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Looking for Pinecaster staining and (non nitro) finish tutorial- Please Read!

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by flickrare, Apr 15, 2021.

  1. flickrare

    flickrare NEW MEMBER!

    Apr 12, 2021
    So there are a TON of posts on this forum asking how to oil finish a guitar- and how to oil finish a pine guitar or how not to.

    there are lots of replies that are a total of 2 lines- or their are some somewhat complete opinions on what to do- with absolutely zero pictures.

    I'd really like to find a complete tutorial- I've honestly been searching this for a long time because I have no experience with finishing a whole guitar.

    So can anyone link me to a tutorial- maybe with pictures at least of the finished product- on some oil finishes for pine. particularly interested in either staining the wood or blending in some dye with the finishing oil to get some tinting. But I've seen some wild colored barn casters so surely there's some things you can do

    or maybe a youtube video- or a book that would be a good buy- I am learning that finishing is sort of an experimental art when people say "i mixed up some this and that for a light spray instead of wood filler, I know pine drinks up this stuff, so ill check it and see how much is getting absorbed into the wood" it definitely seems like an art with tons of ways about it.

    maybe I got the wrong free body to do an oil finish. why do i wanna do oil? everybody has scared me out of doing a lacquer finish.

    Can anyone help me out!?! I was so set on doing a dye/stain/oil body and I got a free tele pine body- and now I'm seeing nothing on actually finishing a tele with oil, stain, dye that has the results posted with detailed instructions or vido.

    maybe im missing something
  2. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

    Jul 6, 2012
    North of Boston
    The Stew Mac finishing book and the Bob Flexner Wood Finishing 101 are good books on how to apply and prep for finish.

    A tutorial on how to finish a pine body probably doesn't exist in the sense that you are looking for. You'll have to read/watch several threads/vids to get the info you want.

    The best looking finishes come from doing the prep work sand up to 320.
    Raise the grain 1 to 2 times before applying stain.
    A sanding sealer or pre-conditioner applied prior to stain will help keep the color even.
    A sealer over the stain surface will keep the stain from lifting into your clear coats. This is especially true if you use a wipe on finish as your clear coat. In my experience if not sealed the wipe on finish will lift the color just enough to make streaks and blotches.
    Lacquer is probably the easiest way to finish a body. You didn't say how or why they scared you away from doing it that way. It is by far the easiest finish to get the best results in the shortest amount of time but that's just my opinion.

    Good luck!
  3. Jipes

    Jipes Tele-Meister

    Sep 1, 2012
    Mulhouse (France)
  4. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

    Aug 22, 2018
    I have built four guitars out hundred year old ponderosa pine (which might be a different wood that yours). I finished two with gun stock oil (TruOil) because I wanted a semi gloss fairly thin finish to go with the old wood (not trying to relic it, just didn't want a dipped in plastic look). The other two I finished in nitro which is my standard finish for everything I do.

    The wood had holes and knots which I stabilized with some System 3 epoxy, level sanded to bare wood. I did not use any pore fill on either of the finishes, in the case of the TruOil I just applied 25 or 30 very thin coats in the normal fashion, let it cure for a couple of months and buffed. Here is one with the TruOil finish


    For the lacquer ones I sprayed 3 coats of vinyl sealer, then 15 or so of the lacquer, it looks like this


    These are the same board, just different finishes. I personally prefer the lacquered ones but both are acceptable.

    I'm sorry I'm not going to give you a tutorial in how I finish - both were done in the "normal" methods. There were no stains or other base coats used. Remember the cardinal rule of any finishing project - practice on scraps of the same wood with the same products that you plan to use on your guitar. Good luck.
  5. jvin248

    jvin248 Doctor of Teleocity

    Apr 18, 2014
    Lions & Tigers oh Mi !

    Nothing magical about guitar pine from furniture pine.
    Youtube several 'refinishing furniture' channels. 'Woodworker' magazine will have tutorials, maybe even youtube videos.

    I've used minwax golden oak with polyurethane.
    Also wipe-on shellac like french polish:

  6. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Holic

    Dec 17, 2019
    I wish you the best of luck.

    When it comes to pine, I can tell you I trimmed my first house in pine and threw out every door casing I stained before I found a process that didn't look like mud-soaked construction site lumber or something pulled out from under an an oil-leaking car stored for 50 years. Pine is the king of blotchiness and blocking when stained and gives you no warning. What looks like handsome, evenly distributed grain and color in the wood can turn into something very different when the stain or dye hits the wood.

    When I finally learned to apply sanding sealer before staining (this was before wood conditioners) and abandoned penetrating stains for more pigmented wiping stains I was able to achieve a semblance of evenness of color and subdue the wood's characteristic grain figure.

    If you're into the relic/faux antique look, then a lot less work is required.
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