Minwax True Black stain to darken Indian Laurel fretboard

[sloppychops]

I can tell you it works. Below is a before and after photo of the Indian Laurel fretboard on my Epiphone Wilshire. I applied 4 coats of Minwax True Black stain, allowing about 12 hours between coats. Followed this with a light application of mineral oil using my finger.

So far, so good. No blackened fingers, and the stain is not fading. It's only been a couple days, so time will tell.

 

[Peegoo]

Looks good!

Another option is Fiebing's black leather dye.

All of Fiebing's colors are great for staining wood, and a single application is all you need. I've been using it for many years. It dries really fast and I've aways gotten great results.

 

[sloppychops]

Looks good!

Another option is Fiebing's black leather dye.

All of Fiebing's colors are great for staining wood, and a single application is all you need. I've been using it for many years. It dries really fast and I've aways gotten great results.

I have some Fiebing's and almost used that instead. If the stain starts to fade, I'll put the Fiebing's on next. I used it on a cheapo mini amp cabinet I bought at Goodwill awhile back and it worked well, but it stained the screws. I was nervous about it staining the frets, so I went with the Minwax.

When you've used it, does it wipe off of the frets or do you have to steel wool it off?

 

[Peegoo]

It wipes off the frets no problem. Like with any wood stain, you apply it, allow it to set for a minute or three, and wipe everything dry.

It will stain 'clay' dots and some plastics too, so use caution. One way to prevent it staining clay/other dots or inlays is to paint them with melted paraffin wax.

 

[Musekatcher]

Nice. I keep meaning to try this on some of the lighter fretboards, but I either end up selling the instrument, or its traditional and needs to stay natural. I like Fiebing's, and its alchohol soluable, so you can take a que-tip swab and clean markers while its fresh.

 

[Drak]

I have some Fiebing's and almost used that instead. If the stain starts to fade, I'll put the Fiebing's on next.
I used it on a cheapo mini amp cabinet I bought at Goodwill awhile back and it worked well, but it stained the screws.
I was nervous about it staining the frets, so I went with the Minwax.
When you've used it, does it wipe off of the frets or do you have to steel wool it off?

I also use Fiebing's leather dye to dye fretboards.
The day after I apply it and wipe it off, I usually use StewMacs Fretboard Finishing Oil to 'lock it in'.
Their oil is not an evaporative oil like Lemon Oils are, it leaves a paper thin finish, kinda like a Linseed Oil would.

You can tell that by looking at the top of the bottle after a year or so, there is a gummy build-up of a solids finish around the top cap area.
You'd never see that on a Lemon Oil bottle or any other fretboard oil that is purely 100% evaporative.
I use that s**t on all my necks, reguardless of dyed or not.

 

[sloppychops]

I also use Fiebing's leather dye to dye fretboards.
The day after I apply it and wipe it off, I usually use StewMacs Fretboard Finishing Oil to 'lock it in'.
Their oil is not an evaporative oil like Lemon Oils are, it leaves a paper thin finish, kinda like a Linseed Oil would.

You can tell that by looking at the top of the bottle after a year or so, there is a gummy build-up of a solids finish around the top cap area.
You'd never see that on a Lemon Oil bottle or any other fretboard oil that is purely 100% evaporative.
I use that s**t on all my necks, reguardless of dyed or not.

Good tip, thanks! I wonder if TruOil would have the same result. I have a bottle of that around somewhere.

 

[Drak]

Good tip, thanks!
I wonder if TruOil would have the same result.
I have a bottle of that around somewhere.

I have asked myself that same question several times over the years.
But a bottle of the Stewmac oil is still going strong after having it for probably +/-10 years.
And they formulated that product specifically for the job intended.
So there was never any real need to find out about Tru-Oil on my end.
But I do think Tru-Oil must be a very close cousin of that product.

 

[Chuckster]

Interesting discussion... I have a Squier Bullet fretboard that could go a little darker.

For sealing, I have been very happy with Music Nomad's F1 Oil.

 

[Sea Devil]

Tru-Oil is technically a partly catalyzed varnish. I wouldn't use it on a fretboard. I find MusicNomad F-One oil is pretty good for fretboards, but I've been known to use Montana Pitch-Blend oil as well; even though it's intended for leather, it works well on wood. Another excellent product for fretboards is Feed-N-Wax. the Montana stuff has beeswax, and Feed-N-Wax has carnauba. Not everyone feels good about putting wax on the fretboard, but I like it.

 

[tfarny]

I have asked myself that same question several times over the years.
But a bottle of the Stewmac oil is still going strong after having it for probably +/-10 years.
And they formulated that product specifically for the job intended.
So there was never any real need to find out about Tru-Oil on my end.
But I do think Tru-Oil must be a very close cousin of that product.

There is no need to buy anything other than plain mineral oil from Home Depot for a few dollars a bottle. That stuff protects cutting boards and my raw maple kitchen counters, contains no solvents. A fretboard is just a piece of wood, it has no need for any special formulation. Been doing this for years to all guitars. Most "fretboard oils" are mineral oil with or without a bit of fragrance added though, so no need to throw away your current stuff.

 

[Reedo]

I did mine with a wood stain generic marker a few weeks ago, when I upgraded the wiring and pickups in my CVC Squier to Tex/Mex. I got bored waiting for a new control plate to arrive. I only did one coat, and touched up any paler parts later.

 

[etype]

I have found that if the goal is complete domination of blotch-prone wood (and piano black is the color you want), then Speedball India Ink is a great option. Speedball includes shellac, so that keeps it from rubbing off. I have no idea how it would interact with frets or dots. I do fear you'd have to wipe it off of both as the shellac would allow it to stick.

 

[Reedo]

I have found that if the goal is complete domination of blotch-prone wood (and piano black is the color you want), then Speedball India Ink is a great option. Speedball includes shellac, so that keeps it from rubbing off. I have no idea how it would interact with frets or dots. I do fear you'd have to wipe it off of both as the shellac would allow it to stick.

I have added a further coat, as I really didn't like the blotchy look in my pics. Looks a whole lot better now. and hasn't come off on my hands yet, fortunately. As for dots I just lightly sanded them if I gave them a little covering.

 

[telepraise]

I've been considering this for the Pau Ferro FB on my Player strat (it's just too orange). When I do finally get up the nerve, I'll probably try red-brown TransTint dye in acetone to get the best penetration into the PF, then mineral oil. I worry about finger wear bringing the orange color back up.

 

[Peegoo]

Good tip, thanks! I wonder if TruOil would have the same result. I have a bottle of that around somewhere.

Tru Oil is a wiping varnish intended to leave a hard glossy finish. If that's what you like on rosewood or ebony (think Rickenbacker), go for it. It performs as advertized. Ric does not use Tru Oil; they use a conversion varnish and spray it on.

A really good product that works to lock in a dye is a penetrating sealer such as Danish Oil. These sorts of wiping varnishes are very thin and watery, designed to penetrate the wood and protect it from within--rather than create a protective surface on the wood. I've used the Watco brand for many years with good results every time. Most all products sold as tung oil fall into this category. Danish/tung oils are really not oils at all; they are thin wiping varnishes that contain solvents and driers. Most use polyurethane as their major solids component. The application is wipe on, let soak, wipe dry, repeat. Wiping it dry while still wet prevents slick glossy areas and makes the wood appear to have no finish at all. This is ideal for open-pore woods that you want to feel like wood instead of a plasticky painted surface.

Products sold as "100% pure tung oil" are actually tung oil from the tung tree. This oil works similarly to boiled linseed oil: it oxidizes on exposure to air, but it takes many days to completely dry.

Boiled linseed oil is the traditional finish used on gunstocks because it is extremely weather resistant and is easily repaired if scratched (wipe it on, let it soak for several hours, wipe it off, let dry, repeat several times).

Unboiled linseed oil is like mineral oil; it does not harden and it never completely dries. These sorts of oils can soften the wood if used excessively or left to soak too long. This can lead to lifting frets, popped inlays, delamination of binding, and other real bad juju. It is safe to use if you apply a little to a rag or directly to the wood, and scrub it until dry. Do not 'marinate' the wood. A little goes a very long way.

Products like Howard Feed 'n' Wax work great, and they are applied the same way as any non-hardening oil.

 

[etype]

I've been considering this for the Pau Ferro FB on my Player strat (it's just too orange). When I do finally get up the nerve, I'll probably try red-brown TransTint dye in acetone to get the best penetration into the PF, then mineral oil. I worry about finger wear bringing the orange color back up.

Test that on some scrap first. I fear the mineral oil could reactivate the dye, making a mess of it.

 

[Reedo]

So, I ended up removing the stain with some very fine sandpaper, it has darkened up the board underneath reasonably ok, even though the stain itself was a complete pig to get off. Oh well, you win some, you lose etc. Back to the drawing board.

 

[Collin D Plonker]

Looks good.

 

[rshack1412]

Resurrecting an old threat...

Re: the OP's stain... was it the water-based or oil-based version? Anybody know?