Making Broadcaster Style Knobs

GKCF

TDPRI Member
Joined
May 27, 2008
Posts
29
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
I wanted some tall, heavy knurled, broadcaster style knobs for the finishing touch on my first build. A few vendors sell them but, I thought $50+ for a pair was a bit steep after I'll I've spent already. Plus, I have a small milling machine out back and a metal supply store down the road, so I thought... why not make them myself?

$12 later for chunk of 3/4 brass round stock and I went to work.

After it gets cut into a more manageable section, I clamp it into the mill with a v-block and face off the cut.

kinprog1.jpg

Next, we use a 3/4 collet to hold it in the spindle and turn the mill into a lathe so we can knurl it.

kinprog2.jpg

With all the oil and fine brass particles, it can make quite a mess so I clean it up with mineral spirits and shop towels before the next step, otherwise it looks like Goldfinger paid a visit.

Next step is to make the dome.

kinprog3.jpg

I'd like to get a radius cutter for this. I'm doing it by hand with files and sandpaper right now so, they all end up being a little different. Then again, so were the originals. Leo didn't care if they matched... but I kind of still do...

Anyway, we need to cut that knurled section down into an actual knob and face off the opposite end. It's back to the v-block with some leather to protect the knurling and hold it down nice and tight.

kinprog4.jpg

I pick up the center with an edge finder and then it gets locked in and center drilled.

kinprog5.jpg

I drill the 1/4 holes for the pot shafts with an undersized drill bit mounted in a mill collet instead of the drill chuck. This way, everything fits all nice and tight when it's finished and not horribly loose and crooked. If you're more competent than me, your results may differ.

kinprog6.jpg

Then I break out a 5/8 drill bit, mount it in a collet as well for stability, and make that giant counter sink hole to fit the pot washer and give it that nice conical step like the original 50's knobs.

kinprog7.jpg

Next, it goes back into the 3/4 collet to round off the bottom. (Yes it's crooked, I had already finished it and decided I should document this step too).

kinprog10.jpg

It goes back into the vise for the set screw hole where it gets drilled and then taped.

kinprog9.jpg

Now, we have a finished knob.

kinprog11.jpg

After I clean out all the chips and give a wipe down the mineral spirits, I can let it into the house for the next part of the process.
 

Beebe

Tele-Afflicted
Joined
Jun 1, 2021
Posts
1,365
Location
Atlanta
Very nice! Are you planning on plating em? I watched some videos recently on Nickel plating at home. It looked pretty straight forward... and affordable if you already have a power source.
 

old wrench

Friend of Leo's
Joined
Feb 2, 2017
Posts
3,908
Location
corner of walk and don't walk
Very nice work !!!

It's definitely more difficult to make them on a mill like that than on lathe -

But, we use what we have - right?

That really looks great - the knurling looks nice and clean

Most likely they were originally made on a turret lathe where the individual tools used to make the cuts and knurling would all be mounted in the turret and could just be rotated into place


edit - I suppose most of us look at a Tele knob but don't realize the work that goes into actually making one

Maybe some nickel plating?

Or is that too much to hope for? :)
.
 
Last edited:

ndcaster

Doctor of Teleocity
Joined
Nov 14, 2013
Posts
11,974
Location
Indiana
kewl

I had never seen a "knurler" contraption before -- I thought they were sliced in with some spindly thing

how does the knurler work? is it like a press?
 

GKCF

TDPRI Member
Joined
May 27, 2008
Posts
29
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
Awesome. I wish I had your tools in my shop. Oh, and a shop.

Thanks! I said that to myself for years and I finally decided that, I had a shed, the shed had a workbench, and I had enough money for a bench top mill. I wish I had done it years ago.

Very nice work !!!

It's definitely more difficult to make them on a mill like that than on lathe -

But, we use what we have - right?

Maybe some nickel plating?

Or is that too much to hope for? :)

Yeah, a lathe would have made it much easier. I hope to pick on up eventually but, like you said, we have to make do with that we've got.

These are absolutely getting nickel plated. I've already done some, I just need to take some photos.

kewl

I had never seen a "knurler" contraption before -- I thought they were sliced in with some spindly thing

how does the knurler work? is it like a press?

Yes, this particular one is a pinch knurler. The two arms pinch the material as it spins and press the grooves into it. There are other types but, I went with this kind because it seemed more stable for my setup. Before the knurling, the brass is .750 and after knurling, it gets pressed out to about .760.
 

GKCF

TDPRI Member
Joined
May 27, 2008
Posts
29
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
So, when we left off, our freshly machined brass knobs are clean but... brass.

I have not invested in a buffing set up so I use a dremel with buffing wheels, the red compound that came with it, and a little automotive rubbing compound on a rag to finish it up. The knurling eats up the wheels after awhile and it's hard to get a good polish inside the knurles but, I try to do the best I can. If you're using a benchtop or pedestal buffing wheel, you can probably get in there and really shine it up.

This ends up pretty messy so, I didn't take any pictures but, they should be nice and shiny when you're done. Like so:

kinprog12.jpg

You really want to clean all the black gunk and buffing wheel fibers out before you move on to plating. It's also important to try and clean off surface contaminants like finger oils and such. After a good scrub with soap, water and a toothbrush (preferably not the one you use in the morning) I spray them down with alcohol.

Next, we need to prepare the plating set up.

kinprog13.jpg

This is nickel acetate. I made mine by filling a small bowl with vinegar and a little kosher salt and placing 2 nickel electrodes on either side, making sure they don't touch. I've heard if you use graphite for one of the electrodes the nickel will plate out into the solution faster but I didn't have any. After running current from a 9v DC wall charger for a few hours I had a nice green liquid.

I already had a batch made so I poured that into my plating bowl, if yours is freshly made, you can just leave it there.

kinprog14.jpg

Pure nickel rod is clipped to the positive side. You want to make sure that only the nickel touches the green stuff.

I use a piece of brass to make a conductive hook to attach to the knob. The negative lead gets clipped to it and in it goes.

kinprog15.jpg

It will bubble and change color pretty quickly.

kinprog16.jpg

It's important to rotate the part a few times as you let it plate. The side facing the nickel anode plates quicker than the side opposite. I don't have a specific time frame, maybe a minute, no longer than 2. I want to build up a good nickel coating so that you can buff it to a shine without burn through but, you can also run into problems if it gets too thick. It can build up in larger crystals that flake off. It's a science... and one that I don't know very well. 😅

Anyhow...

kinprog17.jpg

It's nice and silver/grey and it stinks like vinegar. I give it a rinse with alcohol and dry it with paper towels and it goes back to the dremel. I strictly use automotive rubbing compound for this, I don't want to chance burning through the nickel. After the dremel I give it a final hand polish with rubbing compound on a rag. Of course it gets all dirty again so, the cleaning products and toothbrush come back out to get it all nice and clean.

kinprog18.jpg

If you did everything right, you have nice shiny nickel knobs ready for your guitar.

kinprog19.jpg
 

peterg

Tele-Holic
Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Posts
662
Age
61
Location
Toronto
So, when we left off, our freshly machined brass knobs are clean but... brass.

I have not invested in a buffing set up so I use a dremel with buffing wheels, the red compound that came with it, and a little automotive rubbing compound on a rag to finish it up. The knurling eats up the wheels after awhile and it's hard to get a good polish inside the knurles but, I try to do the best I can. If you're using a benchtop or pedestal buffing wheel, you can probably get in there and really shine it up.

This ends up pretty messy so, I didn't take any pictures but, they should be nice and shiny when you're done. Like so:

View attachment 1089890

You really want to clean all the black gunk and buffing wheel fibers out before you move on to plating. It's also important to try and clean off surface contaminants like finger oils and such. After a good scrub with soap, water and a toothbrush (preferably not the one you use in the morning) I spray them down with alcohol.

Next, we need to prepare the plating set up.

View attachment 1089889

This is nickel acetate. I made mine by filling a small bowl with vinegar and a little kosher salt and placing 2 nickel electrodes on either side, making sure they don't touch. I've heard if you use graphite for one of the electrodes the nickel will plate out into the solution faster but I didn't have any. After running current from a 9v DC wall charger for a few hours I had a nice green liquid.

I already had a batch made so I poured that into my plating bowl, if yours is freshly made, you can just leave it there.

View attachment 1089888

Pure nickel rod is clipped to the positive side. You want to make sure that only the nickel touches the green stuff.

I use a piece of brass to make a conductive hook to attach to the knob. The negative lead gets clipped to it and in it goes.

View attachment 1089887

It will bubble and change color pretty quickly.

View attachment 1089886

It's important to rotate the part a few times as you let it plate. The side facing the nickel anode plates quicker than the side opposite. I don't have a specific time frame, maybe a minute, no longer than 2. I want to build up a good nickel coating so that you can buff it to a shine without burn through but, you can also run into problems if it gets too thick. It can build up in larger crystals that flake off. It's a science... and one that I don't know very well. 😅

Anyhow...

View attachment 1089885

It's nice and silver/grey and it stinks like vinegar. I give it a rinse with alcohol and dry it with paper towels and it goes back to the dremel. I strictly use automotive rubbing compound for this, I don't want to chance burning through the nickel. After the dremel I give it a final hand polish with rubbing compound on a rag. Of course it gets all dirty again so, the cleaning products and toothbrush come back out to get it all nice and clean.

View attachment 1089884

If you did everything right, you have nice shiny nickel knobs ready for your guitar.

View attachment 1089883
Wow! You’ve shown me a whole new level of skill I wasn’t aware of.
 

RoscoeElegante

Poster Extraordinaire
Ad Free Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Posts
5,400
Location
TooFarFromCanada
Sheeee-zam, that's fine work! So nice to see craftsmanship of this caliber. Thanks for so clearly showing and explaining that, and enjoy your guitar.
 

telemnemonics

Telefied
Ad Free Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2010
Posts
36,283
Age
63
Location
Maine
WOW!
Nice!


That came out to less than $50 though???

Funny, I paid I think $35 for a pair of machined aluminum knobs from a small specialty milling shop, they sell various guitar parts in aluminum.
Got old and still want to play standing up!
 




New Posts

Top