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LP Jr DC type thing

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by CraigB, Dec 26, 2018.

  1. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks Mac! It's a fun build, GO FOR IT!!!

    Had a window of opportunity to get a couple things done today. A little blue sky, time off slip, and I was outta there at noon.

    I should've done the roundover on the back before cutting the mortise. The drawing I have calls for a 3/16" round. I only have 1/8" and 1/4". Went with the 1/8" with only about half the bearing riding over that part. The 1/4" wouldn't have had anything for the bearing to follow there.

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    That went well, only a slight bit of burn

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    Next, I pulled out the ROSS and took about 1/16" off the back of the headstock. Cleaned up with a scraper.

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    Then the clouds rolled in and a few raindrops...shut it down for the day
     
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  2. Barncaster

    Barncaster Doctor of Teleocity

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    Gotta be careful when you mix fur and beer....
     
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  3. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    I'll take your word for it, good advice ;)

    Everybody had a hard week around here, so there were some drinks poured. But unlike everyone else, my alarm went off at 5:00, cleared the decks of some work I had to do and headed out to the garage. This didn't make too much noise, and I'm not sure anyone would've noticed even if it did

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    After everyone got up stumbling around looking for coffee, I had already brewed another pot, so headed out to start getting the headstock overlay together.

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    Used some dowel as register pins for gluing up and the clamp-athon

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    After a couple hours took it out of the clamps and routed flush

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    And then drilling through

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    I think this will work

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  4. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Now that looks really good. I worked a very small bit on my headstock overlay. I thought it was too large for the headstock, then I realized I'd purposely cut outside the lines (so it was too large). Whew. That Fletcher series of videos is very informative. I've gleaned a few ideas from them regarding the bindings and headstock. This Forum is the BOMB - such a wealth of knowledge.
     
  5. Macrogats

    Macrogats Friend of Leo's

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    Nice Hs overlay dude. How thick was the piece you put on?
     
  6. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Nice! I couldn't agree more, there's just nothing like this forum...the talent and ingenuity of you all is so inspiring and encouraging.

    Thanks! It's 3/32". Pretty brittle stuff and slightly cupped. I double-stick taped some little 1/8" thick scraps as bearing guides to route the t-rod access, went to pull them off and..."crack". Thankfully, it didn't break apart. The total thickness of the headstock is 5/8"
     
  7. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Downpour this morning. Didn't look like it would ever let up...but as soon as it did

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    The pots are Mojo/CTS "vintage taper". Not sure exactly what that means, other than it's probably good marketing. I guess I bought it. Kept the depth for the pots shallow and free-handed a deeper route to accommodate the switch. Two volume, one tone.

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    What a mess, massive amounts of sawdust on wet concrete.

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    Why not add a bunch of plastic all over the place?

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  8. GotTheSilver

    GotTheSilver Tele-Meister

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    Craig,

    Great thread! I have really been enjoying reading it, and have picked up a few tips along the way.

    Could I ask you a favor? Could you please provide more detail on how you use the hole you drilled in the fretboard to align the FB to the neck for glueing? I get that it is used to keep the FB from moving as you are applying the clamps, but I have tried doing this a couple of times and just can't seem to get it right. Getting the FB properly aligned and having it stay in place while clamping is something I struggle with. I am hoping you won't mind walking me through the process so I can finally get this right!!!

    Thanks in advance!
     
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  9. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Go to around 11:00.. This is how I learned to do it. Works great.

     
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  10. GotTheSilver

    GotTheSilver Tele-Meister

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    I saw this video and tried it twice. Both times I had the same problem. I tap the nail into the neck, cut off the head, then when I press the fretboard down, the nail goes farther into the neck and does not make enough of a dent in the fretboard. Both have been mahogany necks, once with an ebony FB and once with rosewood. I imagine the mahogany is softer, so the nail is just pushed into it, hence my wanting to find out more about how Craig does it with drilling the hole.

    Craig - sorry for hijacking your thread!
     
  11. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Maybe this will help.

    See post 72-74

    http://www.tdpri.com/threads/lets-make-a-neck.755300/page-4
     
  12. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Hey no worries GTS, not hijacking at all! Marty and Richard got ya covered.

    But anyway, here's how I did this one...I knew I'd be using medium wide fretwire, so the width of the holes are covered by the fret. With all fret slots cut, and before putting the radius on, clamped it into position on the neck blank and drilled one hole in a fret slot on the bass side at the heel end and one on the treble side at the nut end. I only drilled through the fretboard and slightly into the neck wood. Then stick a brad in each hole and tap into the neck blank a tiny bit deeper than the drill hole. Unclamp and slip the fretboard off. Then clip the brads about 1/16" proud of the neck blank surface. The clipping deforms the very top of the pins, so file the tops off and shape them so the fretboard will fit snug back over them. Once you're sure you can get the fretboard on and off of the pins, you can wick a tiny amount of water-thin CA glue at the base of the pins so they won't pull out. Radius the fretboard. Then run your fret saw with depth stop through all the slots to match the radius. Stick the board back on the neck and check to make sure the tops of the pins are shallower than your fret slots. If not, file 'em a little lower, test-fit again, and you're good to glue and clamp after fretting the board.

    On a Fender type neck that uses the real narrow wire, I use the two fretboard marker holes at the 12th fret and the one at the 3rd fret to register, but I use crappy old drill bits as the registering pins. My gluing caul has holes in it in those positions. Same thing, clamp up dry, drill holes same size as the pins that will be used, spread the glue on both gluing surfaces, put in position, stick the drillbit pins (the chuck end) in to register, slip the caul over, clamp and let it sit for about half hour. Then take your drill and chuck it onto drilling portion of the bits and a couple spins of the drill will remove them out of the glue.

    I hope this helps!

    EDIT: My bad...12th fret dot markers and in the nut slot on either side of the truss rod, NOT the 3rd fret dot :rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
  13. GotTheSilver

    GotTheSilver Tele-Meister

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  14. GotTheSilver

    GotTheSilver Tele-Meister

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    Thanks, Craig. This is very helpful! I am going to bookmark this post!
     
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  15. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Another rainy day here. It's really wonderful, I haven't seen it this green around here in many moons, and with all the fires earlier in the year, it's really rinsed away all the crap from that.

    Had a dry window of time the other day to break out the ROSS and other implements to true up the back of the neck and get it ready for carving

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    Took the afternoon off work today and moved the carving table out to the front porch. Got the first set of bevels cut using a shintu saw rasp, another four-sided rasp/file, cabinet scraper and a couple drums from the ROSS in-hand. Usually use a spokeshave to remove the bulk, but that shintu thing takes the material off in short order. I like it


    This is a good way to do it. Thanks Marty! (guitarbuildier)

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    Then marked out another set of lines for the final set of bevels and used the cabinet scraper to shave it down and round things a little

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    Then worked on the heel and headstock transitions. Roughed out and ready to sand.

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  16. RiversQC

    RiversQC Tele-Meister

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    That is looking great, man. An LP Jr. is pretty much top of my list once I get the confidence to try a set-neck build. I am really appreciating your posts & progress updates. Beautiful neck.
     
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  17. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Spent a couple hours yesterday finish sanding the neck down to 320 grit. I'm happy with the shape. The template set came with a 1st fret and 17th fret cutout to check the shape. It turned out to be just a slight bit slimmer than the cutouts. Not much to show there.

    Another coupla downpours here, then the wind kicked up and blew things out and we got a little sunshine, so got out the jeweler's saw and started hacking away at this abalone blank. It's a leftover waterslide decal from my amp projects with a little acrylic lacquer shot over it to follow the outline

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    I've only managed to cut this same shape once before, and miraculously made it all the way around without snapping it apart. I managed to get the saw so bound up a few times that I started thinking beginner's luck may not be with me this time. At this point I'm not liking it at all.

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    This was a neck-breaker and caused my eyes to spin around in the sockets. Slow and steady and fingers crossed, I made it all the way around. I can't believe it

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    Brushed a little acetone over it to remove the lacquer and remnants of the decal. Pretty damn rough, but still in one piece

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    Then with some needle files and still holding my breath it would not snap under any kind of pressure, smoothed it out into a fairly decent looking piece.

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    Going to have to do a better job of precisely routing into this headstock than on the kit LP, a painted headstock, which I didn't have to worry about seeing the outline of black filler.

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    Hope you all are having a fantastic weekend!
     
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  18. oldrebel

    oldrebel Friend of Leo's

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    Wow, that looks great!!
     
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  19. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Thank you Sir!

    This morning scribed the outline of the inlay piece onto the headstock with a mechanical pencil. Then took a tiny sable paintbrush and followed the lines with some gold lacquer for more contrast so I could see while routing with the Dremel

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    Had to go slightly wider in a couple places so it would fit. I wish I could've gotten it tighter, but it is what it is. Not bad, just some gaps to fill, but nothing like the gaps I had to fill on the goldtop headstock

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    Glued in place, scraped flush, filled the gaps with ebony dust and CA and sanded down. Not bad for a beginner. Not really sure how I want to finish this. Fingerboard oil? Lacquer? Thin CA? Leave it as-is? I've never finished ebony with anything. Suggestions are most welcome

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    Couldn't resist slipping the neck on the body. It's definitely starting to look like a guitar now

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  20. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I put t-o over ebony on the DPP. First I hosed and wiped it several times with naphtha, and once quickly (and very carefully, because my inlay was plastic) with acetone to try to get as much oil out of the wood as possible. Coupla coats of t-o darkened it up nice, and got it shiny while leaving grain. The goop I used to fill gaps and stick the inlay down (I think I used epoxy and ebony dust) basically became invisible.
     
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