Mallory and Irvine, Everest 1924.

Deeve

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Jon Krakaur's book Into Thin Air has a bit about under-prepared tourist-grade climbers who have eye-watering credit card limits.
Some expect to be hauled up the mountain by short-rope in exchange for the guide-fee.

While I can complete 100 stories on the stair machine as a part of my cardio game, there's no way I'd consider myself Everest-ready.
:eek:
 

Mike M

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FYI, in the news recently

China is accused of secretly REMOVING dead British mountaineer Sandy Irvine's body from world's highest peak – and hiding camera that could prove he climbed the mountain first with George Mallory in 1924

"If Mallory and Irvine did reach the top of Everest, they would also have been the first to successfully do it on the deadly North Face, nearly 40 years before Chinese climbers accomplished the feat in 1960. "

 

Powdog

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The Hillary Step is gone in this photo.

The way to make the mountain safer, less polluted and crowded, is to disallow supplemental oxygen.
I don’t know about safer. A lot more climbers would be dying of acute hypoxia. Reinhold Messner did it without supplemental oxygen and so did Anatoli Boukreev, but most folks can’t do that. Even with oxygen bottles your lungs and brain take a serious beating.
 

jimmywrangles

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Interesting stuff. I find no need to want to climb Everest especially in a crowd where I would lose control of my own destiny if something went wrong.
My preferred method of high altitude climbing is to sit on my bum and watch other people do it on YouTube. It's just safer that way.😇
 

jimmywrangles

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The Hillary Step is gone in this photo.

The way to make the mountain safer, less polluted and crowded, is to disallow supplemental oxygen.
After the deaths of 16 Sherpa's in 2014 a second route that skips the Khumbu icefall has been proposed that would have the climbers ascending an ice wall on Nuptse and then traversing across Nuptse and abseiling down onto the glacier above the ice fall, this route is a serious piece of climbing and would surely lower the numbers on the mountain and save lives, especially Sherpa lives.
I believe this could be the solution.
EDIT: The red line on this map is wrong, the red and blue lines are the proposed new path, the old route followed the glacier.
Everest-1638542499.jpg
 
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beyer160

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FYI, in the news recently

China is accused of secretly REMOVING dead British mountaineer Sandy Irvine's body from world's highest peak – and hiding camera that could prove he climbed the mountain first with George Mallory in 1924

"If Mallory and Irvine did reach the top of Everest, they would also have been the first to successfully do it on the deadly North Face, nearly 40 years before Chinese climbers accomplished the feat in 1960. "

Not to be pedantic or take away from the accomplishments of Mallory and Irvine, but regardless of whether they summitted or not I wouldn't call their attempt "successful" when neither one survived.
 

tomkatf

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“14 Peaks” is a good look into elite climbing… interestingly Everest is nowhere near the most dangerous climb with an overall fatality rate to climbers of approximately 1%… K2 and Annapurna have a climber fatality rate of approx. 25% and 30% respectively… Although over a much smaller sample size. Nearly 1 in 3 for Annapurna… :oops:
 
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jimmywrangles

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“14 Peaks” is a good look into elite climbing… interestingly Everest is nowhere near the most dangerous climb with an overall fatality rate to climbers of approximately 1%… K2 and Annapurna have a climber fatality rate of approx. 25% and 30% respectively… Although over a much smaller sample size. Nearly 1 in 3 for Annapurna… :oops:
Nanga Parbat is also right up there.A lot of Germans died trying to summit that mountain over several expeditions. The start of the movie "7 years in Tibet" is about exactly that.
Interestingly Annapurna was climbed on the very first attempt by a French team although they suffered terrible frostbite injuries and payed a price that was way too high IMHO.
 

Buckocaster51

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I’ve been to 14,000 feet in Colorado. That is about the elevation of Everest base camp. I don’t think I ever had what it took to go higher.

By the way, the Synnott book mentions that the 2nd Surveyor General of India pronounced his name EVE-rest not EVER-est as we do today.
 




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