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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by joshbot, Feb 16, 2015.
Sandia Man - that's pretty sweet!
Sorry i haven't updated.. work has been a bear.
@Sandia, that tele looks great!
I finished with the electronics (Curtis Novak Single Coils... He made em and shipped within a few days, and they sound fantastic... the guy is a genius) and put everything together with no issues.
I have zero complaints, it looks and plays great. The only negative is that i accidentally let a drop of solder hit and solidify on the back of body, so now i have a dime sized "relic" spot, where i removed the solder and burnt the finish a tiny bit.
It should be easy to touch-up both the paint and the satin top coat, though.. but I spend all free time playing it!
I'll post a final pic and some sounds tonight.
but if you are into a non-traditional finish (especially a flatish one), I'd give it a go, Oldboy. The finish feels durable and tough, but not stifling like the muzzle of epoxy/gloss you find on most mim's
Ive got the body pretty much ready to go now, just waiting for some 320 grit to arrive to give it a final smooth down and I'm good to go, just need to pick the colour really, not in a huge rush cos I dont want to mess things up
Heres a clip of my knee and me doing a few sound tests/ bladerunner tremolo tests basically to demonstrate Novak pickups and crazy usability of the bladerunner.
Its streaming off my dropbox
Looks great, soft and satiny. Sounds great too
Joshbot, did you have any issue with the milk paint coming up a bit with the first pass of tru oil? Or does that stuff stay put?
Even with a cream wax the chalk paint wants to behave like chalk, I was picking up color on the rag with the first coat of oil
I need to post close ups of the blue tele finish, it's not particularly "good", it is uneven and streaky. Your milk paint finish looks smoother but retains that satin quality, I like it very much
I started the painting with the chalk paint on Saturday but got waylaid and havent finished yet, I applied it with a rag to really get it into the pores and rubbed the first coat back with 120 grit which was a bit too strong tbh, I'll be getting it finished this week and leaving it a couple weeks to cure before applying the beeswax, fingers crossed.
I only used tru oil on the neck, but i did paint the headstock with GF Milk Paint.
I finished the body with GF High Performance Satin, also wiped on.
I can't comment on how real milk paint behaves, but the General Finishes version has no powdery quality, like you would expect from chalk. Its more of a hard, non-rubbery enamel, which i think would chip easily if not covered with nitro or poly-u.
Since i brushed on / wiped on, all coats of the finish, there is a slight brushed-on texture to the finish under close inspection. But light sanding between clear coats and a bit of high grit sanding removes most of it.
This is definitely not the type of finish for a glassy look..
I'm not sure about chalk paint, but i did scuff sand the milk paint between coats with a 320 or 400 3m synthetic wool (like scotchbrite pads)
Honestly, the only thing i used actual sand paper for was sanding back raised grain during prep after hitting the wood with water or denatured alc.
Hope that helps =)
Yeah I need to get a couple of hours of preferably dry weather so I can get outside and paint it and rub it back to the desired effect, the paint seems quite tough, tougher than I though it was but we'll see how it looks when I'm finished, I can always start again