.

 

[SnakeSandwich]

Thanks for al the replies. Marc's parts look amazing!

 

[boris bubbanov]

Once you depart from the Tele bridges and the screws supplied for the Gotoh tuners, Bill Callaham's stuff is remarkable and if there's anything "wrong" it is that the parts are too well made for FEIC.

My experience with Marc's stainless saddles has me VERY impressed. I cannot believe these have not taken off like wildfire.

One of my favorite products of all time is Dale Clark's pressed in '50 style machine jack cups. Extraordinary and these add real serious extra class to a T build that IMO you cannot get with an E-socket or any similar looking jack cup.

Face it. You can not buy everything in one place! :^)

 

[chillman]

How close to early 50s style is the OEM Fender nickel/brass bridge? The one I'm talking about is the first one listed on this page:

(link removed)

I'm planning a blackguard esquire build, and I'm not gonna make it 100% vintage accurate, but I want to get some major details very close.

 

[russ]

Hey Snake,

It's Marc Rutters @ www.ruttersguitars.com. If you want it accurate down to the tool marks, metallurgy and finish, it's Marc. He's a machinist with a guitar habit.

Barncaster

Marc's service, and products are fantastic.

 

[gmann]

Marc's stuff is the best! He has a complete slotted screw set available too, it's just not on his site yet. I have a set and it's dead accurate. He also has bakelite material for pickguards. He could do pickguards. He has the most accurate jack cups I've seen. He makes a shallow one that will take a right angle jack and even an electrosocket type jacks with the lip like the origs. You can get all the stuff at the same place. If you're wanting something you don't see on his site email him, more than likely he has it. He is one of the easiest guys I've ever dealt with and his products are the best I've used.

 

[ordenes10]

one question about marcs stuff. i am in the build of two very close to the original blackguards. i made the templates from a all original 53 blackguard.
What should i buy from marc? The alubridge?the steelbridge??? I am not shure what tone knobs. The screws???Anything else?? Thanks for help

 

[allen st. john]

How close to early 50s style is the OEM Fender nickel/brass bridge? The one I'm talking about is the first one listed on this page:

(link removed)

I'm planning a blackguard esquire build, and I'm not gonna make it 100% vintage accurate, but I want to get some major details very close.

The Fender bridge is fine. While the build quality isn't up to Marc's standards, it's actually *more* vintage accurate, because it has the Fender name and the company's rough and ready finish. It's also a stone cold bargain at $12.
I've never used the saddles--I went with compensated ones from CJ Tooling--but I think they're close enough for your purposes. That said, since they're close to $40, you're getting close to the price of even better saddles from CJ, Glendale, and Mark Rutters.

 

[SixShooter]

How close to early 50s style is the OEM Fender nickel/brass bridge? The one I'm talking about is the first one listed on this page:

(link removed)

Actually the original bridge plates were chrome plated not nickel. Not sure about the saddles on that item. I would want slotted height adjustment screws- can't tell what those have. Most come with allen head.

I am also working on a Blackguard replica. I plan to use the standard Fender chrome bridge plate:
http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Vintage-Telecaster-Bridge-Plate?sku=361323

Marc Rutter makes compensated saddles that don't look compensated. I may use these. Marc says he can provide them with slotted height screws:
http://app4.websitetonight.com/projects2/0/3/8/9/1609830/_mygallery/RuttersBrassSaddles2.jpg

I'm trying to find a photo of these saddles with strings on them so I can judge if they really are stealth.

 

[chillman]

Actually the original bridge plates were chrome plated not nickel. Not sure about the saddles on that item. I would want slotted height adjustment screws- can't tell what those have. Most come with allen head.

I am also working on a Blackguard replica. I plan to use the standard Fender chrome bridge plate:
http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-Vintage-Telecaster-Bridge-Plate?sku=361323

Marc Rutter makes compensated saddles that don't look compensated. I may use these. Marc says he can provide them with slotted height screws:
http://app4.websitetonight.com/projects2/0/3/8/9/1609830/_mygallery/RuttersBrassSaddles2.jpg

I'm trying to find a photo of these saddles with strings on them so I can judge if they really are stealth.

Thanks for the info, I knew they were chrome, but I LIKE nickel better, so I guess I'll have to figure out if I want accuracy or personal preference. Maybe I will spring for some Rutters saddles.

What I did spring for last night was a copy of the Blackguard Book, so I'll have some good reference material.

 

[Colt W. Knight]

+1 on Marc Rutters being great to deal with. I recommend his stuff.

 

[SixShooter]

Thanks for the info, I knew they were chrome, but I LIKE nickel better, so I guess I'll have to figure out if I want accuracy or personal preference. Maybe I will spring for some Rutters saddles.

What I did spring for last night was a copy of the Blackguard Book, so I'll have some good reference material.

Funny, I kind of like the nickel hardware too. It looks like it is easier to relic as well. I have been trying to relic a chrome bridge plate using salt water and it really hasn't done much. When I started conjuring up the project I wanted it to be as close to original looking as possible- even items under the hood that would never be seen. I'm backing off on that a touch. Now I just want it to look, sound, and play nice.

From what I have read in the Nacho book, every metal part was chrome plated except for the screws, string retainer, and string ferrules which were nickel. I don't think he mentions whether the tuners were chrome or nickel. I am guessing chrome. Still need to find an answer to that.

You'll love the Blackguard book. You may find yourself having an opinion about things that you previously didn't care or know about.

 

[Colt W. Knight]

Funny, I kind of like the nickel hardware too. It looks like it is easier to relic as well. I have been trying to relic a chrome bridge plate using salt water and it really hasn't done much. When I started conjuring up the project I wanted it to be as close to original looking as possible- even items under the hood that would never be seen. I'm backing off on that a touch. Now I just want it to look, sound, and play nice.

From what I have read in the Nacho book, every metal part was chrome plated except for the screws, string retainer, and string ferrules which were nickel. I don't think he mentions whether the tuners were chrome or nickel. I am guessing chrome. Still need to find an answer to that.

You'll love the Blackguard book. You may find yourself having an opinion about things that you previously didn't care or know about.

Best stuff I've found for relicing is computer board Etchant solution. Available at radio shack. Nickel parts relic almost instantly. Usually just have to dip them those. Chrome is tougher, I usually let is soak in the solution for several minutes before it starts eating into the finish.

 

[boris bubbanov]

Marc's saddles look great on a $ 12 Fender plate:

By the way, there is NO LAW that says you may not buy 4-5-6 of these cheapie FMIC plates; flatten the bottom of each with sandpaper, then inspect the results to see which ones seem to flat flattest and are not "sprung" - i.e., the metal is "happy" as it is and won't wobble. See how each sounds dropped on the table. Try a couple of the ones on the guitar that seem soundest. They do not IMO all sound precisely the same. You can buy a lot of FMIC AV52 style plates for the cost of 1 boutique plate.