neknufelet
Tele-Meister
Was always under the impression maple had more of a 'snap' when played, though never did a comparison.
All of my "'60s-era reproduction" necks (Vintera IIs and TL-62Bs mostly) have rosewood boards and heel truss rod adjustments- except for the Jason Isbell necks. Those are "'60s-era reproduction" necks with rosewood boards and a headstock truss rod adjustment. Love the practicality of that, as the humidity fluctuates a bit here. That said, my heel truss rod necks don't move much season to season- maybe a couple thousandths of an inch at the 8th fret. I set them up to account for the movement, so very close to the Fender "standard" for 7.25" radius necks (1.75mm-2mm on the bass side and 1.5mm-1.75mm on the treble) to avoid choking out on bends. All of the bodies that have heel truss rod necks have the cutaway and the neck pickup mounted to the body. Unscrew the pickguard, slide it under the strings, and use a Hosco truss rod wrench to tweak it 1/8 of a turn or so. Not really an onerous task, and very rarely required.I can’t do a maple board. There is one exception— a Grabber bass in black looks nice with the maple. Everything else? No thank you.
It’s just not what I learned on. I don’t know what wood early 2000s Squiers used, but their rosewood or rosewood substitute was what I had.
If I had a maple guitar then maybe I’d like them more. Maybe if I was born in Stockholm I’d speak Swedish. But they all look awkward to me, even the “Classic” tele options.
It saves me a lot of grief because I won’t play a guitar without a headstock truss Rod adjustment. And HSTR and rosewood don’t go together on throwback guitars. Any of the revival series that have “60s” Teles with rosewood usually have truss Rod adjustments at the heel— no thank you.
I’ll ebony is really nice too and Indian laurel is ok— Id prefer it over pao ferro.
When I'm looking at used guitars, yes I skip over almost every maple board guitar - unless it has stainless frets, or was never played much. Because it is so easy to spoil the finish on the board when refretting them.I both play and work on guitars. Personally I would never own a maple fretboard and I've stopped refretting them.
Nothing like a rosewood (or other tropical wood board) guitar on a stupidly hot/humid Southern day or night. I found that sweat tended to accumulate on those poly finished maple boards and my fingers "hydroplaned" right off the board and into clam-land.Stamping/Stomping right foot loudly!!!
It’s rosewood guys, rose-wood!
Get in line!
Get it right!
Sit up straight!
Eyes forward!
My post was obviously not (too) serious.Nothing like a rosewood (or other tropical wood board) guitar on a stupidly hot/humid Southern day or night. I found that sweat tended to accumulate on those poly finished maple boards and my fingers "hydroplaned" right off the board and into clam-land.
But.
Let's say it is the dead of winter, and there's a rosewood board guitar that's not been played in a good long while. Try and play that thing for an hour - and get your fingertips chapped or burnt. Maple is the solution for that. Unless you wanna fill and finish the rosewood?
Wow. You are on the wrooooonnnnnngggg forum. Zealotry is like a prerequisite here.Not a zealot, just have a preference.
My vote is rosewood, or other available darker fretboard wood. Ebony if I can get it. Not a zealot, just have a preference.