MojoRick
TDPRI Member
As I said above, already planning to possibly do this. We will decide whether it's desirable for us before drilling holes.
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Mojotone 5F11 Tremolo problem
- Thread starter MojoRick
- Start date
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I understand you wishing they could do this, but I just don't see it as feasible. Bias-caused noises? Forget the noises (whatever they might be). Just explaining bias, how to measure, how to adjust, and how to fine-tune the adjust circuit is super hard to do -- trust me, I try and fail all the time.
More generally, as we read through the zillions of help threads here, your little extra sheet would have to run for pages, in a small font, and would almost certainly end up confusing the few new builders who read it.
And if it did say "high-pitched squeal? -- try lifting NFB", you'll have to admit they couldn't likely add "no high-pitched squeal? -- ask a young person to confirm." ;-) TBH, I'm impressed you got it working, and I credit the forum here for doing something Mojo can't possibly do -- brainstorm and reply and ask questions and listen until the answer becomes clear.
MojoRick
TDPRI Member
King fan you are probably right - Maybe those without the necessary skills shouldn't attempt an amp build.
I like your attitude -- and Clint's, though his looks a bit less mellow.
Would you buy my version of who shouldn't attempt amp builds? Those who aren't willing to learn as they build. I had no skills when I started (OK, my Dad taught me to solder back when the Beatles were still together). Your skills were clearly sufficient; happily, you were also willing to ask for help and listen to our disparate replies.
Very few new builders could have 1/64 of all the weird knowledge we need to build an amp -- how NFB can easily become PFB, what to do if your PT lacks a heater CT, what to do if your plans show artificial CT resistors but your PT actually *has* a heater CT, common ways Switchcraft jacks can misbehave, how often bad guitar cables make us think our amp is broken, the vast difference between 470 and 470K, the huge difference between "safety earth ground" and "0V chassis reference ground," etc. All lots of fun, as long as we like to learn.
Would you buy my version of who shouldn't attempt amp builds? Those who aren't willing to learn as they build. I had no skills when I started (OK, my Dad taught me to solder back when the Beatles were still together). Your skills were clearly sufficient; happily, you were also willing to ask for help and listen to our disparate replies.
Very few new builders could have 1/64 of all the weird knowledge we need to build an amp -- how NFB can easily become PFB, what to do if your PT lacks a heater CT, what to do if your plans show artificial CT resistors but your PT actually *has* a heater CT, common ways Switchcraft jacks can misbehave, how often bad guitar cables make us think our amp is broken, the vast difference between 470 and 470K, the huge difference between "safety earth ground" and "0V chassis reference ground," etc. All lots of fun, as long as we like to learn.
MojoRick
TDPRI Member
I do buy your version, and love the buddy guy quote.
Not long ago I was on to my son, who lugs a bassman to gigs, to use a modeling amp to get the sound he wants. I poo-pooed his answer saying it was not possible to get the tweed sound from a modeler. He actually tried a Roland cube and used other amps which didn't move him. After more exposure, I have become a believer in the tweed tone. I have had discussions with a friend of mine, a fellow old time electrical engineer, about why the tube tone is so unique and hard to synthesize. I have recently also read everything I could find on the subject.
This proves that old dogs can learn new stuff.
elpico
Tele-Afflicted
In my experience it's not so much that digital models can't make A tweed tone at all, it's that the tone doesn't change and respond to your guitar like a real amp.
Sometimes it feels like the model is just gonna go ahead and output the TWEED TONE™ it was programmed to spit out, and it's not gonna let stuff like the sound of your guitars or control settings get in the way of achieving it's mission. Progress has been made vs a decade ago, I'll give it that, but in the worst cases you can end up feeling like your guitar has been reduced to a midi controller that sets the pitch and not much else.
I keep trying them though. I think one day someone will make the jump past trying to force the output to match some predetermined finger print, and instead just make a great sounding digital amp that doesn't try to be anything else and let's you and your guitar sound how they really sound.
Sometimes it feels like the model is just gonna go ahead and output the TWEED TONE™ it was programmed to spit out, and it's not gonna let stuff like the sound of your guitars or control settings get in the way of achieving it's mission. Progress has been made vs a decade ago, I'll give it that, but in the worst cases you can end up feeling like your guitar has been reduced to a midi controller that sets the pitch and not much else.
I keep trying them though. I think one day someone will make the jump past trying to force the output to match some predetermined finger print, and instead just make a great sounding digital amp that doesn't try to be anything else and let's you and your guitar sound how they really sound.
Uffepungen
Tele-Meister
Yes yes. The old "you couldn't tell them apart with a blind fold" argument might be true (I haven't tried doing that test though). But I still haven't played something digital that responded the same way as a real world tweed amp does. It'll probably come some day, but not yet.
ievans
Tele-Meister
Man, just seeing a picture of that switch mounted that way gives me the sweats. One of my favorite legal terms is "attractive nuisance" and that switch is a pretty good example.
The best location for that switch is outside of the amp, so it's user controllable. If you want it inside, I strongly recommend a plastic slide or rocker or dip switch, mounted away from that resistor lead.
NTC
Friend of Leo's
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2003
- Posts
- 2,399
...and all of that high voltage.
GotA24Fretter
Tele-Holic
Flip the bolts and nuts holding the fiber board. Those toothed k-lock nuts are meant to bite into metal, and have no appreciable purchase into the fiberboard. I've been big money clones like Headstrong amps with that same error that has resulted in the nut shorting nearby circuitry once it loosened. If you insist on having the nut and bolt in this orientation, use a nylock nut instead.
MojoRick
TDPRI Member
Never fear, that switch is temporary. If I decide I need switchable feedback I will get it outside. In the meantime I am switching with a bamboo skewer. It will only be flipped a couple more times in that location.
MojoRick
TDPRI Member
Thanks for that - will either get nylocks or locktight them.
Mojo probably built the transformer to the same winding spec as the old Fender. the difference is in 1959 the wall power was 110 volts. an old amp with its original tranny will also make higher voltages than the original diagrams show, its a thing. not sayin thats what you have but a good guess I think. there are ways to deal with it
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Uffepungen
Tele-Meister
FWIW, I have put an NFB switch on my 5F11 build, and I think it's a wonderful mod on that amp. I don't think you'll regret permanently mounting it (in a safe way, of course)
Yes; if it's anything like my 6G2 (and it is). That's my only amp where I don't have a pot or alternate resistor; full NFB cut is "just right."
