Monty,s neck bolt insert kit?

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Muttly, Jan 20, 2020.

  1. Muttly

    Muttly TDPRI Member Silver Supporter

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    Thinking about trying it..
    Slowly putting together a cedar body Tele, running a Glendale thick neck plate.
    I have some concerns about cedar being a little soft, on occasion. Would rather take preventative measures than fix something that should have been addressed. Might be worrying about nothing, but..
    Wondering if anybody has used the Monty,s kit, or conversely, an in country alternative, and their results?
    Got most of the parts rounded up, sans electronics..
    If I can post a pic, be going on this wee beastie...

    First build, so...proceeding somewhat cautiously..
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2020
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  2. Muttly

    Muttly TDPRI Member Silver Supporter

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  3. Deeve

    Deeve Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Looks great.
    Sounds like a sensible idea - inserts in general - I know nothing about the specific set.
    The key thing I was told about inserting them was to utilize drill-press to make the holes completely straight, and to use the string-along both e & E (as when you install the Bigsby) to be sure the neck is properly aligned before drilling.
    Peace - Deeve
     
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  4. gregulator450

    gregulator450 Tele-Meister

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    This is your huckleberry right here...

    http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338148343&icep_item=271944816429

    I have used this kit to fix shifty necks and to make sure I never have the wood strip out around a neck bolt. You just have to be careful to not tighten the neck bolts too tightly (I have seen somewhere a spec of 18 ft/lbs, but cannot confirm), just snug, and like Deeve said, make sure the neck is properly aligned before drilling.
     
  5. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Silver Supporter

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    This isn't meant to be an argument against inserts, but I don't think a softer wood body is a concern. The screws bite into the NECK heel; they basically just drop through the holes in the body. If you have a neck plate, that should be fine.
     
  6. schmee

    schmee Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    Yeah, make those holes in the body clearance holes, the screw should not grip the body for good tightening.
    But yes, I have used machine thread inserts in the neck, they are great. You can get them at Ace hardware etc, "Threadserts". Use machine screws with them.
     
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  7. Captain Nutslot

    Captain Nutslot Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Idk but Id listen to the Jupiter
     
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  8. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Yeah, I can’t help either, but it’s gonna be one cool looking guitar when finished.
     
  9. lammie200

    lammie200 Friend of Leo's

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    Also with Jupiter on this. The one time that I tried inserts I felt that the guitar no longer had the characteristics of the Fender design in terms of weight distribution and sound. It can also be difficult to install the inserts because they will be very close the edges of the neck heel. These may not be reasons to not do the inserts though. Many people like them. I tried them and didn't like them for a typical Fender type of application.
     
  10. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    That big floating red spot is a storm don't ya know lol.All jokes aside what kind of cedar? I have built and am building outta cedar so any questions,shoot lol

    I kill me lol
    Dave
     
  11. old wrench

    old wrench Tele-Afflicted

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    Just to clarify things - that torque value for 8-32 machine screws should be more in the range of 18 - 20 inch pounds, quite a difference ;).
     
  12. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I use 1/4-20 inserts (2 of them) in all my bolt on acoustic necks with belleville washers but never thought it was necessary on a Fender screw on neck ( on an acoustic the inserts are in end grain). If you were going to take the neck off and on many times (like a travel guitar) it might be worth while or if the screw threads were totally blown out (but I would probably fill and redrill them). It will take a bit of jiggery at your drill press or careful setup on your cnc when you mill the neck.
     
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  13. Muttly

    Muttly TDPRI Member Silver Supporter

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    Appreciate the info and input!
    Have been known to complicate simple things on occasion..
    Picked the body up off of Ebay on a wild hair. Was told that it was built from salvaged 6x6 timbers off an old deck. Having a weird attraction to rat rods, old trucks, and such, that just added to the appeal. Near as I can tell, it is red cedar.
    Surrounded by it here in SE Alaska, so another draw..
     
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  14. gregulator450

    gregulator450 Tele-Meister

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    Yup, that's probably it. There was an older gentleman luthier out in California who was selling threaded insert kits up till the day he died, which was probably ten years ago now, and I found that info on his website. So, my ten-year-old memory of what I read messed that one up.
     
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  15. milocj

    milocj Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Love the streaks in the grain on that fingerboard. If only the body is cedar and the neck is maple there wouldn't really be any benefit from the inserts.

    I have used inserts twice just to see what it's like and I use the ones from McMaster-Carr that have a normal SAE thread on the outside. This allows you to tap the wood which means that the insert doesn't also cut it's own threads and possibly break during installation.
     
  16. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Cedar CAN compress,that would negate using inserts for me
     
  17. old wrench

    old wrench Tele-Afflicted

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    I routinely use steel inserts for attaching bolt-on necks.

    The ones I use weigh 1 gram each - so a total of 4 grams or 1/7 of an ounce. No appreciable weight to the little buggers.

    They do need to be installed very accurately; if not, they can do more harm than good ;).

    Honestly, my ears can't tell any real difference in the sound with or without them, but I do know that with the use of inserts I've made that neck joint about as bullet-proof as I can :).
     
  18. lammie200

    lammie200 Friend of Leo's

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    That's cool. I am just prejudiced against anything other than the simple way it was done at the beginning of time. I even tried a contoured neck heel once. Didn't like it. Just didn't feel familiar enough for me I suppose.
     
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  19. Mike Simpson

    Mike Simpson Doctor of Teleocity

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    I would use a solid neck plate and not worry about it. I made several bodies out of pine and the body hardness is not an issue. If you tighten the neck plate screws enough to compress the body wood they are way too tight.

    The neck screw inserts only advantage is to avoid wearing out the threads in the maple neck if you want to remove the neck a lot.

    .
     
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  20. Soapbarstrat

    Soapbarstrat Tele-Meister

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    Many apply glue to the inserts when they install them, but what I started doing, is tap the hole, then coat it with thin superglue, then let that dry before installing the insert. That seals the bare wood and makes the small tapped wood threads a little stronger. Also, the tap I use has the teeth ground slightly, so there is a little tighter fit when the insert is driven in. If the insert ever needs to be taken out, it won’t be as much trouble as one that’s been glued in. It’s all mostly done on the drill press, even the tapping (no motor power with that). I usually use #10-24 screws. I have used 3 #10’s and 1 #8 on some contoured heels.
     
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