Locating 2 point Strat bridge

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Steve Holt

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I can't remember exactly how I did mine... Been too long. But I'm pretty sure I started out by tracing the bridge on scrap wood. Find an approximate center point for the pins and mark them. Drill through the scrap (do all of this at the edge so the trem can fit) put everything together and make sure your pins and bridge fit together and make sense with good travel.

Then you can use that scrap piece as your template for the guitar itself. Use a center transfer punch to mark the holes and drill them. As far as distance from the nut I'll let someone else chime in because I usually have to look that up to refresh my memory.

But moral of the story... Drill through scrap before drilling in your body.
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soggybag

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Thanks for the replies. The body is routed. It has two pilot holes but they are in the wrong place for this bridge, they are a little too close together. I feel I need to drill and plug these holes then locate the new holes.

Looks like holes were meant for the type of posts that screw directly into the wood. The posts I have have inserts. If the posts use the same center I could use them to help locate the new posts.
 

soggybag

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Sounds like the studs are positioned 25.25” frame the nut. Which is the same distance to the 6 inline screws. This would make sense you’d figure the 6 screw and two post type bridges would pivot at the same point.
 

telemnemonics

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Plenty of Strat bridges have one U shaped knife contact and one straight knife contact, so the post spacing is not as critical.
Studs that screw into the wood worked great for years, and left more wood.
A good number of bodies break due to the little bit of wood left after drilling the extra big holes for inserts.
Wilkinson makes an example of a bridge that should work with your post spacing.
Start drilling plugging and redrilling and you could end up with a broken body in the one spot that needs to be solid.
 

Steve Holt

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Can you take a couple pictures of your guitar and post them? I'd like to see the pilot holes and then your bridge roughly positioned on the pilot holes as well.
 

soggybag

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Thanks for the help, this forum is the best! Here’s a few pictures.

The body looks like it was drilled for those smaller posts that screw directly into the wood. I’d use those if I had them. The bridge came with threaded inserts. I think there’s enough wood to hold these as long as I don’t split the wood inserting them.

‘you can see the notches in the bridge are off by a small amount from the existing holes. I think these will need to be filled before drilling to keep the bit from drifting. I have a drill press, it I’m not sure if it has the reach to drill these.

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Freeman Keller

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I've never installed a strat style tremolo but according to the StewMac calculator

Distance indicated is from the fretboard edge of the nut to center of forward-most mounting screw or pivot post.

25.250" (± 0.030")
 

Steve Holt

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Eh. Just ship it all to me and I'll get that bridge installed ;)

From looking at the picture your current screw holes are dang close to being good for your bridge but maybe not quite. Is that bridge located close to where you would want it? If so, like I said those holes are dang close.

What I would do is figure out exactly where your new holes need to be and how big. I'm thinking it's possible that the new holes will completely overlap. Did your bridge come with instructions on the size of hole to drill? Im pretty sure with mine i did slightly undersized, so the splines would cut into the wood.

With that being said dont go too tight. I always measure and test in scrap wood for any hole I drill. Drill the hole. Insert the part and see if its too tight or too loose. And think about the load it will be under. The string tension won't be pulling the posts up, they'll be pulling sideways, so they don't have to be wedged in there you can always use a bit of glue too. And I know a good trick to get them out of the body once you get them in if you need to for some reason.
 

telemnemonics

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Hmmm, if your drill press reaches then you needn't plug first.
Drill bits drift when they hit dowels too, but on the drill press you can clamp the body, and use a brad point bit for accurate location without plugging first.

Hard to say if the bridge is centered though, do a straight edge check to confirm where the bridge needs to be centered.
 

soggybag

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Good advice. Looks like my drill press can handle this! I might need a new bit. I’ll get the calipers out. What’s the best way to measure one these inserts? I can get the outside diameter with the calipers. You can probably get a rough idea of the diameter inside the ribs.

I got a black pick guard and wired it up with som lipstick pickups. I think this going to look good.

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Fatcat211

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I recommend test fitting the inserts in a scrap piece of wood. DO NOT hammer them into the holes at all. You will crack that area between the pickup cavity and trem route.
 

soggybag

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The Calipers are calling the inserts 10mm. Trying to measure the diameter inside the splines i get 9.95mm.

I think this is the right size. I used this for a Wilkinson bridge with two posts.

Definitely need to drill a a piece of scrap wood and test fit...
 

Steve Holt

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Cool! Yeah thats kind of the size I figured. I'm giessing you can just obliterate those holes that are already there.

If it were me I'd start with the letter W and see how that works and try thr 25/64 as well and see which i like better before committing to anything.

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soggybag

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I drilled a hole in some MDF with the 10mm bit. The inserts fit exactly. You could pull them out easily.
I’m wondering if it’s worth it to buy slightly smaller bit, drill 10mm use it as is, or drill 10mm then line the inside of the hole with a layer of glue let it dry then press fit the inserts?
 
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