Metric dimensions

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by kinndi, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. kinndi

    kinndi TDPRI Member

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    I wonder if someone could point me to a high-res diagram showing all dimensions in millimetres, including where exactly to drill holes.

    I've been searching online but while there are some great plans available, all seem to have the 2 3/16th, 7 5/8th style inch dimensions.

    I'm afraid tiny fractions of inches are like double Dutch to me! I can only do exact measurements in millimetres. All my drill bits and rulers are in millimetres.

    Thanks
     
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  2. Uncle Daddy

    Uncle Daddy Tele-Afflicted

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  3. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Holic

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    I have an app for that, called converter+.
    8E93D4D2-2954-4656-98AC-AE9282246BBB.png
    This is just some of the stuff it does.
     
  4. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    In this link is a drawing called body pdf. Print it out full size. The neck cavity as well as the pickup cavity are the same depth 5/8" ( 15.875 mm). The control cavity is 1.50"( 38. 1 mm deep) The body is 1.75 (44.45) mm thick. The bridge pickup rout is .850 " deep ( 21.59 mm). The neck holes are . 166 "(4.2 mm). The ferrule holes ( 5/16") 7.94 mm. The counterbore for ferrules is 3/8" (9.525mm) The control cavity is 1" wide. (25.4mm) by 5.570 (141.48mm) long. That's pretty much all you need unless you are going to draw the whole thing over.

    See the tdowns drawing in post 585 of the sticky on the main page. The sticky thread is called d size tele body blueprint or something like that. post 585 is the pdf that opens right up.


    https://www.gitarrebassbau.de/viewtopic.php?t=6
     
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  5. kinndi

    kinndi TDPRI Member

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    Thanks - I have often used those online converters but for so many tiny imperial measurements it's not the same as having a metric plan with exact dimensions. For Europeans, those 3/16th and 11/32nd are just crazy! Surely there's a metric plan somewhere. Metric drill bits and screws are never identical to imperial.
     
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  6. bottlenecker

    bottlenecker Friend of Leo's

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    Inches times 25.4 equals millimeters.
    Fractions suck. So do that math first. 3/16" (3 divided by 16)= .1875".
    .1875 x 25.4 = 4.7625mm.
    Round that off wherever you want.
    You can make the metric print. It'll probably be less time and frustration with a calculator than with google.
     
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  7. dsutton24

    dsutton24 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Welcome to the forum.

    What are you drilling holes in? If you already have a drawing all it takes is a bit of patience and an online converter to do what you want.
     
  8. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    It's not as difficult as you think. Any American guitar is going to be in Imperial. As mentioned above download the plan, print it out in full size and you have maybe 8 measurements to convert and write it out on the plan.
     
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  9. telestratosonic

    telestratosonic Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Canada 'went metric' in the 80s. However, oil refinery construction projects are never metric. Sheets of plywood and lumber are still in Imperial because most Canadian wood products are sold in the US.
    Tape measures can be bought in metric, imperial or with metric on one side and imperial on the other. One with both would have solved your problem.
     
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  10. kinndi

    kinndi TDPRI Member

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    Thanks. I'm making a body from a slab of alder.
     
  11. kinndi

    kinndi TDPRI Member

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    Yes, I have a tape measure with metric on one side and imperial on the other, BUT . . . I don't want to drill a hole 1/64th :( away from where it should be! Accuracy is vital. :rolleyes:
     
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  12. rexhunta

    rexhunta Tele-Meister

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    PM your email address, I have a complete pdf in mm for us who use the better system.
     
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  13. swervinbob

    swervinbob Friend of Leo's

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    I never understood why the US never went metric. Why not have everything in base 10. And this is from someone who is good at math and finds doing conversions challenging and fun.
     
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  14. ricknbaker

    ricknbaker Tele-Afflicted

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  15. trapdoor2

    trapdoor2 Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    Inertia. Like herding cats.

    The guitar was designed/produced to imperial units. When a metric person "converts" an imperial drawing to metric, rounding errors creep in: 3/8" becomes 10mm...but 9.5mm is actual. Are you willing to work to actual or is the metric version "close enough"?

    This is one reason why we have aftermarket part issues.
     
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  16. kinndi

    kinndi TDPRI Member

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    Yes indeed, it's the rounding off that bothers me. Try finding a 4.7625mm drill bit! o_O
     
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  17. kinndi

    kinndi TDPRI Member

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    No, that's it. It's not 'close enough'. All my hardware is European (metric). Drill bits are all metric. It'll have to be a Eurocaster. :(
     
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  18. kinndi

    kinndi TDPRI Member

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    You could design a Brexitcaster. Couldn't be much worse than the shipping delays and import duties that it has caused. :p
     
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  19. trapdoor2

    trapdoor2 Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    That's what I figured...and not really an issue. The body shape is immaterial. The location/position relationships that are sensitive should be calculated...but location/position isn't really related to size.

    IOW, finding the position of the bridge plate should be reasonably exact (calculated)...but the hole sizes just need to fit your metric hardware.
     
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  20. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I just pulled up a couple PDFs of what appear to be a copies of Fender documents. The dimensions are Imperial, but not in fractions...it's all decimal inches. That said, I design and cut my guitar CNC work in metric...I don't honestly remember if I converted dimensions myself or if the original file I bought to learn from was already in metric. I suspect the latter. Actually, I do most of my woodworking in metric, having switched about three years ago to that preference. I do use dual-scale rules, digital calipers, etc., to make things easier. I really do understand the OP's concern here!

    For guitar work, I agree with trapdoor2 that "shapes" are less of an issue. Doing the conversion for just a few key dimensions is where it's at...scale, thickness, depth of pockets, etc. But it's a fact of life that if one is taking something that was originally designed in one measurement system "back in the day", a preference or need to work in a different dimensioning standard is going to involve some math. Fortunately, the Internet makes that easy...just type what you need into Google and bam...you have the number of units in the direction you want to go.
     
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