Rufus Leakin
NEW MEMBER!
This may not be for everyone, hopefully this interests some, and perhaps help those in a similar situation.
I love this little amp, as is and my major gripe concerned the color of the cabinet.
I attempted an easy color change fix along with remoting the 500ma SloBlo fuse to the front panel.
It seems quite a few folks have gone with a total re-cover which looks sharp; however I thought there might be an easier, quicker and more inexpensive solution.
Anyway -- it's pretty simple, especially if you don't do the fuse mod.
Good Luck
I love this little amp, as is and my major gripe concerned the color of the cabinet.
I attempted an easy color change fix along with remoting the 500ma SloBlo fuse to the front panel.
It seems quite a few folks have gone with a total re-cover which looks sharp; however I thought there might be an easier, quicker and more inexpensive solution.
Before and After
First -- guttify the cabinet -- take Everything out!
Make sure to remove the 4 bottom feet as those screws also go into the baffle board.
Cpmplte disassembly involves removing all screws,
and pushing the baffle board (once spkr is out) towards the back of the cab.
You'll be able to slide the chassis towards the back of the cab
PRO TIP: Remove all five tubes Before sliding the chassis, and then remove the speaker.
Also take out the verb tank
NOTE: the white vinyl piping is held in place w/staples,
and you can remove it, or mask it.
I masked -- however, if I ever do this again I'd remove the piping from the cabinet
I cleaned off the slight amount of excess paint from the piping with q-tips - first a little Kerosense and then Denatured Alcohol
and wipe between solvents -- and work also in a ventilated space with no open flame around
I took some glaze off white covering (tolex??? I doubt it) with 600 sandpaper
I then used this commonly available spray -
"Herculiner Do It Your Self Truck Bed Liner"
You should consider getting a spray can "Trigger"; also commonly avble --- and wear a mask when spraying
The Fuse Issue (at least for me)
Once I had the chassis out it became obvious
I'd have to provide easier access to the fuse,
cause if it blows during a show ----- oooooops
I bought a common panel mount fuse holder,
and fuses to fit it.
The replacement fuse is: 0.5A SlowBlow / MDL 6mm x 30mm or 0.25" x 1.25"
=== the fuse will be marked 500 ma MDL ===
Fuse Holder: Bliue Sea Systems 5021
Most panel mount holders require a 1/2" hole
Location is critical -- not much clearance if you dork it up
NOTE: where I wrote "washer" I mean "nut"
Anyway that's the part I used to locate the center point
of my 1/2" hole.
Here is where I soldered new wires
Hole Drilled
You will need a carbide tipped bit to get thru the front panel
for your "starter" hole
For doing most chassis work
I recommend a step cone bit
and . . . . . . . good ones are not inexpen$ive
New Fuse Holder Mounted and Wires Secured with Bayonet Connectors
You might consider doing a bench test
before putting the pants back on this thing
Front Panel After
Not Bad -- especially with the addition of black chicken heads
The metal tube protection grill is stapled in place.
I removed it before spray and then re-stapled it back into place
I realize completely voiding the warranty, and tearing into things, takes folks down a path many may not feel comfortable going down --- However, if you're one of those folks who subscribe to the old maxim: "If you come to a fork in the road . . . take it" ...... this transformation might be for you.First -- guttify the cabinet -- take Everything out!
Make sure to remove the 4 bottom feet as those screws also go into the baffle board.
Cpmplte disassembly involves removing all screws,
and pushing the baffle board (once spkr is out) towards the back of the cab.
You'll be able to slide the chassis towards the back of the cab
PRO TIP: Remove all five tubes Before sliding the chassis, and then remove the speaker.
Also take out the verb tank
NOTE: the white vinyl piping is held in place w/staples,
and you can remove it, or mask it.
I masked -- however, if I ever do this again I'd remove the piping from the cabinet
I cleaned off the slight amount of excess paint from the piping with q-tips - first a little Kerosense and then Denatured Alcohol
and wipe between solvents -- and work also in a ventilated space with no open flame around
I took some glaze off white covering (tolex??? I doubt it) with 600 sandpaper
I then used this commonly available spray -
"Herculiner Do It Your Self Truck Bed Liner"
You should consider getting a spray can "Trigger"; also commonly avble --- and wear a mask when spraying
The Fuse Issue (at least for me)
Once I had the chassis out it became obvious
I'd have to provide easier access to the fuse,
cause if it blows during a show ----- oooooops
I bought a common panel mount fuse holder,
and fuses to fit it.
The replacement fuse is: 0.5A SlowBlow / MDL 6mm x 30mm or 0.25" x 1.25"
=== the fuse will be marked 500 ma MDL ===
Fuse Holder: Bliue Sea Systems 5021
Most panel mount holders require a 1/2" hole
Location is critical -- not much clearance if you dork it up
NOTE: where I wrote "washer" I mean "nut"
Anyway that's the part I used to locate the center point
of my 1/2" hole.
Here is where I soldered new wires
Hole Drilled
You will need a carbide tipped bit to get thru the front panel
for your "starter" hole
For doing most chassis work
I recommend a step cone bit
and . . . . . . . good ones are not inexpen$ive
New Fuse Holder Mounted and Wires Secured with Bayonet Connectors
You might consider doing a bench test
before putting the pants back on this thing
Front Panel After
Not Bad -- especially with the addition of black chicken heads
The metal tube protection grill is stapled in place.
I removed it before spray and then re-stapled it back into place
Anyway -- it's pretty simple, especially if you don't do the fuse mod.
Good Luck