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Monoprice 15 watt amp upgrades

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by Stewtech, Aug 22, 2019.

  1. tubegeek

    tubegeek Friend of Leo's

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    Interesting to hear all the positive comments on 6P14P - I think I have a few of those stashed away, haven't tried them yet.
     
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  2. Stewtech

    Stewtech TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it!
     
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  3. 2fingers

    2fingers TDPRI Member

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    WELL EXECUTED!
     
  4. 2fingers

    2fingers TDPRI Member

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    Quick question: I have an old Peavey Backstage 2 (80s version - not the newer "trans-tube p.o.s) that died before it was given to me. I used to use it as a "cab" for my little Danelectro Dirty Thirty amp. Since I've got the MP 15w now (which has the newer metal reverb tank in it), I've thought about taking the red USA-made tank out of the old Peavey and tossing it into the Monoprice. The sticker is missing (got crusty with age) from the tank - but maybe somebody familiar with those old (LOUD) amps can chime in: will it work? And would it be an improvement?
     
  5. 2fingers

    2fingers TDPRI Member

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    Input inmpedance on the OC Electronics pan is ~100 ohms from what I'm reading - so it apparently WON'T work in the Monoprice? Yet the Mod brand replacement tank for the Monoprice 15W says it is also compatible for a Peavey Bandit (which would have been equipped with the type 247 reverb tank). I'm confused.
     
  6. 2fingers

    2fingers TDPRI Member

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    EDIT: After further research, the impedance stated above appears to be incorrect due to choice of wording by the original writer. It's actually ~60 ohms DC resistance on the input and ~220 Ohm DC resistance on the output side. This is not the same measurement as impedance @1kHz, apparently - but rather a static reading of resistance that may be measured with the reverb tank removed from the circuit entirely. While not an ideal measurement for choosing a compatible tank, DC resistance can still get it ballparked to a replacement tank. I suppose I'll measure the tank that came with my MP15 just to be doubly sure. This might seem like a wild goose chase to some, and the number of springs will remain at two if I swap - however, I hypothesize that to a degree the older-style O.C. Electronics pans' lush sound was also due in part to the stamped one-piece shell (as opposed to the narrower bent & riveted tanks on the market today). Of course, like everything else in the magical world of guitars - it is the sum of the parts that make up the whole (reverb driver circuit, cables, tank location, reverb pot). My primary concerns are: Will I burn up my reverb circuit? Will I even be able to hear reverb when I turn the knob?

    I am unable to delete my old posts or edit and amend with this information included - so I'm replying to myself here. But really nobody's tried it? I mean, as well-known as these reverb units were nobody knows if it'll work?
     
  7. Willie Johnson

    Willie Johnson Tele-Meister

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    Find an oddball badge off of a '50s toaster or toy truck or something. That'll do it.
     
  8. The G-ape

    The G-ape NEW MEMBER!

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    They are sold in Europe now, at Harley Benton- https://m.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_tube15_celestion.htm

    I made bias adjustment and am now going to experiment with JJ, Tung-sol and Sovtek on V1/V3.
     
  9. LightningPhil

    LightningPhil Tele-Meister

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  10. stormsedge

    stormsedge Friend of Leo's

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    I changed the V1-3 tubes just because I could...moved them around until I thought it subjectively best. Now has V1-Gold Lion ECC83; V2-EHX (russia) 12AX7; V3-Mullard 12AX7. Better? Maybe.

    And, I added a skinny "F" between Stage and Right making it a Stage (f)Right amp.
     
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