MinWax spray lacquer over Mohawk spray lacquer?

ppg677

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Hi, I have 10+ coats of Mohawk/Behrens Stringed Instrument lacquer sprayed.

I was wondering if it would be a terrible idea to use "Minwax Gloss Brushing Lacquer Spray" for my final few coats over the top? Mainly because I'm out of Mohawk and don't feel like tracking down another can.
 

stratisfied

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It will work but I don't think you will be happy with result compared to the Mohawk product. It's not going to flow out as well and will require more wet sanding than the Mohawk to get it smooth.
 

Silverface

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Hi, I have 10+ coats of Mohawk/Behrens Stringed Instrument lacquer sprayed.

I was wondering if it would be a terrible idea to use "Minwax Gloss Brushing Lacquer Spray" for my final few coats over the top? Mainly because I'm out of Mohawk and don't feel like tracking down another can.
That's not NEARLY enough information.

Sprayed on WHAT? What kind of wood; what sanding sealer; was a paste wood filler used; how are you applying each "coat" (as three quick, thin passes with coverage/flow starting around the 3rd coat; or full coverage with each coat; or varying depending on where it was in the process? Which coats did you sand between, and how; what stains/dyes did you use?

And Did you apply whatever your complete SYSTEM is on scrap - from prep to buffing - until you got good results - before ever touching the guitar?

And post pictures - because TEN coats of properly-applied Mohawk SIL over a sealed surface is about 4 coats past done, in most cases.

Pictures are critical, along with information about every previous process/product - and the wood. Because yes, it would work - but there is absolutely no reason it should be needed.

In other words - there IS no answer to that. Although my first guess is stripping and starting over.
 

eallen

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Hi, I have 10+ coats of Mohawk/Behrens Stringed Instrument lacquer sprayed.

I was wondering if it would be a terrible idea to use "Minwax Gloss Brushing Lacquer Spray" for my final few coats over the top? Mainly because I'm out of Mohawk and don't feel like tracking down another can.
If I recall right Minwax SDS shows a lot of additives with nitro not being as high % as other quality nitros. Some is to retard drying to improve brush streaks flowing out.

As Jim said, more info would be helpful. Out of curiosity, how many cans did you use to do 10 coats? That might at least be a clue to how heavy your coats were.

If done right you shouldn't need anymore.

Eric
 

S00NERMAN

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I would be really concerned about an adverse reaction mixing the 2 products. Safest thing would be to find more of the same product you have on the guitar already.
 

Silverface

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would be really concerned about an adverse reaction mixing the 2 products. Safest thing would be to find more of the same product you have on the guitar already.
Or at LEAST have sprayed a test over one of the scrap test jobs done before starting on the guitar.

Another good reason to ALWAYS apply full systems on similr-grained scrap wood to find out how the products work, refine spray technique - and for those that assume lacquer applies like paint, finding out that full coverage and flow out does't start until the THIRD coat at the earliest; the first could of coats will be mottled/incomplete looking (if clear or a transparent toner ) -

- which means you're doing it RIGHT - and spotty, inconsistent coverage with colors...again, indicating you're on the right track.

Nice smooth, full coverage in one or two coats - or making single "passes" per coat - is like painting a gate or old bike. Note the word "painting".

Lacquer ain't painting. It applies differently, dries differently (DOES NOT CURE - ONLY DRIES BY EVAPORATION.) Website, magazine articles and books that discuss "lacquer cure time" are written by amateurs and/or the uneducated. The ONLY ones that "cure are two component types and pre-catalyzed lacquers.

But conventional solvent-based lacquers (even the ones that list "alkyd enamel" and/or "naphtha" on the MSDS) that contain nitrocellulose (aka "cellulose nitrate") resin, acrylic resin (not always listed on the MSDS because it's not hazardous) - or blends of nitro and acrylic resins ( a LOT of common products)...

-OR- water-based nitrocellulose or acrylic or blended resin lacquers that are not specifically "catalyzed" ALSO dry ONLY BY EVAPORATION.

Non-catalyzed lacquers DO NOT CURE. They "DRY" - by evaporation.

(mic drop)
 

jrblue

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Minwax Gloss Brushing Lacquer Spray
Gloss Brushing Lacquer...Spray? Say what? But who cares. I wouldn't be using Minwax lacquer on a guitar, period. It's formulated for hobbyist furniture finishers. Mohawk is the better product. Use good materials.
 

stratisfied

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Here's a tip. If you're concerned with running out of the good lacquer, use the cheap stuff for the initial coats to build up the finish and then top it with the good lacquer.
 
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ppg677

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If I recall right Minwax SDS shows a lot of additives with nitro not being as high % as other quality nitros. Some is to retard drying to improve brush streaks flowing out.

As Jim said, more info would be helpful. Out of curiosity, how many cans did you use to do 10 coats? That might at least be a clue to how heavy your coats were.

If done right you shouldn't need anymore.

Eric
Hard to say how many cans. Probably 2.5, but this also includes re-sanding off the entire finish of one side of the guitar because my attempt to sand out the orange peal failed (and took off some of the color dye).

Right now the front probably has a solid 10-12 coats that consists of 3 lighter spray passes. Since I re-did the back, the back probably only has about half as many coats.
 




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