Locking switching jack or other solution for loose amp jack?

[SparkleRedT]

Hello,

This Orange 4x12 cabinet I have keeps popping the cable out when playing loud. I opened it up and tried to bend down the tabs so they exert more pressure on the cable, but it didn't really do much.

I wanted to install Neutrik locking panel jacks, but realized they aren't switching jacks so I was wondering if anyone knew of any locking switching jacks or had any other ideas to fix this?

Thank you

 

[Peegoo]

Are you sure it's not the cable's plug being a little out of spec? Have you tried a different cable?

 

[SparkleRedT]

Hi, thanks for the reply. Yes, I tested it with multiple cables, and it's the same but they are all Neutrik plugs so maybe the Neutrik plug spec is slightly different than some other brands?

I noticed that the Switchcraft mono jack I have installed in a 1x12 cabinet puts a much firmer grip on the plug, but the "plug & play" jacks I installed on a 2x12 are about the same amount of grip (but I don't have this problem with that 2x12).

 

[Gunny]

Sparkle: if it's the mono jack that you're using, why does it matter if it's a switching style jack?

I think the Speakon/Neutrik is the solution but it will be a non-reversable mod to the metal plate where you plug in.

 

[schmee]

Just replace with new Switchraft jacks. It should be fine then.

 

[SparkleRedT]

Will it work as intended if I replace the jacks with Switchcraft shorting jacks? The jacks in there now short the tip and sleeve connection when you plug into the Stereo 16 Ohm side, but the Switchcraft 12A shorting jacks I have on hand only short the tip connection.

 

[Chud]

It really only happens when playing loud? How loud are you playing?

 

[schmee]

Will it work as intended if I replace the jacks with Switchcraft shorting jacks? The jacks in there now short the tip and sleeve connection when you plug into the Stereo 16 Ohm side, but the Switchcraft 12A shorting jacks I have on hand only short the tip connection.View attachment 781660

It's difficult to know exactly what you have in there now, But you think it grounds tip and sleeve?, so it seems to me you just jump a wire from the shorting tang (the one that disconnects from the tip when something is plugged in) to the ground tang. If the jack doesnt ground on a metal chassis then you need to ground the sleeve to chassis ground with a wire if your plastic jack does that. But it appears you have a wire for that....?

 

[Wally]

Side note: I find that cab’s arrangement to be hilarious. Ommv...but Why would anyone put one speaker from each ‘stereo’ side on the other side???? While one is dealing with the Jack/plug problem, imho one should rewire the cab so that the two Right side speakers are both on the right side and the two Left side speakers are both actually on the left side.

what kind of cables do you use and what kind of plugs are on them. Ime, their are made in Asia plugs that do not relate properly to certain jacks and vice versa.

 

[SparkleRedT]

Hey guys, sorry for the delay, finally got back in the studio to address this and wanted to provide an update.

I ended up keeping the current jacks and installed two hooks on either side of the panel. I used the rubber band from a "Bongo Tie" wrapped around the speaker cable to secure it to the hooks.

It does require drilling two small holes, but I don't plan on ever selling this cabinet so don't mind making the modification.

The cable / jack connection is rock solid now. I also did this to two Fender cabinets I have that I installed the "Plug N' Play" switching jack panels on - I think those panels use the same type of jack and were at risk of popping out as well.

Thanks for you help and suggestions!