acl5280
Tele-Meister
Well gonna make a custom tele deluxe pickguard template and a deluxe tele rear rout body template. Question for the Pro's is: 3/4" MDF the right choice for templates? Thanks guys!
Alex
Alex
Making Templates, what thickness and any other tips.
- Thread starter acl5280
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gitlvr
Friend of Leo's
That's what most use. I use 3/4" birch ply, because I don't like the mdf dust, and I build templates by hand, and the plywood lends itself to a wood rasp better than the mdf does.
I know a couple of builders who use 1/4" material, whether mdf or other(I've seen mylar, Plexiglas, corian and even steel used). It's all in what you prefer. I tend to use 1/4" for master templates and 3/4" for the working ones because that's what works best for me.
Not a pro by any stretch of the imagination, however.
I know a couple of builders who use 1/4" material, whether mdf or other(I've seen mylar, Plexiglas, corian and even steel used). It's all in what you prefer. I tend to use 1/4" for master templates and 3/4" for the working ones because that's what works best for me.
Not a pro by any stretch of the imagination, however.
mojoatomic
Tele-Holic
I cut 1/4" templates in MDF and acrylic and use them as masters, and I use 1/2" or 3/4" MDF working templates depending on what I'm doing and what router bits I have that are sharp... 
If I were to settle on a median size good for most things, it would be 3/4".
I sometimes will also make a template out clear acrylic (if I'm making multiple bodies or if I intend to make several of the same shape) simply for the purpose of placing the template on the blank to find where the grain looks the best and marking the outline.
If I were to settle on a median size good for most things, it would be 3/4".
I sometimes will also make a template out clear acrylic (if I'm making multiple bodies or if I intend to make several of the same shape) simply for the purpose of placing the template on the blank to find where the grain looks the best and marking the outline.
If you look closely at the edge of an MDF board and check the density in the core vs the faces, look at how the stuff is pressed and how fluffy the core is, you'll find 1/2" material has the hardest center core because the two higher density faces are closer together than in 3/4" material, making 1/2" a better choice IMO.
1/4 is even better for core density but it presents other issues when routing.
1/4 is even better for core density but it presents other issues when routing.
the reason ya make 'em from 3/4 MDF is it allows a 1" deep bit to do the work of several different lengths......
as for the softness... getcha a bottle of thin CA from a Hobby shop, wet the edges, and it will be header'n a teenager's head...
Ron Kirn
as for the softness... getcha a bottle of thin CA from a Hobby shop, wet the edges, and it will be header'n a teenager's head...
Ron Kirn
acl5280
Tele-Meister
Thanks everyone!!!
Get a shorter bit and you can use thinner templates. I love the stewmac template bits but I hate MDF. They are 1/2" long cutters but their long shank allows you to go and do a control cavity 1.5" deep.
My patterns are 1/4 birch or poplar ply and occasionally just regular pine. No need to make a master of any of these because if it gets messed up, a little plastic wood fixes it. Different strokes for different folks.
My patterns are 1/4 birch or poplar ply and occasionally just regular pine. No need to make a master of any of these because if it gets messed up, a little plastic wood fixes it. Different strokes for different folks.
kdanie
TDPRI Member
I use 1/4" mdf for pickguards because it's easy to get it to the correct shape then stick the material on it and route it with the Stewmac 1/2" template bit. Works great on the router table as long as you go the correct direction, if you don't the bit will grab the piece and chuck it across the room.
For cavities I use 1/4" mdf to get the shape right then make a working template from 3/4" mdf.
ken
For cavities I use 1/4" mdf to get the shape right then make a working template from 3/4" mdf.
ken
Bentley
Friend of Leo's
I just use 1/2 for everything. It's cheap, easy to work, but not too easy, it's still pretty durable, and with a 1/2inch bit it allows for a lot of different cuts. I typically don't make working templates, because I haven't ever made a template I am 100 percent happy with and so far all my builds have been a little irregular.
Flynztone
Tele-Holic
I started with the mdf standard that many use here on these forums but after routing into the 1/4" stuff and setting off the smoke alarms throughout my house I too decided to seek alternatives. I was advised by guitarbuilder that a good alternative would be a Baltic birch plywood so I went to the only lumberyard left in my home town and purchased a sheet of 3/4" Baltic birch that is pretty much void free. It wasn't cheap though
In hindsight I wish I had gone with 1/2" Baltic birch plywood as I too have the smaller bits that StewMac sells along with a couple 1" bits from my local home center. The mdf is readily available and a cheaper alternative to a quality ply but I just don't like working with the stuff especially routing or sanding it. If you do decide to go with the mdf make sure to heed the respirator warnings and do any routing of that stuff outside if you can. I have enough of this Baltic birch to make templates for a couple years I think but I do wish I had purchased 1/2" as opposed to 3/4"
No matter what you use, you'll probably end up with several templates for different things. Different pickup configurations, routs, f-holes, thinline cavities, etc. Make sure you "index" them all the same. IOW, put the screw holes you'll use to mount them to your various bodies in the exact same place (off your master) on every one.
+1 on the 3/4 MDF with the edges dressed with CA, by the way (Ron knows everything!)
Rex
+1 on the 3/4 MDF with the edges dressed with CA, by the way (Ron knows everything!)
Rex
Flynztone
Tele-Holic
Engraver-60
Friend of Leo's
About 4 years ago, I had the pleasure of touring the little known Nashville Fender Custom Shop. That's where they make the Artist's models of Gretsch and other Fender brands, as well as repairs. They use only Baltic Birch 3/4" plywood for their working templates, and have masters of aluminum hanging on the walls to replicate the workers if needed.
Flynztone
Tele-Holic
Interesting
nosmo
Friend of Leo's
They can replicate workers with aluminum templates?
That must drive the unions crazy!
gitlvr
Friend of Leo's
One of the reasons I use birch ply is because I build by hand, and square the edges with a decent wood rasp. I don't think mdf would stand up to that.
The second reason is it's a lot more durable to rough handling. No matter what you seal the edges of the mdf with, birch ply is still a lot more durable, especially on the edges where it counts. I'm a Klutz. I need that extra strength.
If I were running a factory where my templates were handled by workers of varying skill levels and dispositions, I think I'd do the same as Fender does here.
I couldn't get 1/4" mdf so made two, I think one is 9mm and the other is 16mm I'll check sometime. But it was a better move as I can arrange them as both, then thick, then thin, then none as my plunge router can't go the whole depth properly. See my former challenge thread I'm still working on.
