Modern Strat neck dimensions question

[newuser1]

I have a Strat template set including neck and body, which I have been using for a while. I bought a Mighty Mite licensed Fender neck some time ago, and yesterday I compared my MDF templates to the licensed neck dimensions and they are very different. My neck template is wider (wider from heel to nut) and also my template is about 8mm longer than the Mighty Mite neck (from heel to nut). Please see the attached pics for the template measurement vs the licensed neck.

Did Fender change the Strat neck dimensions over the years, which can account for the difference in my template vs the licensed neck?

What are the standard neck dimensions of a modern Strat neck (heel width, nut width, length of neck from heel to nut, etc.)?

 

[Freeman Keller]

I would trust this

https://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/faq2.aspx

I also have a pretty good set of strat plans with all the details of the pocket. I could scan that and send it to you.

 

[guitarbuilder]

A typical strat neck is 2-3/16" wide in a 2-7/32 wide cavity. Scale length is 25.5. As far as I know, nothing has ever changed. The distance from the 21st fret to the end of the neck is slightly more than the 22nd fret.

According to the Ehawley tele neck drawing, a tele neck has a bit more wood ( .041") than where the 22nd fret falls.


https://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator.html

Nut width is dependent on what you buy...as an example or two.


https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...VErbICh14nQitEAQYAyABEgIN_PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...board?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organicpla

 

[newuser1]

Thanks guys!

What about the length of the neck from nut to heel, is the 18-7/16" (468 mm) listed on the Warmoth site correct?

Also what is the width of the neck at the nut?

 

[guitarbuilder]

Also remember the width of the neck cavity at the 16th fret isn't 2-3/16...the sides are at an angle, more trapazoidal due to the taper of the neck toward the nut.


This might help you out too, as there are Fender blueprints you can download. Notice the tolerance on the neck cavity is +/- 1/32".

https://www.electricherald.com/fender-stratocaster-templates/

 

[Freeman Keller]

My strat plans, which are labeled as a Fender document are for a 1962 guitar. The neck to body joint falls at the 16th fret, the length of the pocket is 3 inch +/- 1/32. The back of the pocket is a 5 inch radius. The back of the pocket is listed as 2.2000/2.1875 and the sides of the pocket taper at 0.84 inches. Holes are spaced 0.750 off the centerline, 0.625 from the back of the pocket and 2.000 between front and back holes.

My drawing does not show the neck dimension, I would certainly trust Warmoth

 

[crazydave911]

Thanks guys!

What about the length of the neck from nut to heel, is the 18-7/16" (468 mm) listed on the Warmoth site correct?

Also what is the width of the neck at the nut?

I usually do 18 3/8 from nut to heel but that sounds right. Width at nut is whatever I want it to be. Usually 1 11/16

Dave

 

[newuser1]

The distance from the 21st fret to the end of the neck is slightly more than the 22nd fret.

According to the Ehawley tele neck drawing, a tele neck has a bit more wood ( .041") than where the 22nd fret falls.

The problem is that my template is longer than the licensed neck (assuming the licensed neck has correct dimensions), which will put the nut further away from the end of the neck pocket. This will screw up the layout of the body itself, because the bridge should be moved closer to the neck pocket to compensate for the fact the neck is longer that it should be, otherwise the scale will become longer and proper intonation will be impossible.

 

[guitarbuilder]

The problem is that my template is longer than the licensed neck (assuming the licensed neck has correct dimensions), which will put the nut further away from the end of the neck pocket. This will screw up the layout of the body itself, because the bridge should be moved closer to the neck pocket to compensate for the fact the neck is longer that it should be, otherwise the scale will become longer and proper intonation will be impossible.

Look at the complete fender body link up above for their dimensions. Generally the 16th fret lands at the body joint at the end of the neck pocket. Your template seems to wide. It should be about 55.6 mm ( 25.4 x 2.188) unless they are giving you material to then sand down. Then there is finish on top of that too don't forget. Sounds like your templates are off.

 

[newuser1]

I usually do 18 3/8 from nut to heel but that sounds right. Width at nut is whatever I want it to be. Usually 1 11/16

Dave

Dave,

Do you have several neck templates with different nut widths? If not how do you control the nut width, while keeping the tapering of the neck from the heel to the nut consistent?

 

[guitarbuilder]

You can do whatever you want as far as neck nut width. Floyd Rose's went up to 1-3/4" wide back in the day. The taper changes but is usually accomodated by the extra play in the neck cavity...remember that 1/32" difference. You can plane your fretboard to the width you want and flush trim the neck to that...avoiding a template altogether.

 

[crazydave911]

You can do whatever you want as far as neck nut width. Floyd Rose's went up to 1-3/4" wide back in the day. The taper changes but is usually accomodated by the extra play in the neck cavity...remember that 1/32" difference. You can plane your fretboard to the width you want and flush trim the neck to that...avoiding a template altogether.

This ∆∆∆ , the only templates I keep are heel and headstock. I lay out the fretscale I want to use (usually 25") I simply draw in straight lines from the heel to headstock with that measurement. The taper and profile therefore change accordingly as I use the facet method to carve the neck. I just don't get that intense with the perfect Fender measurements. I seldom build them anyway

Dave

 

[Freeman Keller]

Pretty much as Dave says. There are three critical neck width measurements - nut width, body joint width (often 16th fret) and spacing at the saddles. Add to that your preferred string off set from the edge of the board any you can lay out any neck you want. Frequently it works out that the width at the 12th fret is the same as the spacing at the saddlesm but I don't count on this.

The fact that Fender has removable necks and a standard for the pocket can be limiting - I always build the neck and body simultaneously

 

[crazydave911]

A for instance, I have a mini-strat I just love but a neck I hate. This is the new neck with my favorite shortscale of 23" and favorite nut width of 1 11/16s. The Tele headstock is my preference as is a Strat headstock on Tele

My only point is build the neck YOU want keeping your eye on the relevant scale length milestones. The rest? Who cares but you

Dave

 

[Freeman Keller]

I'll add two more things about necks and pockets. I always build the neck and body together to insure that they will fit. And I never drill any holes in the body until I've made the neck, I let it establish the center line and the scale.

 

[newuser1]

This ∆∆∆ , the only templates I keep are heel and headstock. I lay out the fretscale I want to use (usually 25") I simply draw in straight lines from the heel to headstock with that measurement. The taper and profile therefore change accordingly as I use the facet method to carve the neck. I just don't get that intense with the perfect Fender measurements. I seldom build them anyway

Dave

Dave, Isn't the heel template you keep already tapered for certain neck/scale length? Do you just start with the very back of the heel where it is widest (essentially the width at the end of the neck) and connect that to the nut?

If the above describes the process correctly, I have 2 follow-up questions:

1. How do you keep the neck lines between heel and nut straight without having template to route it?
2. How do you route your neck pocket without having a template?

I'll add two more things about necks and pockets. I always build the neck and body together to insure that they will fit. And I never drill any holes in the body until I've made the neck, I let it establish the center line and the scale.

Freeman, do you use any templates? What exactly is your process to make sure the neck and neck pocket have proper fit?

 

[Freeman Keller]

Freeman, do you use any templates? What exactly is your process to make sure the neck and neck pocket have proper fit?

Yes, I use the same template which I made from the TDowns plans. I make a neck that fits my template, then use that to route the body. If you put a couple of thicknesses of tape on the side of the template it will make it a few thousands tighter which you can sand off as you fit them together. Neck making starts around post 20, body routing at 50

https://www.tdpri.com/threads/a-chambered-tele-ish-sort-of-thing.884657/

Here is the neck sitting in the template which is screwed to the top of the guitar. I'm lining it with the centerline on the top.

Neck gets removed, waste is drilled out and the pocket is routed

Then, and only then, do I lay out the bridge and pickups. Note the hole in the bridge p/u area - thats where I had the neck template screwed to the top. I just don't trust double stick tape