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Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by joshbot, Feb 16, 2015.
it's a semi transparent paint
Sort of. The GF Milk Paint im using is more of an acrylic modified to imitate true milk paint.
Actual milk paint is made from milk protein, lime, and organic pigments.
Without the pigments, you would get a sort of whitewash.
A furniture example
I like General Finishes products a lot, but I have not used their version of milk paint.
The milk paint I have used, this stuff: http://www.milkpaint.com/
is a powder that comes packaged in a brown paper bag. Even after mixing, it seems to be kind of gritty, maybe it's the lime, but unless you had a very large orifice on your spray gun, I don't think you could get it to spray. I could be mistaken, I've never tried that.
I have used all kinds of milk paint colors under and over others, and have never had any bleed between layers. It is often used in just that way by antique furniture replicators to emulate an old piece that's been painted different colors over the years, and some areas of paint wear off from use, to expose an area of different color(s) underneath. It just occurred to me that somebody with a good eye for color and an artist's streak could probably use this technique to do some interesting work on a guitar.
The gf version is quite smooth. I havent used the real version of milk paint, but yeah it definitely seems kinda gritty. I would try it on furniture, but stay away from musical instruments with it, but thats just my preference.
I imagine that a two or three color layer distress job with some contrasting colors like blue/orange or yellow/black would look very cool.
I finished the top coat with 5 coats of Satin GF High Performance Poly brushed on with a foam brush and scuffed back with some synthetic steel wool between coats.
The look is very soft, like those steamy penthouse shots from the 70s
I put a few coats of paint on the head stock and finished the neck in tru oil (wiped on / 6 very thin coats), with the same scuff process for a satin finish.
Im just waiting on my 42mm TUSQ nut and debating whether to use my wilkinson trem or drop the money on a bladerunner.
On a sidenote, anyone have any experience with these, good or bad?
After assembling everything and making sure its actually playable, ill probably get some novaks or lollars and for neck and mid, and something hotter for the bridge, like a jb jr.
Im thinking either black or tortoise/dark red for the pick guard.
You guys are a cool/smart bunch of guys and I enjoy your feedback =)
Thanks for reading. I ll post more pics as progress happens.
umm, well, ahem, I wouldn't know anything about those soft, steamy shots from Penthouse in the 70's , but your Strat is definitely sexy, and that red pick guard is almost a little too hot, but IMO, it's fabulous, and definitely the way to go. very nice work.
Wow, very nice.
Did you top the milk paint with Tru oil on the headstock?
"I never felt I had enough personal style to pursue being just a guitarist."
- B. Springsteen
Thanks guys =)
Yes, I did 5 or 6 of Tru Oil on the headstock as well.
That looks great. I love satiny finishes and that is screaming for a parchment or aged white pickguard with cream plastics. Love that look.
Thank you for the compliment Loudog =)
Just an update while i wait for pickups and electronics
I decided on a Bladerunner bridge, which is amazing btw. I recommend getting one if you like tremolos and using/abusing them.
The nut and tremolo arrived so i assembled all the pieces. Much to my delight, she plays very well. Very articulate and clearly voiced with very little adjustment needed beyond the trem height and a bit of nut sanding to get proper clearance. I love it and cant wait to drop some pickups it.
Linked is a pic with the pick guard on (not actually attached yet)
Ill post again when its done with an image and sound clips perhaps.
Below links are images from earlier on as my hosting company is on pause
That looks really good, Ive just scored a 'reliced' Squier modified body off eBay and was looking for a bit of inspiration in the painting dept, milk paint isnt as common over here in the UK so will need to do a bit of searching, but hey, nice guitar mate
Thank you very much Oldboy.
I found this link for GF milk paint, which is what i used.
Thanks Bud, Ive found a UK supplier of GF stuff plus a couple that do powdered paint you add luke warm water too, I recently saw a Telecaster in a UK guitar mag that looked it was a weathered paint job,not relic'd, just a bit careworn as if it was on a seaside beach hut or something, good luck with yours mate
what color is that reliced Squier body?
In my experience with "real" milk paint (the powdered stuff, not the GF type, which I haven't tried), it is really hard to cover up a previously painted surface, you need a "bonding agent" (basically, clear acrylic paint) mixed in with the milk paint for the first layer, and then do quite a few layers to cover up the original paint; in my experience, milk paint works best with unpainted wood...
You might try chalk paint, though - it achieves a very similar look to milk paint, is more durable, and most importanly, works very well on previously painted surfaces, you don't even need a primer, some light sanding of the previous paint will do, then just put 1-3 layers of chalk paint on top (depends on how dark the original color is...)
Chalk paint is available commercially, I just mix mine myself - I use about to parts of acrylic paint to one part of chalk (the powdered type - calcium carbonate), and add water to achieve the desired thickness/viscosity.
Here are some more recipes (mine is #1 in the article):
Hey RomanS, the body is a kind of metallic maroon, the plan is to go down to bare wood and start again, a lot depends on the wood pattern tbh, its Indian red cedar so not sure what the patterns like, probably not great but I'll see, thanks you for the info though
Have you any pics of guitars with a chalk paint finish?
I would be curious to see a finished product.
I have only used it on furniture, not guitars...
One of the most attractive things about milk paint for me would be not having to deal with lacquer in the neck pocket etc
Chalk paint and tru oil.
Going to try milk paint on a MIM strat and see how that goes.
Hey Joshbot, hows the project coming along ? got mine down to the bare wood now but going to have to go for a solid colour though due to having to fill a quite large area on the back